Happy Friday All,

Would really appreciate some insight here. Mini (Toronto) proposing $180 just to diagnose, and $1200-$1500 to fix if alternator is gone. So would like to attempt this myself but not 100% sure if alternator is the culprit.

Background:

• 2006 Mini Cooper S (full disclose it's a R52 but figure more people here on the R53)
• 110,000 KM (70,000 Miles)
• Started the car and went to pull out to very heavy steering,
• Battery light on
• Engine sounded a little laboured

Troubleshooting steps:

• OBD2 scan: reveals nothing about the battery light: (i do have to change front right abs sensor that threw up TMPS, Traction & ABS warning earlier in the week)
• Voltage readings:
  • 11.98V Car off
  • 11.80V Pre ignition
  • 11.75V Pre ignition break lights on
  • 11.50V engine on
  • 11.50V engine on high idle (2500rpm)
  • 11.40V after some time running
  • 11.98V car off again
• High engine temps - during troubleshooting it climbed to max - turned car off and cooling fan kicked on as it sometimes does on a hot day after a spirited drive. suspect coolant is not being pumped either?
• Car is starting fine under the current battery (even now after trouble shooting) - has always been a strong battery to date.
• Checked main fuses in engine bay, all good
• Engine sounds laboured, not as free running but no squeaks or grinding from belt area,
• belts and pulleys seem to all be moving fine
• Click sound near ABS Hydraulic pump pre ignition, like one to 2 clicks - solenoid? (key position - advanced for dash lights)
• Hooked up another car, as an unrequited jump start to ensure voltage was high, battery light remained on when started and power steering remained off.

Some research indicated that the PSP (Power steering pump) and some other components require good signal from the Alternator, so even if hooking up another car or replacing battery may not solve PSP issues, hence I'm leaning towards the Alt.

I am willing to invest time and money into it but before pulling the front off the car and buying chain tensioner tool I would love some insights or confirmations of similar situations.

Cheers

 

Alternator is not charging. Depending on your skill level, it's a 2hr job. While you have your car in Front End Maintenance Mode, you can take care of a few leaks that you may have behind the radiator, (Dip Stick O-ring, Crank Sensor O-ring)..

 

First step is to run to AutoZone or O'Reilly's and have them test your battery and alternator. If they rule those out, then I would suspect that you've lost your power steering pump which was a problem in the R50/R52/R53. Check out Summit Racing for good pricing.

 

I had this happen to me (power steering not coming online once car running) and was due to a dead battery that was no longer recharging. Always start with the easy stuff: have the battery tested or charge it and check it with your voltmeter. If the battery's still good then there is a very good chance the the alternator is toast. If it is the alternator, a mechanic friend of mine has said that you don't want to cheap out on buying a replacement alternator because the cheap ones don't last. He always goes with OEM alternator for replacements because they last longer.

 

The alternator if good will always supply power even if the battery is dead. His voltage is lower with the car running which means the alternator is not charging. Auto Zone will do the same thing he's already done, check for voltage. I suspect that once you take care of your Charging Problem, the other items will be resolved.

 

This. This is why I’m leaning towards bad alt. I also connected my civic in parallel (jump) had 14 volts and the PSP etc issues didn’t go away so thinking good battery would be the same as the civic giving jump. Leading me to alt issues if certain components rely on it.

We we don’t have autozone in Canada but I get the gist. However how does one do an alt test any different than I did without taking it out of the car? and at that point the hard work is done $$$ labour.

 

Interested in this. Was waiting on confirmation on alt or not. But as you’ve already mentioned it is there a thread on all the things to check/replace while I have the belt off and access? Assuming previous owner had done nothing other than fluid changes. sold to me at 70,000km/45,000miles, Any super charger maintenance I should be doing? Timing chain etc?

 

Those voltage readings are definitely low. Still think you should have an auto parts store check it also. Case in point -- my brother-in-law told me he measured the voltage on his daughter's car and it was low. When AutoZone measured it, it was fine. Evidently either he was doing something wrong or his voltage meter was malfunctioning. Learning that saved him $$$$ by not having to replace the alternator. It never hurts to have a second opinion.

 

Thanks for all the replies so far. Questioning my multimeter skills :( lol.

So I put it on a trickle charge overnight:

• 11.75v pre charge after all the trouble shooting dropped from the original.
• 12.20v after charge didn’t start car left it sit for a hour and measured again still 12.2v
• 11.95v - key advanced pre ignition
• 10.50 to 10.60v - voltage drop during engine crank start up
• 11.78v- @ 2000rpm
• 12.10v after car was off key out.

repeated this 3 times to similar numbers (my lovely assistant allowed me to focus on the multi meter).

Assuming my multimeter skills are not letting me down it would appear the battery is strong and the alt is not providing charge.

The other day day I had also taken multiple readings across battery in boot (trunk) which looks brand new to be honest no corrosion anywhere. And also measured across ground bolt for alt and positive terminal in engine bay. Similar readings at either location.

I would love it to be a battery issue but I really doubt it now. Any further thoughts/suggestions is appreciated.

 

Alternator

Took the chance based on volt readings and PSP out.
fix it with a buddy. Front end service mode, replaced the alty. She’s back up and running. 14v & power steering returned.

Thanks for all all the help. If anyone wants more details let me know.

 

Thanks for the update and glad your MINI is up and running again. It's awesome when people find the solution and come back to the thread to let everyone know of the outcome. You sir, are a gentleman