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R53 Street/Track Build - Let the TVS 900 Journey Begin!
TVS 900 & Coolerworx Shifter install over the last few weeks.
Everything went rather smooth. Shifter needed a few adjustments. This certainly completes the driving experience. The TVS 900 is a great upgrade so far and I’m so glad to be done with the M45/Mechanical Water Pump setup. The next issue I need to work out involves the TMAP sensor. Since I’m running a 60mm pulley, boost hits 17.8psi and ends up triggering the CEL displaying code P0108 – Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input. After reviewing the service manual I found that once TMAP to ECM input voltage reaches a threshold of 4.89volts or higher, you hit fuel cut and the CEL is triggered. I then spoke with Jan at RMW discussing two options: I could upgrade the cam which would lower PSI slightly below threshold due to increased airflow or use a split second voltage clamp. I decided to go with the VC3-100 voltage clamp. For those that don’t know, the split second voltage clamp wires into the TMAP sensor wiring and will not allow TMAP to ECM input voltage to exceed 4.80volts (factory setting) thus saving me from fuel cut and CEL’s so I thought...
Split Second Voltage Clamp VC3-100 Install:
I’ve completed the installation and if I shift no later than 6000rpm I won't trigger a CEL. Boost currently reads 16.4psi until I exceed 6000rpm. From 6-7000rpm I get a spike to 17.8psi triggering the CEL. I want to adjust the voltage clamp lower but I'm noticing that its starting to affect my tune as the A/F ratio is leaning out towards the top end. I've had my eye on a GRS front mount intercooler for some time now and spoke with Graham on pricing late last year. I was hesitant to buy one before I went down the TVS route and I'm thinking that with the FMIC installed it could lower boost levels to where I won't trigger the CEL anymore. If I still get a CEL, hopefully small adjustments will be needed on the voltage clamp to get me by until I can go the BVH route. IAT's with the TVS are already far better than the M45 including faster recovery. If I add a FMIC to the equation, temps should be lower with even faster recovery, right? I'm looking to order the GRS FMIC within the next week. If all goes to plan I'll make sure to take temperature readings with the stock IC vs the GRS FMIC and post those results up along with pictures of install etc.
If interested in installing the voltage clamp, you will have to review the service manual for splicing into the correct TMAP sensor wiring. Check out the pictures to see my installation. I wrote what each wire’s function is coming off the TMAP sensor connector in one of the pictures. Below is a link to the product and instructional video. I've heard stories of folks running a 17%+ pulley on the M45 which would trigger code P0108 at times.
Hi , nice build.Maybe I can help you with some info about fault code P0108.Your TMAP sensor can handle a max of 20PSI without fault code.The problem is there is a monitoring condition for max mass air flow value, set at 160kg/h, and your TVS900 produce more than that value at high engine speed.DME activates in this case a fault code and put the engine in Limp mode-engine became really slow on acceleration and less power-.There are two solutions, one to increase the mass air flow value for a higher one, or to do DTC P0108 0ff.Both version means to read the sw, do the right change software values and write back the moded software.I did that for few cars equiped with 19%SC puley and 2%crankshaft pulley, and also for a same build like yours of user "flyingart" user, and solution work great.
In my opinion solution with split second voltage clamp, is not good,because DME will receive wrong values on the whole engine speed range about air intake pressure,and will inject less fuel than need , result lean mixture.
Mounting this GRS intercooler will result cold air than stock one, but on the other hand less boost,and result less torque, because the main values which DME takes into account is the boost values,which affects ignition values, injected fuel amount values.
Thank you for the compliment and info. Interesting to hear your take. I currently run an RMW tune. When I spoke with Jan, my understanding is that there is no way for him to adjust parameters to avoid a P0108 code hence the reason he recommended upgrading the cam or installing a voltage clamp. I'm not sure if it's the software he tunes with or it's not recommended. I have no experience in tuning. I can understand what I'm being told but have no clue when it comes to using software to make the changes myself. I live in New Hampshire, U.S. so if it is recommended I go to a different tuner I'll consider that. I would personally love a dyno tune vs a flash tune. The flash tune Jan sent me is off of the same build I have with a cam installed. He had to send me a modified version of that tune with more fuel on top end since I'm not running a cam. Maybe other knowledgeable folks can weigh in on this as well?
I have a forged shortblock, RMW head, grand am Cam and shorty header on my car. I ran the Jan tune for over a year and it was OK. The gentleman that posted to your comment Adrian recently returned my car and it is night and day BETTER. The car pulls stronger and idles smoother. Even my wife that just rides in it said "why didn't it run like this the whole time?' My suggestion would be to let Adrian Nastase have a look. He is very responsive and will walk you through the steps.
Ill keep Adrian in mind. I'm waiting to hear back from RMW on their FMIC/Rad kit status. Hoping to order that setup to take care of cooling entirely. Once I sort out those details Ill post an update. Thanks!
Very slick setup. +1 on "adriancl" tunes. Adrian, who lives in Romania, provided me (2004 MC40) with a retuned MS5150 ECU based on my mods (15% pulley, 380cc injectors, one-ball exhaust) and I couldn't be happier with the increase in performance (dyno-measured 18hp bump).
I have a forged shortblock, RMW head, grand am Cam and shorty header on my car. I ran the Jan tune for over a year and it was OK. The gentleman that posted to your comment Adrian recently returned my car and it is night and day BETTER. The car pulls stronger and idles smoother. Even my wife that just rides in it said "why didn't it run like this the whole time?' My suggestion would be to let Adrian Nastase have a look. He is very responsive and will walk you through the steps.
Joshua, what did Adrian use to tune your car? I think Jan uses Link.
Trust me I understand that route. I have a ported M45 and 17% and have tried the stock IC with the JCW diverter, the stock IC with the DDM diverter, a GRS Mototsport IC, and just recently have gotten a GP IC with a DDM diverter. The GP w/DDM and the GRS Motorsport are identical in peak boost and IAT's.
Adrian was able to tune my stock ECU with with MPPS and a 17.00 cable. It helps to have a AFR like the Innovate set up I have.
I will keep Adrian in mind for sure. Want to sort out the hardware bits first. I did consider a cam but I decided to run the stock long block until it blows up and focus on taking care of cooling issues in the mean time (fmic, rad, oil). Once the long block is shot Ill pick up a built long block from RMW along with a Link setup and potentially a flex fuel setup for E-85 as well.
Ordered the GRS FMIC from the UK. It should be here second half of July. For now, I'll install a catch can and post TMIC/FMIC results when everything arrives.
Ordered the GRS FMIC from the UK. It should be here second half of July. For now, I'll install a catch can and post TMIC/FMIC results when everything arrives.
How has that worked out for you? Did you get it on yet?
Update. Graham at GRS in the UK is still awaiting the intercooler core to arrive before beginning fab. Hopefully there will be an update soon for completing fab and shipment. I did go to a track day at Canaan Motor Club, NH. Fun time but was eye opening engine/brakes wise. Ambient temps were around 88F, not sure about humidity. During a 20 minutes session my IAT's were 160F with quick recovery using the stock TMIC. I'm eager to see how that will change with the GRS FMIC. I'm pretty sure an oil cooler is necessary moving forward as my oil temps exceeded 250F and coolant temps remain steady at roughly 210F. I'm budgeting out an oil cooler kit, CSF radiator and possible thermostat swap now. I also have a S4S brake cooling kit collecting dust in the garage that I plan to install as well. I'm content with current hp/tq so only concerns are temperature control/reliability moving forward.
how did you check your oil temp? these cars have no oil temp sender, even chrono pack, it's a fake/calculated reading.
I try to stay under 150 on track, I use methanol to control the temp creep I have not had to add any additional engine cooling, but I do have giant brake ducts or my pad life is terrible
how did you check your oil temp? these cars have no oil temp sender, even chrono pack, it's a fake/calculated reading.
I try to stay under 150 on track, I use methanol to control the temp creep I have not had to add any additional engine cooling, but I do have giant brake ducts or my pad life is terrible
on my mc40 the sensor is the drain plug. I see 120c most days
I will keep Adrian in mind for sure. Want to sort out the hardware bits first. I did consider a cam but I decided to run the stock long block until it blows up and focus on taking care of cooling issues in the mean time (fmic, rad, oil). Once the long block is shot Ill pick up a built long block from RMW along with a Link setup and potentially a flex fuel setup for E-85 as well.
how did you check your oil temp? these cars have no oil temp sender, even chrono pack, it's a fake/calculated reading.
I try to stay under 150 on track, I use methanol to control the temp creep I have not had to add any additional engine cooling, but I do have giant brake ducts or my pad life is terrible
I use Innovate Motorsport gauges. One is Oil Temp/PSI (far left on dash in other pics). Sensor runs to the drain plug. I have the warning light triggered at 250F. The warning light was going crazy halfway into a session. Once I'm on the cool down lap and manually turn on the high speed radiator fan the temp drops quickly before I enter the pits. This tells me that temps can't be that far above 250F. The gauge only displays a value for PSI not temp. The temp is measured by gauge lighting that I input values in via laptop. I run Liqui Moly 5w-40 Molygen Full Synthetic which I believe can handle higher temperatures but still trying to find any data that explains at what temperature the oil breaks down.
I considered methanol but I'd rather use the simpler front mount option which will deliver cooler air repeatedly without failure or needing refills.
my TVS900 runs a little over 15 degrees cooler than the stock Supercharger.
I'm planning another track day at the same location in August. If I can install the FMIC before then I'll share IAT's from that event. I plan to take a video as well. My gopro is attached to the roll bar so you can see IAT's on the UltraGauge throughout the session.
15 degrees is better than nothing, adding a cam helps the same way
I get a 75 degree drop with methanol, on the track you are going to pull timing without extra, it'll be interesting to see what kind of temps the front mount gets on track. I data log IATs, meth on vs off, ignore the spikes it's canbus conversion errors
