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Cyl head rebuild and much better idle...

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Old Apr 8, 2017 | 12:25 PM
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Cyl head rebuild and much better idle...

Hey MiniMafia, I needs some help.

I bought a shell of a r56 and bought an engine and tranny somewhere else, because I love difficult and hyper problematic automobile issues.
2007 MCS pretty little grey car. Looks like an Oakland Raider's dream.

Had a broken timing chain, took off the head, resurfaced, new exhaust valves, lapped valves in, basically fixed everything. Got it back together, and it runs, but very rough, lots of codes, but no fuel, oil or water leaks. Small victory.

First round: rough idle, many misfire codes and '287e Vanos inlet movement. Vanos actuator signal.' Car ran worse and worse. Sputtering, smoking, codes, codes, codes. I asked a question in the coupe section, guy said 'are you sure you timed it up right?' It sounds like it is way out of time. He's right. It does. It sounds like other cars I have done that were a tooth off etc.

So, I pull valve cover, check the timing. Dead nuts perfect. Tool slips in the bell housing, In and Ext straight up, and tools slap on the cams with no effort. I don't think it's the timing.

I have another VANOS solenoid, and I swap it with the first one, put everything together.

Car starts, runs much better, idles pretty smooth. Code pops up: 287a vanos solenoid valve inlet activation.

SO thats where we sit right now. Doing better, not quite home.

Any takers? Why did the codes switch? Car runs much better, but I hate little yellow pictures of engines on my dash. It spoils my ethos.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 02:56 PM
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Bump. Still getting the code but car is running and driving very well. I am going to take the vanos solenoid out, and clean it, and maybe replace it, but any help appreciated.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 04:53 AM
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after any rebuilt, I used to reset/clear the adaptations so the engine can relearn again. If the car runs smooth and no issues there, drive it 60 miles so the ECU can be "ready", like when you do inspection/emission kinda ready. Also, are you clearing the codes via OBD scanner?
 
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Old Apr 29, 2017 | 08:10 AM
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yes, I am clearing the codes with a scanner, and once let the battery rest overnight.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2017 | 05:28 PM
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Update and last question, I promise.

So, I fixed the car, and other than a few small issues (forgot to tighten hose clamp on noisemaker) I also had some problems the vacuum lines and such, Car runs very good. No codes, and lots of boost. Car is very fun to drive through the mountians! The corner speed you can carry is amazing!

But. Today it had a bad misfire, and the car died and wouldnt start. I checked everything, and found that I had replaced the PCV hose with heater hose and it was collapsing under vacuum. Ok, stupid on my part. ordered the new hose, but now I am getting MAF correction signal, or according to my scanner '2B5F Air Mass Sensor correction signal,' and '2B51Air mass sensor signal." I think one code is for the disconnection of the MAF, but is the other because MAF is bad?

Now the car starts, runs for a few seconds, and dies. So, I pulled the plug on the MAF and it runs fine. The only thing I can think of is a bad MAF, but I have been around enough that it is not always so simple as 'replace the part with a code.' Any help appreciated.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2017 | 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by edognight
So, I pulled the plug on the MAF and it runs fine. The only thing I can think of is a bad MAF
My thought too...it is relatively cheap and if not it, you can return it
 
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Old Sep 30, 2017 | 01:36 PM
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So, new Bosch MAF, and the same exact thing. Runs fine with the MAF unplugged, and wont idle with the MAF plugged in. The only think I can think of is it needs a battery nap, to reset adaptations, (i only left it unplugged for about 15 minutes). Other than that, I am stumped.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 02:11 PM
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Bump. I hate to whine, but sale of car is pending fixing this...
 
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 02:28 PM
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If you have MAF codes chances are that there is still a vac leak somewhere, have you smoke tested the system yet?

If you pass a smoke test you need to find a quality scan tool that reads manufacture codes and report back with all codes present in the DME.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2017 | 01:27 PM
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Thanks, but those are all of the codes I am getting. My code reader is a cheapie, but I think it is BMW specific...I agree that usually you would get misfire codes or fuel trim codes, etc. but just those two. I am going to rig up a pressure tester, I'm sure I just missed a hose clamp or something...

If not, it is going to the indy down the road who can do a smoke test...that or three black and milds...
 
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Old Oct 7, 2017 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
after any rebuilt, I used to reset/clear the adaptations so the engine can relearn again. If the car runs smooth and no issues there, drive it 60 miles so the ECU can be "ready", like when you do inspection/emission kinda ready. Also, are you clearing the codes via OBD scanner?
Could you please tell a bit about adaptation precedure? Do I need it after timing chain replacement?
 
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