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Hey guys,I bought a used Racechip Ultimate on eBay and a K&N Intake system.I installed both upgrades today on my 2012 CM.When i hooked up the chip and I started the car it gave me a rough idle then a warning came up which said take the car to the nearest dealer because there is a problem with the engine detecting low power.I opened the chip box and saw that the first dial was set to #3.I moved it to 6 and started the car and it seemed normal to me.I haven't driven the car as yet to test it because when i got the error I emailed the company to ask them for their advice.They haven't responded as yet but I would like to find out if anyone else has had that problem.I am scared to really test drive the car or run it hard until i get the thumbs up from someone with experience tells me its safe to go ahead. I've been "burnt" in the past from aFe's scorcher chip on my 328i,my engine blew-up at 21,000kms and the company didn't warranty the engine because i didn't take off the chip when i sent the car in. I am eagerly awaiting a response from Racechip
I figured out the problem.When I opened the chip casing I discovered that instead of the setting being@ level 6 on the left dial,it was set to 3.Thats why the engine light and message saying reduced power came up.When i set it to 6,the car started and worked really well.I turned it up to 7 and thus far its pulling like a thief in the night as opposed to how the car behaved stock (without the chip)
Below is a short clip of me testing the car after i got it working
I thought you couldn’t get a Racechip for the R60 only the F60. Am I wrong? If so where do I get one. How is it working??
I bought it from a guy on eBay who crashed his car.You can get a new version of the race chip i have from the company www.racechip.com The new ones have cool added features.I might be selling mine from the car soon because i am thinking of re-flashing my ecu. Tomorrow I will be installing the catless downpipe from CNT racing so i will take another clip to show you guys how it sounds. The chip made a big difference.The car is much more responsive and the acceleration is much better.The traction control system engages way more often than before.
I bought it from a guy on eBay who crashed his car.You can get a new version of the race chip i have from the company www.racechip.com The new ones have cool added features.I might be selling mine from the car soon because i am thinking of re-flashing my ecu. Tomorrow I will be installing the catless downpipe from CNT racing so i will take another clip to show you guys how it sounds. The chip made a big difference.The car is much more responsive and the acceleration is much better.The traction control system engages way more often than before.
I'm in the US and when you go to www.racechip.us, the only chip they sell is the F60. If I stay on the main (UK) website, they sell the R60.
Is there any risk in purchasing the R60 chip from the UK website and installing it in my 2013 R60? I wouldn't think so since they all come from the same place, but I want to be sure.
I'm in the US and when you go to www.racechip.us, the only chip they sell is the F60. If I stay on the main (UK) website, they sell the R60.
Is there any risk in purchasing the R60 chip from the UK website and installing it in my 2013 R60? I wouldn't think so since they all come from the same place, but I want to be sure.
No,there shouldn't be a problem at all.At the end of the day they are all manufactured in one place as you say.I live in Trinidad and our cars are RHD and I bought the chip from a guy in the states who had it on his LHD car and there weren't any issues
I am intrigued. Does anybody know how they work? Is it just a box that trick the car into raising the boost level, like a JB+ or NM power module? Or does it change other perimeters as well? Seems like it could be a decent alternative to an ECU tune, but I’d like to hear from some more folks who have them
I am intrigued. Does anybody know how they work? Is it just a box that trick the car into raising the boost level, like a JB+ or NM power module? Or does it change other perimeters as well? Seems like it could be a decent alternative to an ECU tune, but I’d like to hear from some more folks who have them
So I bought one of these RaceChip. When I got it in the mail, the manual it came with didn't have the full instructions. It was missing information regarding a third connector (C). I emailed their support, and then sent me a picture of where the connectors are located.
Does anyone know if there's a YouTube video or something similar showing how to install one of these into an R60? I've looked myself and can't find one at all.
RaceChip Support image of where the three connectors are located.
The connectors that came from RaceChip.
The manual that doesn't show the third (C) connector.
Never installed RaceChip, but have done others. Seems similar and pretty simple, just unplug existing connection and plug that into the cable and the other end into the sensor on the car. Seems like they sent you the wrong manual or never updated it to the correct product.
So I bought one of these RaceChip. When I got it in the mail, the manual it came with didn't have the full instructions. It was missing information regarding a third connector (C). I emailed their support, and then sent me a picture of where the connectors are located.
Does anyone know if there's a YouTube video or something similar showing how to install one of these into an R60? I've looked myself and can't find one at all.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
You have those sensors, A..B...and C. Your chip has 3 main harnesses running off of it.
Unplug sensor A on car. See which Racechip harness fits sensor A. Plug harness into that spot...then plug the initially unplugged Mini sensor into the other end of the Racechip harness....it just 'T's' inbetween each of those 3 sensors...that is why each of the 3 Racechip harnesses is a T with a male and female connection.
I think the reason there is no real instructions out there is because it is just about as difficult as putting gas in the car.
You have those sensors, A..B...and C. Your chip has 3 main harnesses running off of it.
Unplug sensor A on car. See which Racechip harness fits sensor A. Plug harness into that spot...then plug the initially unplugged Mini sensor into the other end of the Racechip harness....it just 'T's' inbetween each of those 3 sensors...that is why each of the 3 Racechip harnesses is a T with a male and female connection.
I think the reason there is no real instructions out there is because it is just about as difficult as putting gas in the car.
Well, I've never need a socket and hex tool to put gas in my car. And, I'm not a gearhead. The thing covering the B connector won't lift up and out of the way for me like it does in the picture from RaceChip support.
Unplugging and plugging in things is easy. Moving around bits of the engine to access the connectors is not.
Anyone have any tips or pointers? I don't need people telling me it's like changing a tire.
Well, I've never need a socket and hex tool to put gas in my car. And, I'm not a gearhead. The thing covering the B connector won't lift up and out of the way for me like it does in the picture from RaceChip support.
Unplugging and plugging in things is easy. Moving around bits of the engine to access the connectors is not.
Anyone have any tips or pointers? I don't need people telling me it's like changing a tire.
Ok, I think understand what you mean. Here’s what you do. Get a #25 torx head screwdriver, an 8mm socket or wrench, and a #5 Allen or hex key or bit. The thing covering the “B” connection is your airbox. The easiest way to get that MAP sensor is to just take it out. It’s easy, take the torx and undo the 2 silver screws on both sides of the “C” sensor. That’s your MAF sensor by the way. Now undo the three black torx screws along the front edge of the airbox lid (they won’t come all the way out, just loosen them), now you can lift the top off. There is an O-ring on the tube where sensor C is, don’t lose it. It just has the 3 screws in front and 3 or 4 tabs that hook in the back. You may have to work or twist it a little to get out, there is a fat spot on the bottom right of the lid. Now for the rest of the airbox there is only one screw on the outside bottom left of the airbox. It’s held in by the one screw and 3 posts that fit into rubber grommets, this screw comes all the way out, so be careful not to lose it. Once it’s out, you can gently rock the airbox until it pops free from the grommets. The inlet pipe running into the right hand side has a twist lock. So...carefully twist it (airbox towards you, pipe towards the firewall) and pull it free. Now you can lift the airbox out and set it aside. You now have unfettered access to the MAP sensor. Im not sure how the Racechip connects to the car, but I imagine that to connect there it must piggyback like a boost tap. So here is where the 8mm socket or wrench comes in. This sensor plugs into a hole in the intake manifold with an O-ring to seal it and is held in tight with a small bolt. You will need to remove the bolt (it’s more like a screw with a bolt-head) then just pull the sensor out. Now this is where I’m speculating on the Racechip...... Plug the piggyback adapter into the hole where the MAP sensor was and secure with the original factory screw/bolt. Plug the MAP sensor into the matching port on the Racechip harness that you installed in its place, it should be directly on top of the adapter, and secure with the provided screw, usually a #5 hex screw. Now reverse the procedure to reinstall the airbox. It’s a good thing at this time to remove your air filter and inspect how dirty it is and replace if needed. Also clean out the airbox of any debris there can be leaves and all sorts of stuff in there. Good luck and go ahead and PM me if you need any more help. Good luck and please let us know how it is when you are done. EDIT:
After looking at the picture of the harness they gave you, it doesn’t appear that you have to remove the MAP sensor, or the other ones either, it looks like it’s just a simple wire plug, so you shouldn’t need to worry about anything I said past removal of the lower half of the airbox....and the filter and clearing debris out of the box, very important.
Good luck,
Grumpy
Last edited by MrGrumpy; Jul 29, 2018 at 08:42 PM.
Reason: New info
Haha I never even noticed in that picture they were under the airbox. Does look like they just loosened the band clamp from the intake tube, the one screw over on the front left, then just rotated it upward.
Wouldnt advise taking the MAF off the airbox and all that just to get under it. However, inspecting and cleaning the filter is always a good idea. Since its annoying to do so with those 3 bolts it seems like nobody does it. I think mine might have been original with nearly 50K miles on it :(
Haha I never even noticed in that picture they were under the airbox. Does look like they just loosened the band clamp from the intake tube, the one screw over on the front left, then just rotated it upward.
Wouldnt advise taking the MAF off the airbox and all that just to get under it. However, inspecting and cleaning the filter is always a good idea. Since its annoying to do so with those 3 bolts it seems like nobody does it. I think mine might have been original with nearly 50K miles on it :(
Yeah they just rotated it out of the way. I suggested taking it all the way out, just to give them plenty of room and it’s so simple and quick to do. It just seemed easier
Turbo Blow off sound
