F55/F56 Release Bearing Nosie
Release Bearing Nosie
My car has about 41K miles on it, and I've noticed that the throw out bearing is starting to make a lot of noise at idle.
When I got the car, I was told the clutches in the F's are weaker than the R's so I've always tried to be nice to my clutch. Are the clutch components in these cars just crap or did I just get lucky and mine is going out prematurely?
Side note: my car was effected by the engine bearing recall and they had to replace my whole engine less than a year ago. I wonder if the excess movement in the driveline contributed to the premature failure of the bearing?
When I got the car, I was told the clutches in the F's are weaker than the R's so I've always tried to be nice to my clutch. Are the clutch components in these cars just crap or did I just get lucky and mine is going out prematurely?
Side note: my car was effected by the engine bearing recall and they had to replace my whole engine less than a year ago. I wonder if the excess movement in the driveline contributed to the premature failure of the bearing?
I'm pretty sure its the release bearing. The noise will stop when I push the clutch in. My state inspection is coming up, I think I'll take it by Mini for the inspection and pick their brains while I'm there.
Have you talked to Chris about it? Doesn't sound like a throwout bearing if the noise stops when you depress the clutch, but you never can tell. Might want to consider a new single mass flywheel performance clutch considering all the power you're making with the Manic tune.
I emailed him about to today actually. I'd love to do some upgrades while I'm in there, LSD and clutch upgrades are at the top of the list but sadly I don't have the money. I'll start a GoFundMe page later so you all can chip in 😀
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--Matt
The chatter doesn't bother me when its "supposed" to do it 
In doing some research I came across this site, (http://jmtcperformance.com/stage-1-t...f-series-2-0l/) which so far seems to be the only place to get a SMF. They do have an interesting foot note however.
"JMTC recommends ordering one of our installation kits and a new master clutch cylinder. The master clutch cylinder has a check valve that can become blocked and will keep the system pressurized and partially or fully engaged. If it is blocked it will impede performance and can and WILL shorten the life of the clutch due to slippage and/or full engagement of the throw-out bearing.
If the check valve is blocked the clutch could slip right after installation and the pedal/pressure plate fingers may bind when the clutch peddle is depressed. If the master clutch cylinder check valve is blocked you will be lucky if the clutch lasts 15 to 20k miles Kevlar or not! Our full Install kits are insurance that your clutch install will go well, the clutch pack last long, and prevent unnecessary premature failure."
I find this interesting for two reasons, one, I've always had a bit of an issue getting the car into first gear after some spirited driving. Two, I just recently replaced my brake fluid and have noticed my clutch pedal has been making a squeaking as of late. The chatter from the engine has also increased since doing the brake fluid flush. I didn't really put two and two together as I have heard the chatter noise before and surprisingly the first gear issue got better after the bleed. As for the clutch padel, It sounds like the return spring is squeaking.
I wonder if by some chance the master cylinder is plugged up and if the partial pressure is keeping the release bearing against the clutch. This could explain the noises from the bearing as it spins and the squeaking in the clutch master. In addition, if the clutch is partially engaged, that first gear shift might become easier.
I think I'm going to throw the car back up on the stands, pull out the slave and see what I can see though the hole in the transmission.

In doing some research I came across this site, (http://jmtcperformance.com/stage-1-t...f-series-2-0l/) which so far seems to be the only place to get a SMF. They do have an interesting foot note however.
"JMTC recommends ordering one of our installation kits and a new master clutch cylinder. The master clutch cylinder has a check valve that can become blocked and will keep the system pressurized and partially or fully engaged. If it is blocked it will impede performance and can and WILL shorten the life of the clutch due to slippage and/or full engagement of the throw-out bearing.
If the check valve is blocked the clutch could slip right after installation and the pedal/pressure plate fingers may bind when the clutch peddle is depressed. If the master clutch cylinder check valve is blocked you will be lucky if the clutch lasts 15 to 20k miles Kevlar or not! Our full Install kits are insurance that your clutch install will go well, the clutch pack last long, and prevent unnecessary premature failure."
I find this interesting for two reasons, one, I've always had a bit of an issue getting the car into first gear after some spirited driving. Two, I just recently replaced my brake fluid and have noticed my clutch pedal has been making a squeaking as of late. The chatter from the engine has also increased since doing the brake fluid flush. I didn't really put two and two together as I have heard the chatter noise before and surprisingly the first gear issue got better after the bleed. As for the clutch padel, It sounds like the return spring is squeaking.
I wonder if by some chance the master cylinder is plugged up and if the partial pressure is keeping the release bearing against the clutch. This could explain the noises from the bearing as it spins and the squeaking in the clutch master. In addition, if the clutch is partially engaged, that first gear shift might become easier.
I think I'm going to throw the car back up on the stands, pull out the slave and see what I can see though the hole in the transmission.
Last edited by devilmotorsports; Oct 8, 2017 at 04:19 AM.


