R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Pulleys | Crankshaft, A/C, Idler, Belt Tensioner...

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Old Jun 24, 2020 | 12:24 PM
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Pulleys | Crankshaft, A/C, Idler, Belt Tensioner...

Hello everyone

My R53 is having some issues with noise in the serpentine belt zone.
Also the A/C stopped working long ago, and I realised that the clutch is not engaging, so I bought only this part, not the entire compressor.
I am going to change the crankshaft pulley as well, not sure if necessary, but as you can see in the videos, looks like it hasn't been changed in the 175.000Km (around 100.000Miles) that the car has.
Would you change the belt tensioner pulley as well? The idle one looks fine to me.

https://i.imgur.com/yJ1vLlk.mp4

https://i.imgur.com/cYOyJma.mp4

Also a video with the engine running.

https://i.imgur.com/ACWsTRx.mp4

Not sure how to insert the video in the thread, sorry.

Thank you all in advance!
 

Last edited by Yoong; Jun 24, 2020 at 03:37 PM.
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Old Jun 24, 2020 | 12:30 PM
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In the other hand, does someone know what the hell is this inside the wheels? (R85 S Spoke)


 
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Old Jun 24, 2020 | 01:15 PM
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Those weights are needed to balance out the wheel/tyre combo. They are needed because wheels are not 100% round, but have imbalance. Specialist equipment measures this imbalance and shows where weight is needed. If you don't balance it out, it will shake/resonate
 
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Old Jun 24, 2020 | 03:25 PM
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If your doing the crankshaft pulley I would go ahead and do the belt tensioner and idler pulley.

You might also want to check for oil leakage around your oil filter housing. Mine is a mess so I'll be replacing the oil filter housing gasket and oil cooler gaskets as soon as they arrive from ECS Tuning.
I'm in the process of doing the crankshaft pulley, tensioner, etc myself.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2020 | 09:15 PM
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+1 on the tensioner. I replaced mine recently and I had to put the car into service mode to get the tensioner out. If I'd had the crank pulley off I could have avoided that.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2020 | 06:22 AM
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Thank you all.

Would you change the whole tensioner or just the pulley?

 
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Old Jun 25, 2020 | 07:40 AM
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Personally I would change out the whole tensioner assembly
 
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Old Jun 25, 2020 | 09:16 AM
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Would you change the whole tensioner or just the pulley?
If the tensioner looks good -no cracks, broken bits etc, maybe try just the pulley. At 1/10th the price of a new tensioner, and along with the idler pulley and your crank pulley these should fix the noise. If that is your tensioner in the picture, it's missing the damper, the lack or degradation of which (very common) may also be the source of that noise, and you should replace it as well.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2020 | 03:01 PM
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F.Y.I. Damper is the black tube on the other side of the mounting bracket.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2020 | 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by cooper48
F.Y.I. Damper is the black tube on the other side of the mounting bracket.
Ahh -- see that now, yes. Should be replaced.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2020 | 10:19 AM
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Thank you everyone for the replies.
And no, it is not my belt tensioner, it was just to illustrate.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2020 | 07:12 PM
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Anyone know where to get the tensioner pulley replacement? Can’t seem to find it anywhere.

 
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Old Jul 14, 2020 | 08:15 PM
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the pulley is the same as the idler pulley. I would recommend looking at the damper, and probably replacing it too. Mine was making noise a while back, I thought the damper was fine, but once I got it off, it was clear that it was past done.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2020 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Racingguy04
the pulley is the same as the idler pulley. I would recommend looking at the damper, and probably replacing it too. Mine was making noise a while back, I thought the damper was fine, but once I got it off, it was clear that it was past done.
Don’t mean to hijack. So i can get the idler pulley and Replace the tensioner pulley with it?
 
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Old Jul 14, 2020 | 09:25 PM
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yeah, I'm pretty sure you can. I thought about doing it with my tensioner, but ended up just replacing the whole thing. I'm glad I did, it was 17 years old and the damper had no resistance in it. I got mine (I think it was gates, but it may have been inpa) for $80 from advanced auto parts. my idler pulley cost me in the neighborhood of $40, so not a completely insignificant difference, but for the effort it takes to get to the part, the $40 extra was worth it.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2020 | 01:38 AM
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I agree, my advice: just replace the whole tensioner and the idler pulley. The tensioner cost me about 80 euros, the idler pulley around 15 euros.

be penny-wise and pound-foolish


 
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Old Jul 15, 2020 | 05:12 AM
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[QUOTE=Racingguy04;4544899]yeah, I'm pretty sure you can. I thought about doing it with my tensioner, but ended up just replacing the whole thing. I'm glad I did, it was 17 years old and the damper had no resistance in it. I got mine (I think it was gates, but it may have been inpa) for $80 from advanced auto parts. my idler pulley cost me in the neighborhood of $40, so not a completely insignificant difference, but for the effort it takes to get to the part, the $40 extra was worth it.[/QUOTE

its because i just replaced my damper and added power flex bushings. That’s a PITA and don’t want to repeat the process lol.


 
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Old Jul 15, 2020 | 07:54 AM
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Haha damn! Well in the end it's your call...
 
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Old Jul 17, 2020 | 09:59 PM
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[QUOTE=Serafin;4544932]
Originally Posted by Racingguy04
yeah, I'm pretty sure you can. I thought about doing it with my tensioner, but ended up just replacing the whole thing. I'm glad I did, it was 17 years old and the damper had no resistance in it. I got mine (I think it was gates, but it may have been inpa) for $80 from advanced auto parts. my idler pulley cost me in the neighborhood of $40, so not a completely insignificant difference, but for the effort it takes to get to the part, the $40 extra was worth it.[/QUOTE

its because i just replaced my damper and added power flex bushings. That’s a PITA and don’t want to repeat the process lol.
Haha, I put powerflex bushings on my damper when I replaced the tensioner, it was a pita, and my 17 year old bushings were still fine, so I don't know how necessary that was. The bad news is that the tensioner has to come off to replace the pulley, because the bolt head is between the pulley and the engine. So still gonna be a PITA.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 06:39 AM
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partsgeek.com and rockauto.com are both good MINI parts sources.
 
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