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Took a while, but was pretty simple. At 57K miles this was NEEDED. No, I did not have any ill symptoms while driving or anything, but the fluid was DARK. Way too dark for my liking.
For me the first step was getting the stripped out drain plug loose. Tried a lot of things over the course of a couple months. Finally tried one of those Gator Grip style sockets. Just enlarged my cross cuts so that they would capture some of the sockets pins and viola... came right off.
The other fun part was just getting to the fill port....I see why just using the bottom-fill adapter probably makes more sense.
Just had to remove the intake tubes and main harnesses out of the way.
Fill is down under all sorts of hoses and harnesses... You can sort of see it between the shinier bolt and the green (something). Crusty T55.
I was able to use a socket and extensions using a swivel. That was a nice surprise considering the PDF stated there was no way to do so.
After that it was a matter of getting a funnel to it...I used some clear plastic hose I had laying around attached to a small funnel. It was pretty hard to get in there since my hose was about the exact ID as the fill port. I was thinking I might get a barbed fitting that is the same thread as the fill plug and then I could easily thread my funnel on.
As the PDF says the fluid goes in SLOW. I was standing there for what seemed like forever to get the 2.25 qts I drained out back in! If the tube or funnel was not a super tight fit it would certainly just gush out from around the funnel since its too slow to just pour.
And here was the old stuff. Yuck
Definitely going to be doing this again soon. Maybe every 10K miles or so just until I see fluid color improvement.
"correct" or not it refilled it I guess. Same one as in the other PDF and it did work. Where is this "correct" one you are showing me located? I'll investigate a little.
It was PITN, but if you unbolt the bottom engine mount, you can gain another 1" or so to fit a short T55 bit. air tools make it much easier since they give you instant torque.
Well that sounds worse lol. At least filling the other one was pretty much only taking off the intake tubing. I guess the other side of the "proper" one is keeping the car level. Would have to jack the whole thing up level if I couldnt see that one from above.
I messed with that same top bolt and pumping it back thru the drain bolt is way easier for me. You need to get that pipe to screw in the drain hole but its worth it. Im overdue on my 5th 10k drain fill but im feeling lazy sigh.....
I messed with that same top bolt and pumping it back thru the drain bolt is way easier for me. You need to get that pipe to screw in the drain hole but its worth it. Im overdue on my 5th 10k drain fill but im feeling lazy sigh.....
Yeah I just figured that if I were to fill from the bottom I would have to do the whole temperature-dependent fluid level check procedure...instead of just putting in exactly what was taken out. I guess the check procedure still isnt that hard with a good thermometer.
Yeah I just figured that if I were to fill from the bottom I would have to do the whole temperature-dependent fluid level check procedure...instead of just putting in exactly what was taken out. I guess the check procedure still isnt that hard with a good thermometer.
I just put back in what came out. And an ounce extra since you spill a bit unscrewing the filler pipe and putting the drain bolt back. Ive never done the temp running test, just let it cool enough so its ambient temp.
+1 on filling thru drain hole. I just used a pc of vinyl tubing that fit tight & used my suction gun to pump it in.
Filling thru the top port was painfully slow. Spilled more ATF than went in.
How do you verify fluid level when doing this method? I’d like to get on a 10k drain and fill cycle on our R60 that way the fluid never gets too dirty. We’re at 20k now and would like to start at 30k.
How do you verify fluid level when doing this method? I’d like to get on a 10k drain and fill cycle on our R60 that way the fluid never gets too dirty. We’re at 20k now and would like to start at 30k.
I just put back in what came out. And an ounce extra since you spill a bit unscrewing the filler pipe and putting the drain bolt back. Ive never done the temp running test, just let it cool enough so its ambient temp so you don't have to account for expansion/contraction. Put synthetic fluid in, I use Royal Purple but any synth brand should be better than the OEM.
I just put back in what came out. And an ounce extra since you spill a bit unscrewing the filler pipe and putting the drain bolt back. Ive never done the temp running test, just let it cool enough so its ambient temp so you don't have to account for expansion/contraction. Put synthetic fluid in, I use Royal Purple but any synth brand should be better than the OEM.
Thanks for the tip. I’ll be sticking with Mobil 3309.
Worst case if you totally F it up, the fill and check procedure doesnt seem THAT bad, so long as you have a thermometer to check the fluid temp when you open the drain plug to let it trickle.
Unless the ambient and fluid temp is in the range of 95-113F, the fluid level will be affected to some degree by expansion or contraction. Too cold and the trans will be overfilled.
Luckily for 2nd gen MINI (R56) owners, the auto trans temp can be read using some OBD readers/scanners, so there’s a good chance you can also read the temp on an R60. Scangauge lists auto trans temp for 2nd gen, and auto trans fluid temp 1&2 for 3rd gen MINI’s.
The drain plug is poorly designed, in my opinion. 5mm is too small, and the casting doesn't seem particularly good, causing it to strip too easily. Happened to me last night while putting the plug back in after doing a drain and fill. Torque wrench set to 27 Nm. Don't think I got close to that since the new crush washer wasn't fully crushed. I wish ECS made an aftermarket replacement. I really like their oil drain plug.
R60 Transmission Drain and Fill done
