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I'm itching to get back out on some track days but have been holding off on taking the R56 out and instead picking up a dedicated track toy (either a Miata or R53) but in the meantime I'd still like to get some seat time. Currently I have a 2011 R56 S with a Manic stage 2 tune, NM Titanium heat shield, lower mount insert and Mario's catless downpipe. If I were to do a few track days with this one what should I watch out for? I'm planning on adding an intercooler before doing any days as I know that won't be up to par but are there any components on the car I should be aware of burning out quickly? It's only got 82k miles currently and I don't want to blow it up lol. I don't want to push it and be top of the class but I'd love to get some more seat time and build on my experience.
Don't worry about the intercooler, the most important thing is your brakes. The stock brake pads will overheat quickly, get some front pads that are suitable for the track - EBC Yellows or similar are a good place to start. Very important to get the brake fluid flushed with high temp brake fluid such as Motul RBF600.
Another thing I recommend is the CG Lock seatbelt lock, it attaches to the seatbelt clip and allows you to cinch the lap part of the seatbelt tight to help keep you in place.
Make sure your tires are in good shape and the "free camber mod" (do a search) is a good idea - more front camber really improves the R56 on the track. If you really want to get into it there are huge gains from improved suspension and tires, start with a stiffer rear sway bar and before you know it you'll be shopping for coilovers and camber plates.
Drive safe, have fun, and post about your track days!
Brake is a must unless you are in DE1 or novice group. hawk hps/hp+, ferodo 2500 etc all good for daily & light track use. you want to put a little more aggressive pad in the front. use DOT4 fluid, flush your brake completely. RBF600 is pretty good one.
Except for brakes, no other mod is necessary for track days. More negative camber, stiffer suspension, good tires, LSD will help you reduce couple sec.
One thing I am not agreed with squawskibum is the seatbelt lock, it does help secure your body, but if an accident happens, the neck will be seriously injured.
Thanks for the tips guys. The brakes I was planning on moving up to a pad more aggressive for track use because the ones that are currently on it are pretty terrible even for spirited street driving. Got some bottles of RBF on the shelf still from my last track season that’ll be going in. The only reason I’m really considering an intercooler is because of the stage 2 tune and I don’t want to overrun the stocker too badly for a full session. Camber I’ll definitely look into, camber plates seem like the best method to make that work and be able to switch between a street and track layout pretty easily.
As far as the seatbelt goes I’m prolly gonna pick up a Schroth quickfit harness.
The CG-Lock only keeps the lap part tight, the shoulder belt can pull out or retract normally. In an accident the seatbelt reel will lock anyway to keep your upper body from going forward, the CG-Lock doesn't affect that in any way. Yep the Schroth quick fit is on my shopping list for my next track day.
For camber, I am set to -2 deg all around and drive that daily without any adverse tire wear, rotating every 5K. If I was going all-out at the track I'd go for -3 in front, but I don't want to change it back and forth since it is my daily driver so it is a compromise.
Last edited by squawSkiBum; May 13, 2018 at 05:03 PM.
Thanks for the tips guys. The brakes I was planning on moving up to a pad more aggressive for track use because the ones that are currently on it are pretty terrible even for spirited street driving. Got some bottles of RBF on the shelf still from my last track season that’ll be going in. The only reason I’m really considering an intercooler is because of the stage 2 tune and I don’t want to overrun the stocker too badly for a full session. Camber I’ll definitely look into, camber plates seem like the best method to make that work and be able to switch between a street and track layout pretty easily.
As far as the seatbelt goes I’m prolly gonna pick up a Schroth quickfit harness.
I know this is a year old, but how have you come with getting your car setup?
I saw your post about brake issues and that planned upgrade. Anything else going on?
I know this is a year old, but how have you come with getting your car setup?
I saw your post about brake issues and that planned upgrade. Anything else going on?
Holy crap time flies, I didn't realize I posted this a year ago...dang. Well for anyone who hasn't stumbled across my other thread here, I did finally get my first track day in and did not have the right pads. I went with EBC Reds for a street pad and thought I had yellow's and they didn't even make it through my first session without overheating.
Before this track day I added an NM Eng rear sway bar, been running it on the middle setting and it's been great. Loved how the car rotated at Buttonwillow. With the brake issues from my other thread I've decided to go with a TCE 13" Wilwood BBK, which of course don't fit under the stock wheels so I picked up a new/used set of TE37v's off the forum here. These look great on the car and still shed some weight over the stockers, only concern is offset but we'll see if it's going to work. Traction should get a nice bump going from 500 tread wear all seasons to 200 tread wear tires, not going with anything more ridiculous than that right now as it lends too much credence to learning bad habits.
I also have the following on standby once a spare vehicle goes.
Ohlin's Road & Track Coilovers
Vorshlag Camber Plates
Wagner Intercooler
Water Meth Kit to make sure everything is nice and cool
Schroth Quick Fit Pro harness
Then I think it's just more track time and see how it all holds up. I'm sure it'll be a blast, the last day was so much fun I can't wait to get back out there.
A suggestion for installing the Wilwoods...
Trial fit the Wilwoods to the wheels. The MINI calipers are bolted to the steering knuckle with 2 bolts. Remove those bolts and tie the caliper off to the side, but don’t disconnect the brake line. Assemble the Wilwood caliper and rotor per the instructions, but only hand tighten the bolts. You should be able to then fit the wheel on to make sure it clears the caliper. That way, if the wheel does’t clear, it will be easy to put the stock brakes back on. You will be fine with radial clearance with 17” wheels. It will be the clearance to the wheel spokes that will be the tight spot, if there is any. A set of spacers and longer wheel bolts will fix that if you have any issues.
Yea I was planning to test fit once they come in, the previous owner took some measurements according to TCE and it sounds like it's gonna be a close fit. They are a very low offset, +30 so if I do end up needing spacers anything over 5mm and I'm probably going to re-sell the wheels and grab something different.
Gonna go throw them on today and see if there's any rubbing issues with the wheel wells at stock config as I'm not planning on running ridiculous camber. Thinking -2 up front and -1.5 in the rear, I don't think that would be enough to solve any rubbing issues due to the offset.
That is a really aggressive offset for a MINI. The stock is 47mm. Typically people run 35 to 40mm. My bet is with that offset your wheels have, you will have no problem.
I would run more camber in the rear. I run -2.5 deg in the rear with 1.5 up front. That, in the rear, will allow the car to make good use of those tires.
I know the “conventional” wisdom is a large RSB and reduced camber in the rear to make the car rotate. But, the car responds even better to deep trail braking into corners and not getting on the gas before the apex. This makes the car rotate without those aids, which actually decrease traction. The trailbraking will come with practice.
Fitted up the new wheels and as long as I don't have to run a spacer in front to clear the brakes I think I'm gonna be good to go. These will be dual duty wheels and tires for now, will plan on picking up a dedicated set of wheels for track later in the year. The lower offset and stickier tires made a HUGE difference in how the car corners, it's amazing how differently the car hugs the inside line in corners. Didn't think it was possible but even more excited for the next track day now
That is a really aggressive offset for a MINI. The stock is 47mm. Typically people run 35 to 40mm. My bet is with that offset your wheels have, you will have no problem.
I would run more camber in the rear. I run -2.5 deg in the rear with 1.5 up front. That, in the rear, will allow the car to make good use of those tires.
I know the “conventional” wisdom is a large RSB and reduced camber in the rear to make the car rotate. But, the car responds even better to deep trail braking into corners and not getting on the gas before the apex. This makes the car rotate without those aids, which actually decrease traction. The trailbraking will come with practice.
How is your tire wear and inside edge tire temp with that much camber on the rear?
