It's been a few years since I sold my R53. Just bought a 2010 Clubman S that's intended for my kid to drive. Couldn't resist - paid $1600 for a super clean car, 63,000 miles. No start, with a broken crossover pipe. It's a gamble, but I'm willing to tear it apart and fix things most owners wouldn't be willing to pay a shop to do.

Popped the valve cover off to see how bad it was and was shocked to find nothing wrong - chain and guides look good - cams and followers look good. No water in the oil. Will do a compression test and leak down test in the next couple of days and then decide if the head has to come off.

Happy to have suggestions, but think the basic compression / spark / fuel tests need to be done first.

Since this engine is new to me, I am happy to hear of any must-do sort of jobs while I am working on it and testing it.

 

That's funny David....I haven't been on here in years as well but still have my R50 turned R53 track car. Just bought a 2008 BRG clubman S for $1750 with a blown turbo.... I think you are on the right track, mostly the fuel issues makes them no start. You didn't say, but I am assuming it turns over(starter engages)? CAS causing no start/no turnover have been a 10-15% item for these as well. Welcome back to both of us!

 

That was quick ... first serious test was compression. Readings were 70 psi 75 psi 30 psi 25 psi ... so, off with it’s head!!

yes, engine cranks under battery power.

 

I was in your shoes a month ago with an 09 Clubman S. Mine was burned exhaust valves. If you’ve got bad compression all round I’m wondering if you’ve got bent valves from a skipped timing chain?

 

Thanks. Guess it will be more obvious once the head is off. Will definitely check timing carefully and replace the chain and guides while I'm doing this. The part I could see with the valve cover removed looked ok.

Could use suggestions on what other parts are "low hanging fruit" during the head replacement. Since it has a cracked crossover pipe, guess water pump and thermostat should be on the list. Maybe some of the rubber hoses, too.

What about the vacuum pump? And The HPFP is pricey - what's the feeling about replacing it at 61,000 miles?

 

when I bought my R56 with a blown crossover water pipe, my compression was around 160, 90, 60, 60... the timing was on point even after replacement still similar numbers. I took the head off and started taking the valves to examine. The were straight!!! I then lapped the valves and did a compression test and the numbers were much higher but not consistent across the board. long story short, I noticed the valve seats had bent out of shape and where leaking air. I put another head in the meantime to get the car on the road. after 1700 miles, the water pump started leaking lol....it back on the stands now.

 

Thanks for the heads up. I Will inspect the guides (and the rest of the head) carefully.

 

Spent two evenings and today pulling the head off. Looks like might have some bent valves. The crossover pipe was full of brown goo - I assume that is one of those quick fix additives for coolant leaks. This car should be the poster child to avoid that krap. Whether or not it solved the leak, it also almost completely blocked the water pump. Pictures attached.

Have a question, as I am a little confused. The crank is locked with the special tool, and all the pistons are at mid stroke. I though it locked them at TDC (#1 cylinder up). Does anyone know this for sure? The intake and exhaust cams were correctly oriented in the up position, and the cam position fit easily into place. I'm wondering if someone mis-set the timing or the crank gear slipped...

 

Meant to add - Decided to add a new radiator to the shopping list as I assume it will be full of that sealant krap also. What else is likely to be plugged up? I was already intending to replace the thermostat housing, water pump and crossover pipe. Heater core? Is that a PITA on these cars?

 

The orientation of the pistons in the block with the locking pin in the flywheel is correct in your pix.

 

Wow the build up in that water pipe, yikes.

 

Here's the water pump. Even more plugged up than that crossover pipe. The belt tension arm pulley looked pretty beat up. Suspect the water pump stopped spinning and maybe caused the timing to slip. Even if it was spinning, it wasn't pumping much water filled up with the sealant krap. Anyway, going to drop the head off to a machine shop to get it pressure tested, valve job done, valve guides checked. Spent a couple of late evenings making shopping lists and tracking down parts - things should be on their way and I will start reassembly this weekend or early next week.

I checked the head and block with a straight edge and they both seem fine. I couldn't get my finest feeler gage under the straightedge, so think there was no warping. Cleaned up the gasket surfaces with a superfine gray 3M pad and brake cleaner.

 

That seal stuff does more harm then good some times. I see its got the older earlier designed plastic housing pump. They tend to crack. Mine did on my r56. New ones are metal

Thanks for the pictures, they tell the story. Good luck on the fixes.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...8-no-heat.html

 

Just got off the phone with the head shop. Valves are all salvageable. They think the exhaust guides should be replaced, and its a little warped, which they can easily machine out, so the machining is underway and I should have the head back in about a week. Was remarkably hard to find the ARP head studs - I like them - happy that I found some even though the price is stupid $$$ - they were out of stock almost everywhere.

 

Thats good. Yes lots of places are out. We have them on order for stock. Hopefully soon to get them. We carry some of the other ARP stuff if you need it. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-arp-parts/v-mini/
About the best fasteners you can buy.

 

Got a bit of a dilemma now. I purchased a Rein Turbo Oil Feed Pipe, and it looks like the bends were clearly not mandrel bent!!. Noticeable worse than the old MINI part (which needs to be replaced - the banjo end is a bit wobbly already). Anyway, on the original MINI part, the tube outer diameter is 0.318 inches, the minimum OD at the bend is 0.285 . On the Rein part, the tubing outer diameter is 0.315 inches, but in the bend it is down to 0.240 inches.

I estimated the inside diameter is 0.200" - which means it is closed up about 16% on the MINI part. On the Rein part, it is reduced about 37%. This worries me. Are the MINI parts better? Did I just get a bad one?

 

That is why it is better to replace it with detroit tuning oil feed line. this one will eventually leak.

 

Have you actually used the DT tuned product? For how long?

I saw it, but it seemed to be a banjo to flare adapter on each end, and a flare-flare hose, which introduces another joint on each end. Clearly a nice metal to metal joint, but still, I would have preferred a similar design without the extra joints...

 

on every engine repair or swap, i use the product. as a matter of fact, I use the cheaper ebay version of it. It works great. the issue with mini design is that it moves and with time, the rubber washer wears out and starts leaking. at the end of the day, it is your call, but from my personal experience, it is a must replacement.

 

Thanks. It’s really helpful to hear these things. My previous mini was a R53 so care and feeding of the turbo is all new to me

 

We have the kit with the upgraded feed line here, this is the one i like. We had it for a while. Thats next on the list for my R58.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...57534454ktkt3/

 

We created and designed our Turbo oil feed line to work problem-free for many years. many companies have copied ours, but ours is still the best! have had had our test line on a car for over 100K on the Orginal turbo with zero issues. the engine pumps a large amount of oil to many places, at a psi needed to supply all of the parts. the turbo has very small clearances and your feeding a 1/4 tube at 16-80 psi. the oil actually backs up in the tube cause it can not pass through the turbo fast enough. so our line still feed the turbo more oil than it needs and doesn't melt over time causing a dangerous leak like the OEM. we also are very careful about the length and fittings to keep it from rubbing on things and causing other issues. some of the lines on the market have the wrong length and fittings.yes I can make a cheaper part buy say using 2 straight or 90 de fittings, but the 45 deg fitting works better. so that is what is needed.

Chad
Detroit Tuned
the creator of the line.

 

I am in the same boat as you. I bought a 2009 clubman s with no start. Turned out to be head gasket. Pulled off the head and what done find? Block sealant, lots of it everywhere. The whole water jacket was full of it minus just a small path for the coolant flowing. Crossover tube, full.. waterpump, almost locked. Radiator, 80% plugged... replaced all the hoses, the radiator, the water pump, and clean the block out and had the head dipped and checked... all good. Needless to say I need to find a different engine shop... replaced the head gasket put all back together and started right up ran fine. For 2 days then blown head gasket again. Pulled it off to find 2 to 3 burnt through. Had the head examined again by original shop, they said all good, all within specs. Took to second shop for second opinion, and they found the head warped .006... head remachined, and block DIY decked, back together runs like a champ again. Turns off first shop used feeler gauge method to check the head, second shop uses CMM machine to measure. Head was bad but feeler gauge didnt pickup how bad. Just be careful with the measurements or you'll be back in the same boat. Only thing that I am glad I did was by the parts from FCM euro, all parts come with lifetime warranty... gaskets, bolts, seals, oil, filter... everything... so the second time doing it was free...

 

any thoughts on what causes this sludge?

 

I've been making good progress in the evenings. Got the head back from the machine shop. Cleaned up the top of the block with a sheet of SiC paper on a glass "sanding block". It was flatter than I could test - couldn't get my finest feeler gage (I even bought a new set that went down to 0.0008") under the straight edge. So, should be good for flatness. Installed my ARP studs, new gasket, heads on, cams are on. Had to wait for the weird oil seal at the end of the intake cam. The parts diagram shows one, but there are two seals. Wanted to replace them while it was all apart...

1. I couldn't find the torque spec for the "cam caps" anywhere. Does anyone know? One website said 10 Nm. Seems about right...

2. Was toying with the idea of replacing the VANOS sprocket. Do people usually replace the sprockets when doing timing chain and/or head rebuild? The exhaust sprocket (the simple one) looks fine. Teeth are symmetric, no weird wear or marks.

3. Finally, are these the latest torque specs for the three sprockets? Someone wrote online that they have changed since the car was released and the bentley seems to have the original specs. I don't have access to any official service manuals...

Damper Hub to Crankshaft - Use New Fastener
Stage 1 = 37 ft-lbs
Stage 2 = additional 180deg of rotation

Exhaust Sprocket to Camshaft [N14] (M10x30mm) - Use New Fastener
Stage 1 = 15 ft-lbs
State 2 = additional 90deg of rotation

VANOS Unit to Intake Camshaft [N14] - Use New Fastener
Stage 1 = 15 ft-lbs
Stage 2 = additional 180deg of rotation