Hello,
I have a new WMW Catless DP that will be installed soon. Waiting for it to come back from ceramic coating process.

Is it possible to install it without removing the lower heat shield? I've seen several instructions but this is seems to be a grey area. I still have the factory DP on so I'm just want to make sure when I'm dissembling things, I can also remove the orig DP without removing the lower heat shield.

Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks !

 

It is 4 bolts to remove the lower shield, the hardest part of all of the heat shielding will be to get the two bolts on the front of the heat shields that hold the upper and lower together.

I've been able to take the heat shield loose and leave it in, but I don't like having to argue with a variable when I'm working on a car, so I always take them out.

The one thing I would highly recommend doing is our TOL Super Kit while you've got that much apart. You've got multiple known problem oil leaks in that area that if you haven't already taken care of, you will be soon enough.

 

I did a stock to catless DP install without removing the heatshield. Getting the stock one out is a PITA, putting the catless in is a breeze. There is a lot of pushing from top, pulling from the bottom, bending and finagling that takes place but eventually it comes out. I wasn't in a position to remove the shield so I used brute force and it worked. I got to a couple points where I felt I was SOL because it just wouldn't move. I ended up having to back out a bolt just enough that I could move the shield a few MM to allow the space to get the catted stock DP out. It sucked but if you don't want the hassle of removing the heat shield and don't mind cursing and getting bloodied up a bit, definitely doable. In fact, I did it twice, just be patient and figure it out.

 

Thanks for the tips. I’ll dive in a few weeks from now and knock this thing out.

 

I used the Akrapovic installation sheet as a guide for my down pipe install. Worked great.

https://d1sfhav1wboke3.cloudfront.ne...987b0971c8.pdf

 

Hi, I have a question about catless downpipe. What are the best options? I don't want Milltek b/c it is not made very well, co what else shoud I consider? The power gain will be thisame it is just a pipe right? Should I go with Scorpion? Evolve? what else?
Is is really matter if it is ceramic coated or not?
Thanks

 

If you’re going catless, I can’t see there being much difference between all the options. User Mariokart sells one that supposedly prevents a CEL. I have the Way Motors pipe on my car, and it works great.

https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-ca...8-r59-r60.html

 

I chose to have mine coated in order to contain some of the heat and hopefully gain a small amount of efficiency. There are different views on this and you can find a lot of information on line to make your decision. Let google guide you......

I have the same pipe as njaremka mentioned. Hope to get it installed this weekend.

 

I went with a cheap one. Fit great and works well. ( I also went stage 2 manic so CEL wasn't an issue for me) To the OP I did the DP swap last weekend. I did it in my garage on jack stands. You may be able to get the stock one out, but I am willing to bet you would save time just removing the heat shield. ( Yes it's a pain, but not hard. ) A 1/4 in ratchet with a 4-5 in extension is what I used.
Also I recommend a new exhaust clamp from the do to the exhaust. At the very least get a new bolt for the old one. ( Had to cut mine because the clamp bound to the bolt after the nut was removed) it took me about 2 hours for the DP. Install.

 

Thanks everyone. Started the install yesterday. Took your advice and removed both heat shields. Things were going smooth until I got to switching out the studs in the turbo. Had soaked them, tried the double nut method to remove them, even used heat and still ended up breaking the top one and the one on the bottom next to the exhaust manifold.

Ended up borrowing a 90 degree drill from a friend and was able to get the old studs drilled out but that also meant I had to re-tap the stud threads. Did not get full penetration with the tap on the lower one due to limited back space on hole, but I’m praying there is enough thread here to hold things tight. Those 2 studs cost me 6 hours of tedious time and a few choice words.....

Start to fit the DP from the bottom up last night and saw where it will need some tweaking on the lower bracket to get it flush with the turbo. Will resume that today and try to get this thing buttoned back up.

Great times in the garage! Still better than being at work...

 

what a nightmare! glad you are staying positive.

 

the lower brackets are adjustable too. the bolts that hold them to the block and be loosened, and brackets moved.

 

mattiemo, those lower brackets became my hero yesterday when I got towards the end of wrapping this up. I just took them off, bolted things up on the top end and then came back to the bottom side and put the lower brackets back in place. It's all done now and it sounds and feels great. No leaks detected so far and of course, I'm getting the normal error codes for the cat stuff.

 

Great. now time for that manic tune. (Just to clear the CEL LOL )

 

Yeah, that’s what I had to do with mine. Mount to the turbo, connect the flange at the exhaust, then install the brackets. Tighten the turbo flange, then sung up the lower brackets. If no leaks, good to go!

 

To install catless downpipe after taking off the old one, do I need any extra bolts? clamp? gasket? any downpipe fitting kit? many stores sell them I don't know why?

 

The down pipe should come with a gasket for the turbo end.
I got a new clamp for the exhaust pipe side I would recommend a new one. But you could use the old one. ( at least have a bolt that fits the old clamp though) I had to cut the bolt, it was bound up to the clamp.

 

Thanks!

 

Babidi, When I bought my set up from WMW, I ordered a new downpipe Clamp, new downpipe Gasket & new downpipe Studs. Wanted to make sure I covered all the bases on the install and as you can see from my journey, be prepared !!!! All 3 items ran a total of approx $71 plus tax.

 

I did the same, and it was money well spent for piece of mind.

 

Ok great, thank you all for your help, I will just buy those oem parts.

 

here is the clamp
https://www.waymotorworks.com/exhaus...9-r60-r61.html

and the gasket
https://www.waymotorworks.com/exhaus...9-r60-r61.html

 

*for future: If you remove the 2 bolts from the lower heatshield, which are on the bottom, passenger side.. You can pull the passenger side of the lower shield towards the font of the car and it gives enough gap for the stock DP to literally fall out if disconnected.

tools needed:
favorite drive ratchet
10mm socket
13mm socket
small extension
torch
WD-40
large adjustable wrench for O2 sensors

Takes around an hour if all goes well. I did mine on a cold car and used the torch to pre-heat bolts at the turbo flange.