As far as most HP for amount of money spent.........you did the first one...pulley. After that, do a cold air intake, and an exhaust. After those basic bolt ones...you start having to spend a lot more money, for a much smaller percentage of power increase.

If you want to go farther...you can do a header, bigger injectors, cam, big valve head, tune.......but now you are talking big money.

 

From where you're at, I would stick with some basic bolt ons.

 

Add an intake, cat back exhaust. Throw in some bigger injectors and get it tuned. That will put you right at 200whp. You'll have to spend some big bucks after that to get another 20-30hp.

 

 

The first question is how much money do you want to spend? For $10,000 you can get it to 250hp at the wheels.....and be streetable. The only problem is that your buddy's mom's 300hp V6 Toyota Camry will still probably spank you in a drag race.

These cars aren't meant for raw power....they are made to be a blast to drive, and handle awesome around a track. There are 300+up minis out there......but for the cost you could build a 1000hp LS motor and dump it in any old car and run 9's in the 1/4. These really aren't the right car for trying to build big power for cheap.

95% of mini owners do a pulley, intake, and exhaust....and spend the rest of their money on handling and braking mods.

 

Intake and exhaust will help the power.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/02-06-...mance/intakes/
https://www.waymotorworks.com/02-06-...mance/exhaust/

But I'd also do things that will cover maint too like an ATI damper as they are common to fail, but will be a mod as it's lighter and balances the engine better.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/super-...ulley-r53.html

then move onto a cam and injectors
https://www.waymotorworks.com/way-mi...t-r52-r53.html

 

A Dinan Stage 1 tune bumped my non-modified R53 by 12hp (163hp to 175hp). Since that mod I added a 15% pulley that, conservatively, added an additional 15hp. The extra 27hp really woke up the little beast but I'm still not looking for Mustangs and Camaros to race. If I wanted to do that, I would have kept my Corvette. A MINI is a whole different driving experience.

 

 

 

485hp to the wheels? More info?

Have you looked at the Sneed motors? The highest HP "Race" one they list on their website makes 250hp to the wheels, and it's $9,000. Sure...it says it will "handle" 600hp, but it's only making 250hp. So that's $9,000 for a motor that will make 250hp at the wheels......and you want to make 400hp at the wheels? It would be cheaper to buy a different car....you will have $30,000+ in a 400hp mini by the time you are done with the motor/drivetrain mods.

Not saying it can't be done with enough money....but I think you need to be more realistic with your goals.

 

 

380 injectors will be maxed out with intake, exhaust and pulley. If you want to add a cam or header you'll want to go with the 440 injectors. If you seriously plan on doing more get the 550's. They can be scaled down with a tune and adjusted as you add parts. RMW can get good reliable power out of these motors. It's not the cheapest car to build and will never be the fastest thing on the street. But how often do you find a high hp Mini?

 

 

 

 

My 03' 210hp JCW came with the 330cc injectors (didn't start offering the 380cc injectors with the JCW kits until the 06+ 215hp kit). Those 330cc injectors supplied plenty of fuel to support the JCW head, exhaust, intake, pulley, tune, etc...

Point being.....you don't need the 380cc injectors until you get into bigger mods....like cam/head. And yes....if you are going to upgrade them, might as well jump up to the 550's.

When's the last time you heard of an R53 with intake, exhaust, and pulley running lean and eating up a motor because the standard 330cc S injectors couldn't flow enough fuel? Never.

 

Yeah.....that's really not that crazy for newer turbo'd 4 cylinder cars. But when you are talking about the motors in the R53's.....400hp is at the high end, and pretty darn rare. "Big Power" for the majority of R53 owners is 250hp at the wheels......and that's after investing big money in a new head, cam, and all the other bolt ons to make that stuff work.

 

Yeah the power goals with the Eaton aren't realistic, but throw a K20 in there with a snail and you can make 900whp if you'd like.

Just gotta see how loose the tolerances on your wallet and credit limit are...

 

Not sure how long the rods/crack/block would hold up before you end up punching a hole in the side of the motor. I think the R53 that RMW races put out a little over 400hp...and that's probably one of the highest HP R53's out there. I'd say there is a reason you don't see these motors making 500+hp...or at least for very long.

 

 

If you change injectors...you will need a tune to make it run right. You don't need injectors now, so if it was me....I would wait until you do the bigger mods...then also do the injectors and a tune at the same time.

You don't need bigger injectors or a tune for simple bolt ons like intake, exhaust, and pulley.

 

A K20 is a Honda motor, and is well-documented being swapped into a myriad of FWD cars as well as being able to hold as much power as you can spend.

This was said in jest, while simultaneously accurately suggesting a motor / drivetrain swap to make true power in this chassis.

Edit: these heads just aren't going to flow enough to make big power, and the blowers in general that we're discussing also can't handle it. Efficiency maps are crucial here. You're not going to answer any output-related questions without compressor maps and head flow rates. The 300hp+ cars have headwork that would make it less than ideal for street driving.

If you're going to use the stock Triton 1.6L motor, you will be best served by a turbo. If you MUST continue to use a supercharger, it's gonna have to be a Rotrex.