What do I have to do to get some 70mm to 56.1 mm rings. I have Brand New Wheels and Tires sitting in my garage because no one has these on hand. Any pointers or vendors I can order from and pay for overnight. Still waiting on my order from ECS. It's been a week as it's direct from supplier. HELP!

 

70 is an odd size you sure they are not 70.8?

Others should chime but i am thinking 0.4 mm is not that big of gap and would work.

 

Actually it is 70.1 to 56.1. Any recommendations on where else I can ourchase? Who else has Rotiform?

 

they just help with mounting they dont really hold weight the lug bolts or stud nuts hold the weight

half of mine are plastic, you can get them on ebay, or amazon

 

 

Can't help you get them any faster, but get the metal ones. OR buy wheels with the correct bore. Tirerack.com can get you centering rings.

 

I am thinking that most aftermarket wheels are oversized for a "one size fits all" production relative to the hub bore.

 

They are ^. I've tried 2 sets of aftermarkets and always ended up with a vibration around 65+ mph even with (plastic) centering rings. I gave up and stayed with R112's.

 

http://us.hubcentric-rings.com/size-.../?src=intpopup

 

http://www.justforwheels.com/index.j...yABEgLeCfD_BwE

 

Local tire stores often can get them through a local distribution company. Got some from Les Schwab in Oregon for $10 and they put the wheels on the car for free.

 

I have no vibration at 125+ on the track or on the street at highway speed with or without centering rings, you may want to find another shop for your tire balancing, if single weight find someone that will do dynamic balance

 

Wait, are you saying that my experience wasn't the same as yours? That's just crazy.

Did that. Twice on first set of wheels by 2 different shops that deal with cars that actually require dynamic balancing, Porsche's, Ferrari's etc. Spent double on the next set of wheels (went from Sparco's to OZ's). Both sets of wheels required hub centric rings. The only thing that stayed the same from set to set was plastic rings (new set for each set of wheels).

That's why I recommended maybe the metal centering rings. In the end, stock is where I landed. If I were to buy aftermarket again I'd get wheels with the proper bore for the application.

 

Somewhere there is an article on how the wheel is held to the hub via torqued bolts/nuts. That is why both wheel bolts and nuts are tapered with the wheel also being machined/cast with a similar receiver tapered hole.

It is a matter of physics and not the hubcentric ring.

 

Hubcentric rings are just a placeholder to keep the wheel centered while you torque them to spec. In theory you could just wrap enough duct tape around the hub and install your wheels.

 

Welp, I did TONS of research. Thought the same, but if that was 100% the case I'd still have vibration at speed with the OE wheels. I even bought new lug bolts and the issue persisted. Rotated wheels to see if it was just one etc. Issue persisted. Of all the reading I did more than one article came around and recommended just sticking with wheels that have the correct bore for the application.
Almost all of the vehicles I've ever owned have had aftermarket wheels and have never had the vibration issue. However this is my first that requires hub centric wheels and uses bolts instead of studs.
I went thru hell and back with the issue. Had calls with the vendor and manufacturers that led nowhere. They sent a couple new sets of rings, changed out a set of wheels completely. Problem persisted. It'll be a while before I venture back to the aftermarket world for wheels on this MINI. And really, aside from being a heavy 23lbs., the R112's are sweet wheels.

 

What brand of wheels were giving you that problem? Studs instead of bolts, surely miss that, makes it much easier to install wheels.

 

mini and modern bmw (same parts) do NOT require hub centric wheels they are lug centric, this is documented pretty much EVERYWHERE

 

I was in construction, built everything from houses to some very sophisticated pharmaceutical facilities. Dealt daily with tolerances. If you want a rotating mass such as a pulley to have minimal vibration then the pulley is installed on a tapered shaft and is either pressed or torque bolted in place. To remove the pulley, a puller most be used to overcome the force used in the initial placement. A wheel on a car is not installed similar to a pulley as the wheel can be easily removed once the fasteners used to attach are removed. The bore of the wheel compared to the hub that it is placed over has a difference of possibly up to 1 mm, and IMO that tolerance is great enough so as to lend no "support" in minimizing vibration.

I am under the impression that when you torque the wheel lugs, thinking around 88 ft. lbs., it is not to keep the lug from loosening up but rather so that sufficient force is applied to keep the wheel rotating true in the "x" axis. The tire is balanced to keep the rotation true in the "y" axis.

 

This hasn't been my experience with my e46, or my e34. Not sure if those are considered "modern". I've always understood BMW to be hubcentric.

 

Torque spec per the manual is something like 103.1 on my 12'. I tried less torque and more. Only thing that made the vibration go away was the OE wheels.

 

both are the same, the load is carried by the tapered lug bolts same as what they did on mini. You can use plastic hub centering rings to make mounting easier, but the hub adapters carry no load when the lug bolts are torqued, all the load is on the bolts

I have plastic hub adapters, metal ones, and I've ran with none, no difference. I'm not sure how the plastic ones hold up to track temps, my rotors have been 650 degrees after a cooldown, the wheels are too hot to touch, I have to let them cool down before I rotate tires

 

I've also ran plastic, metal, and none. I've not noticed any difference with vibrations with different materials. I've noticed a massive difference without running them. I'm not sure where you've read that they're lug-centric. In all of my experience and with everything I've ever read regarding BMW, they're hubcentric and it makes all the difference.

Could you cite something that says they're lug centric? All I can find with a quick google search is forums on forums saying they're hubcentric and need rings, which coincides with my personal experience.

 

I could understand if the hub sizes were off a tad but a 70mm to a 56.1 mm would make me nervous to not install a hub ring. I tried the two sites recommended. Let's see which one gets to me first.

 

I've been through this as well, took two years of figuring out what it was..balancing, new wheels, new tires....I spend $ on stuff that wasn't needed....so first off.

1) what year/model MINI do you have ?
2) how many miles on the odometer ?