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Considering a Mini Cooper S MT ? what to choose for reliability?
General MINI TalkShared experiences, motoring minutes, and other general MINI-related discussion that applies to all MINIs, regardless of model, year or trim.
Considering a Mini Cooper S MT — what to choose for reliability?
I've been a Mini fan for years and I'm considering a Cooper S (Manual) for daily driving/fun runs on weekend. Given that I live in an apartment and don't have access to a garage for handling my own maintenance, reliability is of reasonable concern to me. After a bunch of reading both here and in the r/Mini sub, it seems like my best bang for the buck would be either:
2005 - 2006 R53
2012 - 2013 R56
What am I missing? Am I utterly kidding myself by using "Mini" and "reliability" in the same sentence? Should I consider a newer F model?
Warranties for older cars are generally pretty expensive and aren't really warranties as much as "insurance plans." Do you mind sharing who/where you found a warranty with that you feel is particularly beneficial?
I bought my car at Carmax and opted for the warranty they offered. It was about $2,000, and added into the loan, so rather painless. They seem to often have Minis for sale, and will ship them to your local dealer, if you find one you like, out of state.
I bought my car at Carmax and opted for the warranty they offered. It was about $2,000, and added into the loan, so rather painless. They seem to often have Minis for sale, and will ship them to your local dealer, if you find one you like, out of state.
You and I apparently have rather different pain thresholds, especially on a vehicle that should cost ~$5k (for an R53) or ~$10k-ish (for an R56).
p.s. this Mini is NOT a Cooper . . . which was produced (option package) 61 - 71 .....
Fair. But given that I expressly called out the model numbers and the years, I think I was pretty clear on what I'm considering. Thanks for the education
We have a 2012 MCS with AT since new. Now at about 70k miles. These cars are stupid expensive to maintain and repair. For example you don't take it jiffy lube for an oil change (at least I don't). We've been pretty lucky, had several expensive repairs done under the original factory warranty. Seems they can be somewhat reliable if the maintenance is kept up. Sooo, seeing you're looking at a used MINI (Capt I got that right?), be sure to get all the maintenance records.
Was in your boat last year; opted for a 03 MCS with less than 100k, purchase for $4300. Some stuff I had done by a pro (clutch/valve cover gasket) for just above $2k. I've done other stuff myself (exhaust, oil, filters, crank pulley; window regulator; axle). I just like Mini Coopers though. I had to think about do I want full insurance coverage for this vehicle that should any small fender bender will most likely be totaled because the price of repair at a shop is not cost-beneficial to the insurance company. (Still thinking) Currently just basic coverage;. Its my DD to keep miles off my 2018 Ram 2500. I just like driving my Mini; poor man's Porsche I like to say.
We have a 2012 MCS with AT since new. Now at about 70k miles. These cars are stupid expensive to maintain and repair. For example you don't take it jiffy lube for an oil change (at least I don't). We've been pretty lucky, had several expensive repairs done under the original factory warranty. Seems they can be somewhat reliable if the maintenance is kept up. Sooo, seeing you're looking at a used MINI (Capt I got that right?), be sure to get all the maintenance records.
It's statements like this that make me questions everything. I would LOVE to daily a MINI (eh?) but "stupid expensive to maintain and repair" are not words that I enjoy with my vehicle ownership.
Was in your boat last year; opted for a 03 MCS with less than 100k, purchase for $4300. Some stuff I had done by a pro (clutch/valve cover gasket) for just above $2k. I've done other stuff myself (exhaust, oil, filters, crank pulley; window regulator; axle). I just like Mini Coopers though. I had to think about do I want full insurance coverage for this vehicle that should any small fender bender will most likely be totaled because the price of repair at a shop is not cost-beneficial to the insurance company. (Still thinking) Currently just basic coverage;. Its my DD to keep miles off my 2018 Ram 2500. I just like driving my Mini; poor man's Porsche I like to say.
How's it held up since? And interesting thought on the insurance. I'll have to keep that in mind.
Why's that? (Not arguing; genuinely curious as the reasoning to see how it aligns to my thinking.)
The R56 still has some spriteness to it, without being old like the R53 models. And the 2013 model is the last year of the R56, and will have the better configuration of the N18 engine. Should give you at least a few more years of trouble free motoring, as long as you get one that was maintained well, and you keep up with the maintenance.
It has held up pretty well. Are there things still to do? Sure, but I have learned to wrench the "replace stuff" things like the ones I listed. The only BIG thing left is the supercharger service and I'll tackle that this spring/summer on my own. Mini Tech wanted $2k to do that job and I'd rather blow the thing up and buy another one for that price. LOL! You can find the first generation MCS for under $5k all day long so it doesn't make sense to pay that kind of money in my opinion. No other car quite feels the same driving in my opinion - but I haven't driven a Porsche etc. Staying on this site's marketplace and craigslist you can save $ and keep it rolling. Honestly the car feels awesome for a little 4 banger - I could always WANT more power.
BTW, I am NO MECHANIC - but there are enough YouTube videos and advice on this site to get you through most things. I've even thought of renting me a warehouse and buying up GEN 1 Mini Coopers for future fix/sale. No market right now, but you never know. I'm not a fan of the Gen 2 (N14 engine issues), and although the R56 has the better engine/power I like the looks of the Gen 1 better. Its a matter of preference and price.
Much like kkcshipp, I was in your boat a little over a year ago. I wound up with an 06 R53, about 72k, for $4900. I too took it straight to an independent Mini shop, and had them do a lot of the major needs that I didn't have the time to fool with, including clutch replacement, lower control arm bushings, and lots of little seals/leaks/etc that were easy "while-you-have-it-apart" fixes. I have garage space and do most of my own wrenching, so your situation differs a little. I would suggest you start researching to locate a good independent shop with Mini experience, then go meet with them and check out the shop, since you aren't going to be able to do much of your own work. I don't know how your apartment complex is, but back when I was living in apartments, I could get away with doing oil changes, and some basic one-day jobs in my parking lot.
I'd also suggest you drive both; you'll find they are VERY different cars. I wasn't going to be happy with the more refined ride of the R56. I like the rawness of the first gen cars. I think there's at least some value in sticking to 05-06, but you'll need to really research the specific car you are looking at, and identify it's particular issues/needs/weaknesses to be addressed.
As far as reliability is concerned, my car has run like a champ. I've done some great road trips; it's a blast to drive in the twisties, and was an easy drive from Tacoma to Boise on I90. Mostly it does lots of in and around town driving, with some daily hard-core interchange rallies. :D
I'm extremely happy with my R53, and would do it again in a heartbeat. Do your research, take your time. Good deals are out there.
Much like kkcshipp, I was in your boat a little over a year ago. I wound up with an 06 R53, about 72k, for $4900. I too took it straight to an independent Mini shop, and had them do a lot of the major needs that I didn't have the time to fool with, including clutch replacement, lower control arm bushings, and lots of little seals/leaks/etc that were easy "while-you-have-it-apart" fixes. I have garage space and do most of my own wrenching, so your situation differs a little. I would suggest you start researching to locate a good independent shop with Mini experience, then go meet with them and check out the shop, since you aren't going to be able to do much of your own work. I don't know how your apartment complex is, but back when I was living in apartments, I could get away with doing oil changes, and some basic one-day jobs in my parking lot.
I'd also suggest you drive both; you'll find they are VERY different cars. I wasn't going to be happy with the more refined ride of the R56. I like the rawness of the first gen cars. I think there's at least some value in sticking to 05-06, but you'll need to really research the specific car you are looking at, and identify it's particular issues/needs/weaknesses to be addressed.
As far as reliability is concerned, my car has run like a champ. I've done some great road trips; it's a blast to drive in the twisties, and was an easy drive from Tacoma to Boise on I90. Mostly it does lots of in and around town driving, with some daily hard-core interchange rallies. :D
I'm extremely happy with my R53, and would do it again in a heartbeat. Do your research, take your time. Good deals are out there.
Thanks, this is super helpful. What kind of maintenance did you consider "must do" upon purchase? Was the clutch notably bad, or did you do it simply as a "refresher" on a new-to-you vehicle?
Thanks, this is super helpful. What kind of maintenance did you consider "must do" upon purchase? Was the clutch notably bad, or did you do it simply as a "refresher" on a new-to-you vehicle?
The clutch wasn't failing, but I wasn't sure how long to trust it. I budgeted for some major repairs as part of my total purchase cost, and the pre-purchase inspection (from the local MINI dealer, who documented over $6000 in suggested repairs ) yielded that as a need. I probably could have gotten away with driving it for quite a while, but I wanted to make some mods along the way, and had the funds set aside. I can't remember all of the other changes, the biggest other one was the lower control arm bushings. Again, not a failure, but a wear item that I knew was a frequent repair, and an opportunity to upgrade to poly bushings to resolve a known weak spot. My independent shop preferred to pull the engine and transmission as a unit to do the clutch swap, rather than just dropping the transmission (multiple sources have told me that it wasn't that much of a time difference, so I didn't argue). Since they had the engine out, it gave access to a lot of "while-you're-at-it" jobs, replacing various seals, SC rebuild, etc. Not things that were immediately failing, but made sense to do while I had it torn down that far, and saving me from having to do it myself later.
I'll add to Husky44 because a Mini Shop close to me did the same. I was pretty picky about the vehicle I bought. Was looking for an 05/06 but all of them I saw were just beat up; with no sort of maintenance history and I could "feel" the issues as well as see the leaks. I bought my03 because I could see/validate maintenance and see what the previous owner (PO) had added in aftermarkets. I assumed risk like Husky44 and new I'd get the clutch replaced because I was told at 93k miles it was not replaced since new. The other stuff I have a long-term plan to fix (bushings, supercharger service). I just wanted to make sure the other stuff was squared away. Michaelo make a point, if you want a car/lease payment but for me that was not an option because the Mini Cooper of Louisville closed last year so I'd have to drive to Cincinnati or Nashville and "that dog don't hunt."
What am I missing? Am I utterly kidding myself by using "Mini" and "reliability" in the same sentence?
Yes.
It doesn't matter how well taken care of the car may be, if the OEM parts failures are the issue, they will keep failing. I'm speaking from my R53 experience. 2006 R53 with 59,000 miles when I bought it with good service history. I have spent probably $6,000ish on the car in 5 years for maintenance and repairing bad factory components. Aside from a flat rate clutch job at Helix (bad throw out bearing, they fail, clutch was fine) that I declined to do myself, that is all parts cost with my own labor. I have also not replaced any of these parts with factory to avoid the same failures again, and again, and again. It's a fun car to drive but they are terribly designed with many inadequate components and are not even close to what I would consider reliable.
In that same time span I have spent $1,000ish to keep my 1999 F250 with 160,000+ miles on the road. Same deal, almost all my own labor. They see close to equal yearly mileage.
It doesn't matter how well taken care of the car may be, if the OEM parts failures are the issue, they will keep failing. I'm speaking from my R53 experience. 2006 R53 with 59,000 miles when I bought it with good service history. I have spent probably $6,000ish on the car in 5 years for maintenance and repairing bad factory components. Aside from a flat rate clutch job at Helix (bad throw out bearing, they fail, clutch was fine) that I declined to do myself, that is all parts cost with my own labor. I have also not replaced any of these parts with factory to avoid the same failures again, and again, and again. It's a fun car to drive but they are terribly designed with many inadequate components and are not even close to what I would consider reliable.
In that same time span I have spent $1,000ish to keep my 1999 F250 with 160,000+ miles on the road. Same deal, almost all my own labor. They see close to equal yearly mileage.
Are the 3rd gen Minis any more reliable than the previous 2 gens?
) yielded that as a need. I probably could have gotten away with driving it for quite a while, but I wanted to make some mods along the way, and had the funds set aside. I can't remember all of the other changes, the biggest other one was the lower control arm bushings. Again, not a failure, but a wear item that I knew was a frequent repair, and an opportunity to upgrade to poly bushings to resolve a known weak spot. My independent shop preferred to pull the engine and transmission as a unit to do the clutch swap, rather than just dropping the transmission (multiple sources have told me that it wasn't that much of a time difference, so I didn't argue). Since they had the engine out, it gave access to a lot of "while-you're-at-it" jobs, replacing various seals, SC rebuild, etc. Not things that were immediately failing, but made sense to do while I had it torn down that far, and saving me from having to do it myself later.
