R60 Oil filter canister gaskets
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1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2019
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Oil filter canister gaskets
2012 R60 S All4, getting ready to replace the gaskets between the oil filter canister and block as well as between the canister and the cooler. I search but really not finding what I"m looking for.
Any tips/tricks/instructions to get me prepared? I imagine it's gonna be a pain from the little bit I can find online and the fact that Mini quoted it as an 8 hour job.
Every little bit will help. Thanks in advance!!
Any tips/tricks/instructions to get me prepared? I imagine it's gonna be a pain from the little bit I can find online and the fact that Mini quoted it as an 8 hour job.
Every little bit will help. Thanks in advance!!
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 20
Likes: 4
Pay someone else to do it. LOL...Really the biggest pain was the bolts for the heat shields. Then there was the support bar from the bottom of the turbo to the block. But a pry bar works well there 
.
Just make sure you get all of the electrical connections, I believe there were 3 including the O2 sensor. OH, and I had to order a new exhaust clamp for the bottom of the downpipe. Mine was rusted to the point of no return and basically twisted it off.
Once you get everything out of the way it's pretty simple. 4 bolts and it comes right out. Replace the seals and put it back in. Be sure to check the torque settings. My torque wrench was too big to fit in there to properly torque them down. but my cordless wrench said it was good up to 45 foot pounds. So far, so good. No leaks.
Sorry I didn't take any photos. In all it took me about 7 hours in my driveway to get it done. I was just glad to get it over with. No on to the crank seal and eventually the valve cover. The dealership I bought it from said they replaced the crank seal but they may have rolled or pinched it. When I took it to the dealer to have them look it over they said it was leaking. But since I change the canister seals there have been no drips. So I'm thinking it was left over residue from the original leak. But I'm going to check it anyway.
Good luck and let me know if any questions. I will be happy to help out anyone planning on tackling this themselves.
.Just make sure you get all of the electrical connections, I believe there were 3 including the O2 sensor. OH, and I had to order a new exhaust clamp for the bottom of the downpipe. Mine was rusted to the point of no return and basically twisted it off.
Once you get everything out of the way it's pretty simple. 4 bolts and it comes right out. Replace the seals and put it back in. Be sure to check the torque settings. My torque wrench was too big to fit in there to properly torque them down. but my cordless wrench said it was good up to 45 foot pounds. So far, so good. No leaks.
Sorry I didn't take any photos. In all it took me about 7 hours in my driveway to get it done. I was just glad to get it over with. No on to the crank seal and eventually the valve cover. The dealership I bought it from said they replaced the crank seal but they may have rolled or pinched it. When I took it to the dealer to have them look it over they said it was leaking. But since I change the canister seals there have been no drips. So I'm thinking it was left over residue from the original leak. But I'm going to check it anyway.
Good luck and let me know if any questions. I will be happy to help out anyone planning on tackling this themselves.
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