R50/53 List of Recommended Mods?
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2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 117
Likes: 25
From: Austin, TX
List of Recommended Mods?
Gooooood morning NAM!
First off, sorry if this has been covered.
I was wondering if there was a recommended list of mods out there in order to safely get the engine to 250+ HP. I'm sure this is common knowledge to a lot of car enthusiasts/mechanics, but being a DIYer a lot of this is lost to me. I started wondering about this when I was going down a rabbit hole around a TVS900, that devolved into drooling over RMW's turbo R53.
People were talking about compression ratios, doing an induction change, bigger injectors, big valve head, camshaft, etc. Someone else had mentioned (forget where) that they had already modded their engine with a ton of reliability mods but hadn't actually done any power mods yet, but their R53 could handle whatever they wanted to put on it. RMW also looks to have built a ton of the engine themselves to handle the amount of power, which I'm sure comes with time and experience. Hell, even before when I was swapping out my clutch and flywheel I was thinking about a new LSD to which everyone said the money would be better spent elsewhere.
I've done the simple things like a CAI, and have plans to do a header and exhaust but I'm not too sure where to go next and was wondering if there was a comprehensive list of recommended mods/stages in preparation for increasing amounts of HP as I continue to work on the car (and plan on keeping it for a long time).
First off, sorry if this has been covered.
I was wondering if there was a recommended list of mods out there in order to safely get the engine to 250+ HP. I'm sure this is common knowledge to a lot of car enthusiasts/mechanics, but being a DIYer a lot of this is lost to me. I started wondering about this when I was going down a rabbit hole around a TVS900, that devolved into drooling over RMW's turbo R53.
People were talking about compression ratios, doing an induction change, bigger injectors, big valve head, camshaft, etc. Someone else had mentioned (forget where) that they had already modded their engine with a ton of reliability mods but hadn't actually done any power mods yet, but their R53 could handle whatever they wanted to put on it. RMW also looks to have built a ton of the engine themselves to handle the amount of power, which I'm sure comes with time and experience. Hell, even before when I was swapping out my clutch and flywheel I was thinking about a new LSD to which everyone said the money would be better spent elsewhere.
I've done the simple things like a CAI, and have plans to do a header and exhaust but I'm not too sure where to go next and was wondering if there was a comprehensive list of recommended mods/stages in preparation for increasing amounts of HP as I continue to work on the car (and plan on keeping it for a long time).
Popular Reply
Oct 24, 2019, 03:27 PM
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,607
Likes: 316
From: Arnold, MO.
I'll start with this...
This only makes sense if you already have the factory LSD and were planning an upgrade.
The factory LSD is very capable, and an upgrade is only needed in full race and big (over 400 whp) HP applications
But, in general an LSD is a good option for any Mini over 180-190 WHP, it simply makes the car more fun and responsive to drive, and for anything over 200 WHP, it's almost a must if you want to be able to use the power.
Here are the "basics" and some "general" power figures.
210-215 WHP can be achieved with the "basics", Exhaust (including Header), Cam, Pulley, Tune, 380cc injectors.
+10-15 WHP with W/M and proper tune, or 450cc (or larger) injectors, E85 and tune.
This list of Mods is a lot of fun and very surprising in a Mini
Once you've done all of the "basics", anything over that will "Require" a BVH.
No matter what you add to the above list. The stock or JCW head will simply bottleneck your power possibilities.
Then there's the "Big HP" mods.
230-245 WHP with the addition of a BVH and 450 or larger injectors to the "basics"
+10-15 WHP with W/M and proper tune, or 650cc (or larger) injectors, E85 and tune.
All of the above Mods can be, and usually are, very reliable and should not effect your daily driveability, driving comfort level or the longevity of your engine, with a decent "normal" maintenance schedule.
(of course taking into account any change in driving habit from the extra power)
For anything more, a change in induction and/or the addition of nitrous would be needed.
An S/C upgrade added to the above "Big HP" mods, should get you between 275-310 depending on your choice of S/C, W/M or E85 tune. And still shouldn't effect your driveability, engine dependability, or driving comfort level that much.
Then there's a turbo conversion.
The power levels should and can begin in the upper areas of the above S/C upgrade levels, (290-300 WHP) with the stock block. As long as you keep your boost levels at 19-20 psi or under. Any more boost than that, will require internals and additional block work to keep it reliable.
(All of the above Mods are on a well taken care of, stock bottom end)
But if you want more....
On avg. A fully built motor, capable of handling 22+ psi should put you in the 330+ WHP range, depending on boost levels. (We've seen 28-30 psi achieve 450-500 WHP)
Also, once you get over 325-350 WHP, there are drivetrain and traction concerns to add to the mix, along with those subsequent costs. (My car, with about 330 WHP, on a cool day and 22 psi, will simply have no traction at all in 2nd gear above 5000 RPM, on good 215/45/17 street tires)
While very appealing, a turbo conversion, while still very drivable, is not cheap and will also change your driving comfort level some as well, because of what is required in the engine compartment to get everything to fit. (mostly the removal of the plastic cowling between the exhaust manifold and the firewall, which routes and controls your cabin ventilation) Not to mention your own comfort level as to how hard you drive the car, knowing how much money and effort has been put into such a change, including a more diligent maintenance schedule.
It really depends on what you want.
A good canyon/Dragon carver would be 215-220 WHP and Supercharged
A decent "Mexican" street car would be 225-250 WHP, let you hold your own with similar vehicle types, and surprise many people. Plus be very reliable and basically trouble free. In essence, you can thrash it and not be too concerned.
300+ WHP will let you hold your own against stock and mildly modified S/C V-8's, as long as your not running from a stop. But be costly and require extra care and concern with maintenance and driving habits.
As Way alluded to, start with the "basics" then let your sensibilities and wallet guide you from there, definitely don't go crazy without even trying these Mods first.
I've definitely had more fun in a 225 WHP Mini, than in a 300+ HP Mustang.
Hope this helps to put things in perspective some.
The factory LSD is very capable, and an upgrade is only needed in full race and big (over 400 whp) HP applications
But, in general an LSD is a good option for any Mini over 180-190 WHP, it simply makes the car more fun and responsive to drive, and for anything over 200 WHP, it's almost a must if you want to be able to use the power.
Here are the "basics" and some "general" power figures.
210-215 WHP can be achieved with the "basics", Exhaust (including Header), Cam, Pulley, Tune, 380cc injectors.
+10-15 WHP with W/M and proper tune, or 450cc (or larger) injectors, E85 and tune.
This list of Mods is a lot of fun and very surprising in a Mini
Once you've done all of the "basics", anything over that will "Require" a BVH.
No matter what you add to the above list. The stock or JCW head will simply bottleneck your power possibilities.
Then there's the "Big HP" mods.
230-245 WHP with the addition of a BVH and 450 or larger injectors to the "basics"
+10-15 WHP with W/M and proper tune, or 650cc (or larger) injectors, E85 and tune.
All of the above Mods can be, and usually are, very reliable and should not effect your daily driveability, driving comfort level or the longevity of your engine, with a decent "normal" maintenance schedule.
(of course taking into account any change in driving habit from the extra power)
For anything more, a change in induction and/or the addition of nitrous would be needed.
An S/C upgrade added to the above "Big HP" mods, should get you between 275-310 depending on your choice of S/C, W/M or E85 tune. And still shouldn't effect your driveability, engine dependability, or driving comfort level that much.
Then there's a turbo conversion.
The power levels should and can begin in the upper areas of the above S/C upgrade levels, (290-300 WHP) with the stock block. As long as you keep your boost levels at 19-20 psi or under. Any more boost than that, will require internals and additional block work to keep it reliable.
(All of the above Mods are on a well taken care of, stock bottom end)
But if you want more....
On avg. A fully built motor, capable of handling 22+ psi should put you in the 330+ WHP range, depending on boost levels. (We've seen 28-30 psi achieve 450-500 WHP)
Also, once you get over 325-350 WHP, there are drivetrain and traction concerns to add to the mix, along with those subsequent costs. (My car, with about 330 WHP, on a cool day and 22 psi, will simply have no traction at all in 2nd gear above 5000 RPM, on good 215/45/17 street tires)
While very appealing, a turbo conversion, while still very drivable, is not cheap and will also change your driving comfort level some as well, because of what is required in the engine compartment to get everything to fit. (mostly the removal of the plastic cowling between the exhaust manifold and the firewall, which routes and controls your cabin ventilation) Not to mention your own comfort level as to how hard you drive the car, knowing how much money and effort has been put into such a change, including a more diligent maintenance schedule.
It really depends on what you want.
A good canyon/Dragon carver would be 215-220 WHP and Supercharged
A decent "Mexican" street car would be 225-250 WHP, let you hold your own with similar vehicle types, and surprise many people. Plus be very reliable and basically trouble free. In essence, you can thrash it and not be too concerned.
300+ WHP will let you hold your own against stock and mildly modified S/C V-8's, as long as your not running from a stop. But be costly and require extra care and concern with maintenance and driving habits.
As Way alluded to, start with the "basics" then let your sensibilities and wallet guide you from there, definitely don't go crazy without even trying these Mods first.
I've definitely had more fun in a 225 WHP Mini, than in a 300+ HP Mustang.
Hope this helps to put things in perspective some.
Last edited by BlwnAway; Sep 12, 2020 at 10:58 AM.
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 25
From: North Carolina
I think head work is pretty much required to get 250+hp out of the R53. You can do a 15-17% pulley, cam, injectors and tune to get close. I have a Quaife LSD in mine and I think it's pretty cool.
It all really depends on how much you want to spend and how much work you want to do as HP isn't free.
I would always start with the basics a pulley, intake and exh after you do the normal maint and repairs the car needs as there is no sense in putting a bunch of power in a car with worn out bushings and such.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-pulley-package.html
If you are going to do a clutch then for sure do the diff as the labor is 90% done at that point and adding power won't do any good unless you can put it to the ground.
Making these cars really fun doesn't require a ton of power. So I'd do some and enjoy it then budget for the big power or decide if you want to go that far later.
I would always start with the basics a pulley, intake and exh after you do the normal maint and repairs the car needs as there is no sense in putting a bunch of power in a car with worn out bushings and such.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-pulley-package.html
If you are going to do a clutch then for sure do the diff as the labor is 90% done at that point and adding power won't do any good unless you can put it to the ground.
Making these cars really fun doesn't require a ton of power. So I'd do some and enjoy it then budget for the big power or decide if you want to go that far later.
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,607
Likes: 316
From: Arnold, MO.
I'll start with this...
This only makes sense if you already have the factory LSD and were planning an upgrade.
The factory LSD is very capable, and an upgrade is only needed in full race and big (over 400 whp) HP applications
But, in general an LSD is a good option for any Mini over 180-190 WHP, it simply makes the car more fun and responsive to drive, and for anything over 200 WHP, it's almost a must if you want to be able to use the power.
Here are the "basics" and some "general" power figures.
210-215 WHP can be achieved with the "basics", Exhaust (including Header), Cam, Pulley, Tune, 380cc injectors.
+10-15 WHP with W/M and proper tune, or 450cc (or larger) injectors, E85 and tune.
This list of Mods is a lot of fun and very surprising in a Mini
Once you've done all of the "basics", anything over that will "Require" a BVH.
No matter what you add to the above list. The stock or JCW head will simply bottleneck your power possibilities.
Then there's the "Big HP" mods.
230-245 WHP with the addition of a BVH and 450 or larger injectors to the "basics"
+10-15 WHP with W/M and proper tune, or 650cc (or larger) injectors, E85 and tune.
All of the above Mods can be, and usually are, very reliable and should not effect your daily driveability, driving comfort level or the longevity of your engine, with a decent "normal" maintenance schedule.
(of course taking into account any change in driving habit from the extra power)
For anything more, a change in induction and/or the addition of nitrous would be needed.
An S/C upgrade added to the above "Big HP" mods, should get you between 275-310 depending on your choice of S/C, W/M or E85 tune. And still shouldn't effect your driveability, engine dependability, or driving comfort level that much.
Then there's a turbo conversion.
The power levels should and can begin in the upper areas of the above S/C upgrade levels, (290-300 WHP) with the stock block. As long as you keep your boost levels at 19-20 psi or under. Any more boost than that, will require internals and additional block work to keep it reliable.
(All of the above Mods are on a well taken care of, stock bottom end)
But if you want more....
On avg. A fully built motor, capable of handling 22+ psi should put you in the 330+ WHP range, depending on boost levels. (We've seen 28-30 psi achieve 450-500 WHP)
Also, once you get over 325-350 WHP, there are drivetrain and traction concerns to add to the mix, along with those subsequent costs. (My car, with about 330 WHP, on a cool day and 22 psi, will simply have no traction at all in 2nd gear above 5000 RPM, on good 215/45/17 street tires)
While very appealing, a turbo conversion, while still very drivable, is not cheap and will also change your driving comfort level some as well, because of what is required in the engine compartment to get everything to fit. (mostly the removal of the plastic cowling between the exhaust manifold and the firewall, which routes and controls your cabin ventilation) Not to mention your own comfort level as to how hard you drive the car, knowing how much money and effort has been put into such a change, including a more diligent maintenance schedule.
It really depends on what you want.
A good canyon/Dragon carver would be 215-220 WHP and Supercharged
A decent "Mexican" street car would be 225-250 WHP, let you hold your own with similar vehicle types, and surprise many people. Plus be very reliable and basically trouble free. In essence, you can thrash it and not be too concerned.
300+ WHP will let you hold your own against stock and mildly modified S/C V-8's, as long as your not running from a stop. But be costly and require extra care and concern with maintenance and driving habits.
As Way alluded to, start with the "basics" then let your sensibilities and wallet guide you from there, definitely don't go crazy without even trying these Mods first.
I've definitely had more fun in a 225 WHP Mini, than in a 300+ HP Mustang.
Hope this helps to put things in perspective some.
The factory LSD is very capable, and an upgrade is only needed in full race and big (over 400 whp) HP applications
But, in general an LSD is a good option for any Mini over 180-190 WHP, it simply makes the car more fun and responsive to drive, and for anything over 200 WHP, it's almost a must if you want to be able to use the power.
Here are the "basics" and some "general" power figures.
210-215 WHP can be achieved with the "basics", Exhaust (including Header), Cam, Pulley, Tune, 380cc injectors.
+10-15 WHP with W/M and proper tune, or 450cc (or larger) injectors, E85 and tune.
This list of Mods is a lot of fun and very surprising in a Mini
Once you've done all of the "basics", anything over that will "Require" a BVH.
No matter what you add to the above list. The stock or JCW head will simply bottleneck your power possibilities.
Then there's the "Big HP" mods.
230-245 WHP with the addition of a BVH and 450 or larger injectors to the "basics"
+10-15 WHP with W/M and proper tune, or 650cc (or larger) injectors, E85 and tune.
All of the above Mods can be, and usually are, very reliable and should not effect your daily driveability, driving comfort level or the longevity of your engine, with a decent "normal" maintenance schedule.
(of course taking into account any change in driving habit from the extra power)
For anything more, a change in induction and/or the addition of nitrous would be needed.
An S/C upgrade added to the above "Big HP" mods, should get you between 275-310 depending on your choice of S/C, W/M or E85 tune. And still shouldn't effect your driveability, engine dependability, or driving comfort level that much.
Then there's a turbo conversion.
The power levels should and can begin in the upper areas of the above S/C upgrade levels, (290-300 WHP) with the stock block. As long as you keep your boost levels at 19-20 psi or under. Any more boost than that, will require internals and additional block work to keep it reliable.
(All of the above Mods are on a well taken care of, stock bottom end)
But if you want more....
On avg. A fully built motor, capable of handling 22+ psi should put you in the 330+ WHP range, depending on boost levels. (We've seen 28-30 psi achieve 450-500 WHP)
Also, once you get over 325-350 WHP, there are drivetrain and traction concerns to add to the mix, along with those subsequent costs. (My car, with about 330 WHP, on a cool day and 22 psi, will simply have no traction at all in 2nd gear above 5000 RPM, on good 215/45/17 street tires)
While very appealing, a turbo conversion, while still very drivable, is not cheap and will also change your driving comfort level some as well, because of what is required in the engine compartment to get everything to fit. (mostly the removal of the plastic cowling between the exhaust manifold and the firewall, which routes and controls your cabin ventilation) Not to mention your own comfort level as to how hard you drive the car, knowing how much money and effort has been put into such a change, including a more diligent maintenance schedule.
It really depends on what you want.
A good canyon/Dragon carver would be 215-220 WHP and Supercharged
A decent "Mexican" street car would be 225-250 WHP, let you hold your own with similar vehicle types, and surprise many people. Plus be very reliable and basically trouble free. In essence, you can thrash it and not be too concerned.
300+ WHP will let you hold your own against stock and mildly modified S/C V-8's, as long as your not running from a stop. But be costly and require extra care and concern with maintenance and driving habits.
As Way alluded to, start with the "basics" then let your sensibilities and wallet guide you from there, definitely don't go crazy without even trying these Mods first.
I've definitely had more fun in a 225 WHP Mini, than in a 300+ HP Mustang.
Hope this helps to put things in perspective some.
Last edited by BlwnAway; Sep 12, 2020 at 10:58 AM.
5th Gear
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 697
Likes: 247
From: Vashon, WA
I'll start with this...
This only makes sense if you already have the factory LSD and were thinking about an upgrade.
IMO, an LSD is a good option for any Mini over 180-190 WHP, it simply makes the car more fun and responsive to drive, and for anything over 200 WHP, it's almost a must if you want to be able to use the power.
Here are the "basics" and some "general" power figures.
210-215 WHP can be achieved with the "basics", Exhaust (including Header), Cam, Pulley, Tune, 380cc injectors.
+10-15 WHP with W/M and proper tune, or 450cc or larger injectors, E85 and tune.
This list of Mods is a lot of fun and very surprising in a Mini
Once you've done all of the "basics", anything over that will "Require" a BVH, no matter what you add to the above list, the stock or JCW head will simply bottleneck your power possibilities.
Then there's the "Big HP" mods.
230-245 WHP with the addition of a BVH and 450 or larger injectors to the "basics"
+10-15 WHP with W/M and proper tune, or 650cc or larger injectors, E85 and tune.
All of the above Mods can be, and usually are, very reliable and should not effect your daily driveability, driving comfort level or the longevity of your engine, with a decent "normal" maintenance schedule.
(of course taking into account any change in driving habit from the extra power)
For anything more, a change in induction and/or the addition of nitrous would be needed.
An S/C upgrade added to the above "Big HP" mods, should get you between 275-310 depending on your choice of S/C, W/M or E85 tune. And still shouldn't effect your driveability, dependability, or driving comfort level that much.
Then there's a turbo conversion.
The power levels should and can begin in the upper areas of the above S/C upgrade levels, (290-300 WHP) with the stock block. As long as you keep your boost levels at 19-20 psi or under. Any more boost than that, will require internals and addition block work to keep it reliable.
(All of the above Mods are on a well taken care of, stock bottom end)
But if you want more....
On avg. A fully built motor, capable of handling 22+ psi should put you in the 330+ WHP range, depending on boost levels. (We've seen 28-30 psi achieve 450-500 WHP)
Also, once you get over 325-350 WHP, there are drivetrain and traction concerns to add to the mix, along with those subsequent costs. (My car, with about 330 WHP, on a cool day and 22 psi, will simply have no traction at all in 2nd gear above 5000 RPM, on good 215/45/17 street tires)
While very appealing, a turbo conversion, while still very drivable, is not cheap and will also change your driving comfort level some as well, because of what is required in the engine compartment to get everything to fit. (mostly the removal of the plastic cowling between the exhaust manifold and the firewall, which routes and controls your cabin ventilation) Not to mention your own comfort level as to how hard you drive the car, knowing how much money and effort has been put into such a change, including a more diligent maintenance schedule.
It really depends on what you want.
A good canyon/Dragon carver would be 215-220 WHP and Supercharged
A decent "Mexican" street car would be 225-250 WHP, let you hold your own with similar vehicle types, and surprise many people. Plus be very reliable and basically trouble free. In essence, you can thrash it and not be too concerned.
300+ WHP will let you hold your own against stock and mildly modified S/C V-8's, as long as your not running from a stop. But be costly and require extra care and concern with maintenance and driving habits.
As Way alluded to, start with the "basics" then let your sensibilities and wallet guide you from there, definitely don't go crazy without even trying these Mods first.
I've definitely had more fun in a 225 WHP Mini, than in a 300+ HP Mustang.
Hope this helps to put things in perspective some.
This only makes sense if you already have the factory LSD and were thinking about an upgrade.
IMO, an LSD is a good option for any Mini over 180-190 WHP, it simply makes the car more fun and responsive to drive, and for anything over 200 WHP, it's almost a must if you want to be able to use the power.
Here are the "basics" and some "general" power figures.
210-215 WHP can be achieved with the "basics", Exhaust (including Header), Cam, Pulley, Tune, 380cc injectors.
+10-15 WHP with W/M and proper tune, or 450cc or larger injectors, E85 and tune.
This list of Mods is a lot of fun and very surprising in a Mini
Once you've done all of the "basics", anything over that will "Require" a BVH, no matter what you add to the above list, the stock or JCW head will simply bottleneck your power possibilities.
Then there's the "Big HP" mods.
230-245 WHP with the addition of a BVH and 450 or larger injectors to the "basics"
+10-15 WHP with W/M and proper tune, or 650cc or larger injectors, E85 and tune.
All of the above Mods can be, and usually are, very reliable and should not effect your daily driveability, driving comfort level or the longevity of your engine, with a decent "normal" maintenance schedule.
(of course taking into account any change in driving habit from the extra power)
For anything more, a change in induction and/or the addition of nitrous would be needed.
An S/C upgrade added to the above "Big HP" mods, should get you between 275-310 depending on your choice of S/C, W/M or E85 tune. And still shouldn't effect your driveability, dependability, or driving comfort level that much.
Then there's a turbo conversion.
The power levels should and can begin in the upper areas of the above S/C upgrade levels, (290-300 WHP) with the stock block. As long as you keep your boost levels at 19-20 psi or under. Any more boost than that, will require internals and addition block work to keep it reliable.
(All of the above Mods are on a well taken care of, stock bottom end)
But if you want more....
On avg. A fully built motor, capable of handling 22+ psi should put you in the 330+ WHP range, depending on boost levels. (We've seen 28-30 psi achieve 450-500 WHP)
Also, once you get over 325-350 WHP, there are drivetrain and traction concerns to add to the mix, along with those subsequent costs. (My car, with about 330 WHP, on a cool day and 22 psi, will simply have no traction at all in 2nd gear above 5000 RPM, on good 215/45/17 street tires)
While very appealing, a turbo conversion, while still very drivable, is not cheap and will also change your driving comfort level some as well, because of what is required in the engine compartment to get everything to fit. (mostly the removal of the plastic cowling between the exhaust manifold and the firewall, which routes and controls your cabin ventilation) Not to mention your own comfort level as to how hard you drive the car, knowing how much money and effort has been put into such a change, including a more diligent maintenance schedule.
It really depends on what you want.
A good canyon/Dragon carver would be 215-220 WHP and Supercharged
A decent "Mexican" street car would be 225-250 WHP, let you hold your own with similar vehicle types, and surprise many people. Plus be very reliable and basically trouble free. In essence, you can thrash it and not be too concerned.
300+ WHP will let you hold your own against stock and mildly modified S/C V-8's, as long as your not running from a stop. But be costly and require extra care and concern with maintenance and driving habits.
As Way alluded to, start with the "basics" then let your sensibilities and wallet guide you from there, definitely don't go crazy without even trying these Mods first.
I've definitely had more fun in a 225 WHP Mini, than in a 300+ HP Mustang.
Hope this helps to put things in perspective some.
4th Gear
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 534
Likes: 34
I have added a 16% pulley and a 2% ATI underdrive crank pulley, Miltek header and exhaust, 380cc injectors and a Airtek 60mm intercooler. I don’t have a tune though but the car runs very well. No idea what it’s putting out with and max boost is 16 psi on gauge.
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 55
Likes: 10
From: Tacoma, WA
I'll start with this...
This only makes sense if you already have the factory LSD and were planning an upgrade. The factory LSD is very capable.
IMO, an LSD is a good option for any Mini over 180-190 WHP, it simply makes the car more fun and responsive to drive, and for anything over 200 WHP, it's almost a must if you want to be able to use the power.
Here are the "basics" and some "general" power figures.
210-215 WHP can be achieved with the "basics", Exhaust (including Header), Cam, Pulley, Tune, 380cc injectors.
+10-15 WHP with W/M and proper tune, or 450cc or larger injectors, E85 and tune.
This list of Mods is a lot of fun and very surprising in a Mini
Once you've done all of the "basics", anything over that will "Require" a BVH, no matter what you add to the above list. The stock or JCW head will simply bottleneck your power possibilities.
Then there's the "Big HP" mods.
230-245 WHP with the addition of a BVH and 450 or larger injectors to the "basics"
+10-15 WHP with W/M and proper tune, or 650cc or larger injectors, E85 and tune.
All of the above Mods can be, and usually are, very reliable and should not effect your daily driveability, driving comfort level or the longevity of your engine, with a decent "normal" maintenance schedule.
(of course taking into account any change in driving habit from the extra power)
For anything more, a change in induction and/or the addition of nitrous would be needed.
An S/C upgrade added to the above "Big HP" mods, should get you between 275-310 depending on your choice of S/C, W/M or E85 tune. And still shouldn't effect your driveability, engine dependability, or driving comfort level that much.
Then there's a turbo conversion.
The power levels should and can begin in the upper areas of the above S/C upgrade levels, (290-300 WHP) with the stock block. As long as you keep your boost levels at 19-20 psi or under. Any more boost than that, will require internals and additional block work to keep it reliable.
(All of the above Mods are on a well taken care of, stock bottom end)
But if you want more....
On avg. A fully built motor, capable of handling 22+ psi should put you in the 330+ WHP range, depending on boost levels. (We've seen 28-30 psi achieve 450-500 WHP)
Also, once you get over 325-350 WHP, there are drivetrain and traction concerns to add to the mix, along with those subsequent costs. (My car, with about 330 WHP, on a cool day and 22 psi, will simply have no traction at all in 2nd gear above 5000 RPM, on good 215/45/17 street tires)
While very appealing, a turbo conversion, while still very drivable, is not cheap and will also change your driving comfort level some as well, because of what is required in the engine compartment to get everything to fit. (mostly the removal of the plastic cowling between the exhaust manifold and the firewall, which routes and controls your cabin ventilation) Not to mention your own comfort level as to how hard you drive the car, knowing how much money and effort has been put into such a change, including a more diligent maintenance schedule.
It really depends on what you want.
A good canyon/Dragon carver would be 215-220 WHP and Supercharged
A decent "Mexican" street car would be 225-250 WHP, let you hold your own with similar vehicle types, and surprise many people. Plus be very reliable and basically trouble free. In essence, you can thrash it and not be too concerned.
300+ WHP will let you hold your own against stock and mildly modified S/C V-8's, as long as your not running from a stop. But be costly and require extra care and concern with maintenance and driving habits.
As Way alluded to, start with the "basics" then let your sensibilities and wallet guide you from there, definitely don't go crazy without even trying these Mods first.
I've definitely had more fun in a 225 WHP Mini, than in a 300+ HP Mustang.
Hope this helps to put things in perspective some.
This only makes sense if you already have the factory LSD and were planning an upgrade. The factory LSD is very capable.
IMO, an LSD is a good option for any Mini over 180-190 WHP, it simply makes the car more fun and responsive to drive, and for anything over 200 WHP, it's almost a must if you want to be able to use the power.
Here are the "basics" and some "general" power figures.
210-215 WHP can be achieved with the "basics", Exhaust (including Header), Cam, Pulley, Tune, 380cc injectors.
+10-15 WHP with W/M and proper tune, or 450cc or larger injectors, E85 and tune.
This list of Mods is a lot of fun and very surprising in a Mini
Once you've done all of the "basics", anything over that will "Require" a BVH, no matter what you add to the above list. The stock or JCW head will simply bottleneck your power possibilities.
Then there's the "Big HP" mods.
230-245 WHP with the addition of a BVH and 450 or larger injectors to the "basics"
+10-15 WHP with W/M and proper tune, or 650cc or larger injectors, E85 and tune.
All of the above Mods can be, and usually are, very reliable and should not effect your daily driveability, driving comfort level or the longevity of your engine, with a decent "normal" maintenance schedule.
(of course taking into account any change in driving habit from the extra power)
For anything more, a change in induction and/or the addition of nitrous would be needed.
An S/C upgrade added to the above "Big HP" mods, should get you between 275-310 depending on your choice of S/C, W/M or E85 tune. And still shouldn't effect your driveability, engine dependability, or driving comfort level that much.
Then there's a turbo conversion.
The power levels should and can begin in the upper areas of the above S/C upgrade levels, (290-300 WHP) with the stock block. As long as you keep your boost levels at 19-20 psi or under. Any more boost than that, will require internals and additional block work to keep it reliable.
(All of the above Mods are on a well taken care of, stock bottom end)
But if you want more....
On avg. A fully built motor, capable of handling 22+ psi should put you in the 330+ WHP range, depending on boost levels. (We've seen 28-30 psi achieve 450-500 WHP)
Also, once you get over 325-350 WHP, there are drivetrain and traction concerns to add to the mix, along with those subsequent costs. (My car, with about 330 WHP, on a cool day and 22 psi, will simply have no traction at all in 2nd gear above 5000 RPM, on good 215/45/17 street tires)
While very appealing, a turbo conversion, while still very drivable, is not cheap and will also change your driving comfort level some as well, because of what is required in the engine compartment to get everything to fit. (mostly the removal of the plastic cowling between the exhaust manifold and the firewall, which routes and controls your cabin ventilation) Not to mention your own comfort level as to how hard you drive the car, knowing how much money and effort has been put into such a change, including a more diligent maintenance schedule.
It really depends on what you want.
A good canyon/Dragon carver would be 215-220 WHP and Supercharged
A decent "Mexican" street car would be 225-250 WHP, let you hold your own with similar vehicle types, and surprise many people. Plus be very reliable and basically trouble free. In essence, you can thrash it and not be too concerned.
300+ WHP will let you hold your own against stock and mildly modified S/C V-8's, as long as your not running from a stop. But be costly and require extra care and concern with maintenance and driving habits.
As Way alluded to, start with the "basics" then let your sensibilities and wallet guide you from there, definitely don't go crazy without even trying these Mods first.
I've definitely had more fun in a 225 WHP Mini, than in a 300+ HP Mustang.
Hope this helps to put things in perspective some.
I like this a lot, it puts a real prospective on the subject and on the goals. I personally picked up my R53 about 2 month ago and did a maintenance stage (supercharger maintenance, oil change, coolant flush, water pump etc...) and upgraded to coil-overs, and now it's ready for upgrades. It already has a 15% Alta pulley along with a Borla cat back exhaust and since i want to make it a "A good canyon/Dragon carver would be 215-220 WHP and Supercharged" car, i know what to look at to get it to that! Thanks again for your input.
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2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 117
Likes: 25
From: Austin, TX
I'm trying to figure out what to do next personally. I have a pulley but not sure what size it is and got my Invidia installed. Up on the list is a tune, injectors, cam and headers but I'm not sure what order to do them in, mainly because all of them require a tune and I don't want to drop $300 or $600 each time.
1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 34
Likes: 7
From: New York
Thread Starter
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2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 117
Likes: 25
From: Austin, TX
Abc
What advice do you need man? BlwnAway laid it out pretty much piecemeal up top?
Most people start with a cold air intake, reduced supercharger pulley and an exhaust (in that order). Next can be a few different things: tune, injectors and header, though it's my understanding you need a tune for both the injectors and the header. A camshaft after that should get you to about 250whp I believe.
What else are you looking for?
This is where im at right now.
I NEED ADVICE ON MY 03 R53S !!! Please help!!
Most people start with a cold air intake, reduced supercharger pulley and an exhaust (in that order). Next can be a few different things: tune, injectors and header, though it's my understanding you need a tune for both the injectors and the header. A camshaft after that should get you to about 250whp I believe.
What else are you looking for?
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,607
Likes: 316
From: Arnold, MO.
I should have added this earlier...
In order to minimize tuning costs, a good plan of attack would be this:
Pulley
Intake
Exhaust
Header
Injectors (380's only, anything larger will require a tune)
* None of these will require a tune and the car can be driven how you like.
Then:
Injectors (over 380cc)
Cam
Tune
* While any injector larger than a 380cc will require a tune for the car to run at all, with most Cams the car will actually run well enough to get you around for a short time without a tune as long as you stay out of WOT and high RPM. (for example, your garage to the dyno, or while remote tuning) It just isn't advised to do it for too long.
If you're considering a BVH, it also can be run without a tune, but like a Cam, stay away from WOT and high RPM.
With a Cam and BVH, the factory closed loop adaptations of the ECU (which is your normal driving) will be able to handle the changes well enough for short term use without re-tuning, it's the WOT (open loop operation) where there is too much variation in the way those new parts work, that will cause you problems. Not to mention getting the most out of those parts.
In order to minimize tuning costs, a good plan of attack would be this:
Pulley
Intake
Exhaust
Header
Injectors (380's only, anything larger will require a tune)
* None of these will require a tune and the car can be driven how you like.
Then:
Injectors (over 380cc)
Cam
Tune
* While any injector larger than a 380cc will require a tune for the car to run at all, with most Cams the car will actually run well enough to get you around for a short time without a tune as long as you stay out of WOT and high RPM. (for example, your garage to the dyno, or while remote tuning) It just isn't advised to do it for too long.
If you're considering a BVH, it also can be run without a tune, but like a Cam, stay away from WOT and high RPM.
With a Cam and BVH, the factory closed loop adaptations of the ECU (which is your normal driving) will be able to handle the changes well enough for short term use without re-tuning, it's the WOT (open loop operation) where there is too much variation in the way those new parts work, that will cause you problems. Not to mention getting the most out of those parts.
4th Gear
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 334
Likes: 186
From: Romania
I don't recommend any Hw modification without tune,for the simple reason that the Siemens software designed in 2000 , even is more evolved than a Bosch sw,it is quite primitive,and it cannot perfectly adapt to new Hw changes
The best exemple is R53 JCW 200hp,Specs:
Best result in this case can only be obtained with tuned file which will bring you around 200Hp.
The best exemple is R53 JCW 200hp,Specs:
- Uprated cylinder head, gas-flowed and ported
- 11% Reduction of the supercharger pulley size
- 1-step colder, Colder Temperature Range spark plugs
- Uprated exhaust system (maintaining the same header and catalytic converter)
- RemappedECU
Best result in this case can only be obtained with tuned file which will bring you around 200Hp.
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 2,359
Likes: 752
From: DFW, TX
Example: my R53 has mild mods - 15% SC pulley; a one-ball exhaust and a Dinan Stage 1 tune. On the dyno it pulled 176hp at the wheel that translates to roughly 200hp at the crank. It's plenty fun to drive as-is but I'm looking for a bit more. An $800-$1,000 exhaust doesn't net you very much (approx. 6hp) so I don't feel it's worth the investment. I'm about to install 380cc injectors and a retuned MS5150 ECU that allows a few more programming mods than the stock version. I'm hoping to net 225+hp without expensive head work or exhaust. That amount of power in a 2,500 lb. MINI is going to be a ton of fun and not that expensive to attain.
5th Gear
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 795
Likes: 122
From: SoCal
I find it hard to believe that all this cool h.p. adding stuff does not include a windage tray under the crankshaft.
Controlling the oil as it comes down from the head and out of the crankshaft will...show power gains, especially tossing these cars around in corners. This oil control does NOT make...power, but it helps get rid of spent oil and get away from the crank shaft to LET it spin freer. Even the thinner oil in todays cars will whip up in the system and slow the crankshaft.
Try this... Make a box about the size of the Mini oil pan (put plastic in to to seal any leakage). Now put a coupla quarts of your last used oil for an oil change. Now, pick up the box and slosh it around...where is all of the oil going..? Now, put a vented cover over the box...and slosh it around..I'll be most of the oil stays in the box this time..! Oil whipping around the crank...WILL...rob power. Been proven over and over again.
There isn't a high powered or race engine out there without a way to control the oil in the crankcase.
I'll be working on one for my car this summer after a couple other projects are done.
Mike
Controlling the oil as it comes down from the head and out of the crankshaft will...show power gains, especially tossing these cars around in corners. This oil control does NOT make...power, but it helps get rid of spent oil and get away from the crank shaft to LET it spin freer. Even the thinner oil in todays cars will whip up in the system and slow the crankshaft.
Try this... Make a box about the size of the Mini oil pan (put plastic in to to seal any leakage). Now put a coupla quarts of your last used oil for an oil change. Now, pick up the box and slosh it around...where is all of the oil going..? Now, put a vented cover over the box...and slosh it around..I'll be most of the oil stays in the box this time..! Oil whipping around the crank...WILL...rob power. Been proven over and over again.
There isn't a high powered or race engine out there without a way to control the oil in the crankcase.
I'll be working on one for my car this summer after a couple other projects are done.
Mike
4th Gear
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 398
Likes: 194
From: Portland, OR
Next step....
I'm waffling on my next step:
Current power status:
Cravenspeed 15% pully
NKG spark plugs (one colder) 4285 BKR7EQUP
DDMWorks Cool Air Intake with foam filter
Miltek cat back exhaust
ATI Super Dampener
Option 1
380cc injectors $200
Detroit Tuned BPV $150
Way Motor Works JCW tune $255
OR
Tune with Adriancl
PC laptop, software and cables.(I'm not a PC guy so maybe a little help from my neighbor)
Do I need a wideband A/F for a basic JCW level tune?
Option 2 (which feels a little overwhelming and less bang for the buck)
550cc injectors
Header?
CAM?
Wideband A/F
PC laptop, cables and software.
Tune by Adriancl
My Mini is a fun car for trips to the coast and get 4-5 HPDE day a year. I'm attempting to no go down the rabbit hole and keep it realistic.
Thoughts?
*****ALSO I found this thread super informative & I want to give it a bump so others can read it too.
Current power status:
Cravenspeed 15% pully
NKG spark plugs (one colder) 4285 BKR7EQUP
DDMWorks Cool Air Intake with foam filter
Miltek cat back exhaust
ATI Super Dampener
Option 1
380cc injectors $200
Detroit Tuned BPV $150
Way Motor Works JCW tune $255
OR
Tune with Adriancl
PC laptop, software and cables.(I'm not a PC guy so maybe a little help from my neighbor)
Do I need a wideband A/F for a basic JCW level tune?
Option 2 (which feels a little overwhelming and less bang for the buck)
550cc injectors
Header?
CAM?
Wideband A/F
PC laptop, cables and software.
Tune by Adriancl
My Mini is a fun car for trips to the coast and get 4-5 HPDE day a year. I'm attempting to no go down the rabbit hole and keep it realistic.
Thoughts?
*****ALSO I found this thread super informative & I want to give it a bump so others can read it too.
Of all the performance air cooled (Porsche & VW) engines I've built - The Porsche' all had louvered windage trays; stock in these motors.
I intentionally sourced the 2ltr 914 motors, to stuff into my bug(s), bus and ghia; for this very reason + (the all aluminum block).
Notwithstanding: I' was extremely surprised to find that the Mini was absent of an oil baffle/windage tray for a car that was designed for sport handling and tight cornering
Edit: Well this got me thinking - So I did a quick search....and this turned up: SneedSpeed
While I'm not crazy over the design, It's worth noting; At east there is one option out there for the Mini.
Last edited by Here2Go; Sep 3, 2021 at 06:37 PM.
5th Gear
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 697
Likes: 247
From: Vashon, WA
I'm waffling on my next step:
Current power status:
Cravenspeed 15% pully
NKG spark plugs (one colder) 4285 BKR7EQUP
DDMWorks Cool Air Intake with foam filter
Miltek cat back exhaust
ATI Super Dampener
Option 1
380cc injectors $200
Detroit Tuned BPV $150
Way Motor Works JCW tune $255
OR
Tune with Adriancl
PC laptop, software and cables.(I'm not a PC guy so maybe a little help from my neighbor)
Do I need a wideband A/F for a basic JCW level tune?
Option 2 (which feels a little overwhelming and less bang for the buck)
550cc injectors
Header?
CAM?
Wideband A/F
PC laptop, cables and software.
Tune by Adriancl
My Mini is a fun car for trips to the coast and get 4-5 HPDE day a year. I'm attempting to no go down the rabbit hole and keep it realistic.
Thoughts?
*****ALSO I found this thread super informative & I want to give it a bump so others can read it too.
Current power status:
Cravenspeed 15% pully
NKG spark plugs (one colder) 4285 BKR7EQUP
DDMWorks Cool Air Intake with foam filter
Miltek cat back exhaust
ATI Super Dampener
Option 1
380cc injectors $200
Detroit Tuned BPV $150
Way Motor Works JCW tune $255
OR
Tune with Adriancl
PC laptop, software and cables.(I'm not a PC guy so maybe a little help from my neighbor)
Do I need a wideband A/F for a basic JCW level tune?
Option 2 (which feels a little overwhelming and less bang for the buck)
550cc injectors
Header?
CAM?
Wideband A/F
PC laptop, cables and software.
Tune by Adriancl
My Mini is a fun car for trips to the coast and get 4-5 HPDE day a year. I'm attempting to no go down the rabbit hole and keep it realistic.
Thoughts?
*****ALSO I found this thread super informative & I want to give it a bump so others can read it too.
If you want a perceivable change, a free breathing head, cam, and injectors to support, along with a custom tune is your next step, but it is a big one from a budget, risk, and reliability standpoint.
I personally decided to hold at this point. The next level, done right, with me doing most of the work, is going to cost me about 50% of the current value of my car. My MINI is fun, and a weekend toy/road trip car, but it's also my DD. I need to know it will be reliable M-F as well. Plus, I have a toy.
If yours is not your DD, your needs may be different.
Do you have an LSD and clutch to step to that next level? Don't leave that out of the equation. More power without the ability to put it to the ground is a waste. I assume you already have a well sorted suspension and brakes? Can't remember all the details of your car.
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 2,359
Likes: 752
From: DFW, TX
bump32, my '04 R53 is running everything you have plus what you've listed for Option 1 (including Adrian's tune on an MS5150 ECU). I dynoed at 193.50 hp at the wheel that equates to approx. 222hp at the crank. You are not going to realize the gains you want with a JCW tune so I suggest you stay away from that. The MS5150 ECU is a plug&play and is much more tunable than your stock ECU (read more gains). It's well worth the mild expense.
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,607
Likes: 316
From: Arnold, MO.
I'm waffling on my next step:
Current power status:
Cravenspeed 15% pully
NKG spark plugs (one colder) 4285 BKR7EQUP
DDMWorks Cool Air Intake with foam filter
Miltek cat back exhaust
ATI Super Dampener
Option 1
380cc injectors $200
Detroit Tuned BPV $150
Way Motor Works JCW tune $255
OR
Tune with Adriancl
PC laptop, software and cables.(I'm not a PC guy so maybe a little help from my neighbor)
Do I need a wideband A/F for a basic JCW level tune?
Option 2 (which feels a little overwhelming and less bang for the buck)
550cc injectors
Header?
CAM?
Wideband A/F
PC laptop, cables and software.
Tune by Adriancl
My Mini is a fun car for trips to the coast and get 4-5 HPDE day a year. I'm attempting to no go down the rabbit hole and keep it realistic.
Thoughts?
*****ALSO I found this thread super informative & I want to give it a bump so others can read it too.
Current power status:
Cravenspeed 15% pully
NKG spark plugs (one colder) 4285 BKR7EQUP
DDMWorks Cool Air Intake with foam filter
Miltek cat back exhaust
ATI Super Dampener
Option 1
380cc injectors $200
Detroit Tuned BPV $150
Way Motor Works JCW tune $255
OR
Tune with Adriancl
PC laptop, software and cables.(I'm not a PC guy so maybe a little help from my neighbor)
Do I need a wideband A/F for a basic JCW level tune?
Option 2 (which feels a little overwhelming and less bang for the buck)
550cc injectors
Header?
CAM?
Wideband A/F
PC laptop, cables and software.
Tune by Adriancl
My Mini is a fun car for trips to the coast and get 4-5 HPDE day a year. I'm attempting to no go down the rabbit hole and keep it realistic.
Thoughts?
*****ALSO I found this thread super informative & I want to give it a bump so others can read it too.
Are you considering the expense of a BVH in the future?
This will actually determine your next step in regards to you expense and choices.
(Esp If budget is a real concern)
4th Gear
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 398
Likes: 194
From: Portland, OR
Husky44 Yes I have a LSD stock clutch. Suspension has been updated but still a work in progress... it's good not great. Brakes are R56 on the front and I swap out race pads for the track. They are solid.
cooper48 The MS5150 ECU you are referring to... is that a facelift ECU? My mini is a 2006 so do I already have that ECU?
BlwnAway No Big Valve Head in the future for this Mini. Gota draw the line somewhere.
Thank you all for your input. I'm going to send Adriancl a PM too.
cooper48 The MS5150 ECU you are referring to... is that a facelift ECU? My mini is a 2006 so do I already have that ECU?
BlwnAway No Big Valve Head in the future for this Mini. Gota draw the line somewhere.
Thank you all for your input. I'm going to send Adriancl a PM too.
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,607
Likes: 316
From: Arnold, MO.
Husky44 Yes I have a LSD stock clutch. Suspension has been updated but still a work in progress... it's good not great. Brakes are R56 on the front and I swap out race pads for the track. They are solid.
cooper48 The MS5150 ECU you are referring to... is that a facelift ECU? My mini is a 2006 so do I already have that ECU?
BlwnAway No Big Valve Head in the future for this Mini. Gota draw the line somewhere.
Thank you all for your input. I'm going to send Adriancl a PM too.
cooper48 The MS5150 ECU you are referring to... is that a facelift ECU? My mini is a 2006 so do I already have that ECU?
BlwnAway No Big Valve Head in the future for this Mini. Gota draw the line somewhere.
Thank you all for your input. I'm going to send Adriancl a PM too.
Yes, you most likely have the upgraded ECU, your actual build date should tell you for sure.
With no BVH, best choice dollar wise would be a combination of your ideas:
380cc injectors (no BVH, no real need for the extra expense.)
Header
Wideband A/F gauge (for a better quality tune)
Custom tune
DT/BPV will not be necessary because of the year of your car.
Cam will be negligible without a BVH
BTW, all of the mentioned Mods, (including the BVH) are normally completely reliable, even for a daily driver, there are many people with 100k+ on BVH's
4th Gear
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 398
Likes: 194
From: Portland, OR
Yes, you most likely have the upgraded ECU, your actual build date should tell you for sure.
With no BVH, best choice dollar wise would be a combination of your ideas:
380cc injectors (no BVH, no real need for the extra expense.)
Header
Wideband A/F gauge (for a better quality tune)
Custom tune
DT/BPV will not be necessary because of the year of your car.
Cam will be negligible without a BVH
BTW, all of the mentioned Mods, (including the BVH) are normally completely reliable, even for a daily driver, there are many people with 100k+ on BVH's
With no BVH, best choice dollar wise would be a combination of your ideas:
380cc injectors (no BVH, no real need for the extra expense.)
Header
Wideband A/F gauge (for a better quality tune)
Custom tune
DT/BPV will not be necessary because of the year of your car.
Cam will be negligible without a BVH
BTW, all of the mentioned Mods, (including the BVH) are normally completely reliable, even for a daily driver, there are many people with 100k+ on BVH's
All right... Let me see if I'm on track. Lots of learning and questions here. Correct me where I go off track.
Stock Header has 1 O2 sensor before the Pre CAT and 1 after the CAT correct? So a new header would need 2 bungs to add in the wideband o2 for a total of 3???
I would like more mid range power rather than going for top end/high rpms. Feel like I've read somewhere that I should be looking for a 4-2-1 header?
How much louder is this going to get? Deeper sound is OK but raspy loud not really what I'm after. (I have a Miltek resonated cat back which is great, not much louder than stock)
Pre CAT goes away? Weld on my OEM cat, correct? Or do I need to look at a High Flow CAT?
I do need to pass emissions here in Oregon. Is the loss of the pre CAT going to effect the Emissions?
Here's what I've found with regards to lower cost headers.
OBX Header $375
Scorpion 4-2-1 $400
XForce header $157
I feel like if I need to spend $1000 on a header... I'm out.
Gotcha on the DT/PBV... thanks.
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,607
Likes: 316
From: Arnold, MO.
All right... Let me see if I'm on track. Lots of learning and questions here. Correct me where I go off track.
Stock Header has 1 O2 sensor before the Pre CAT and 1 after the CAT correct? So a new header would need 2 bungs to add in the wideband o2 for a total of 3???
I would like more mid range power rather than going for top end/high rpms. Feel like I've read somewhere that I should be looking for a 4-2-1 header?
How much louder is this going to get? Deeper sound is OK but raspy loud not really what I'm after. (I have a Miltek resonated cat back which is great, not much louder than stock)
Pre CAT goes away? Weld on my OEM cat, correct? Or do I need to look at a High Flow CAT?
I do need to pass emissions here in Oregon. Is the loss of the pre CAT going to effect the Emissions?
Here's what I've found with regards to lower cost headers.
OBX Header $375
Scorpion 4-2-1 $400
XForce header $157
I feel like if I need to spend $1000 on a header... I'm out.
Gotcha on the DT/PBV... thanks.
Stock Header has 1 O2 sensor before the Pre CAT and 1 after the CAT correct? So a new header would need 2 bungs to add in the wideband o2 for a total of 3???
I would like more mid range power rather than going for top end/high rpms. Feel like I've read somewhere that I should be looking for a 4-2-1 header?
How much louder is this going to get? Deeper sound is OK but raspy loud not really what I'm after. (I have a Miltek resonated cat back which is great, not much louder than stock)
Pre CAT goes away? Weld on my OEM cat, correct? Or do I need to look at a High Flow CAT?
I do need to pass emissions here in Oregon. Is the loss of the pre CAT going to effect the Emissions?
Here's what I've found with regards to lower cost headers.
OBX Header $375
Scorpion 4-2-1 $400
XForce header $157
I feel like if I need to spend $1000 on a header... I'm out.
Gotcha on the DT/PBV... thanks.
Yes, 3 total bungs, 2 header, 1 Post CAT. Do yourself and your tuner a favor, OEM CAT, flow characteristics will be far less important than proper gases cleaning, esp with Emissions, should be no issues at all.
It will be louder, but mostly under WOT, but the OEM CAT will help to tame things.
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