Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain catless DP install no tune?

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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 01:20 PM
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obon3's Avatar
obon3
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catless DP install no tune?

so I have a bunch of mods installed but when I recently installed the catless dp with no actual tune except what I have from the alta accessport....ive been noticing some weird things. obviously I was told the check engine light would come on, which it did....but another weird thing is that car begins to putter when its warm, but not when its cold. the idle begins to jump from over 1000 to under 1000 when warm again. and I also notice a smell of burning... the feeling I get when I accelerate(again when warm) is like a huge lag, no power but rev goes up with out acceleration. anyone who has upgrades like such without a tune chime in please. just wanna know if this is normal or am I experiencing something that can be an issue. btw I have the catless dp, resonator delete, noise delete, helix fmic, cold air intake, and accessport. please help
 
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 01:26 PM
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I haven't heard this happening or interfering with the way the car drives. Many stock Minis drive with a catless DP just fine. I wonder if your new DP is somehow blocking the wastegate arm

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Old Feb 19, 2017 | 05:58 PM
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Check for leaks around your intake, fmic, charge pipe etc.

Doesn't sound DP related if it is at idle.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2017 | 08:46 PM
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I agree, sounds like a boost leak. Check the piping connections at the turbo, intercooler, ect.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2017 | 08:49 PM
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I've read other threads where guys explain similar symptoms to the diverter valve? Thoughts...
 
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Old Feb 26, 2017 | 09:28 PM
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It's possible you've developed a new problem and intake leaks will make the idle hunt but... When in doubt go back to the last thing touched. In this case the DP. When you start the vehicle cold the ECU is in cat pre-heat mode. RPM is increased to 1100 and the ECU is in open loop mode running from predefined parameters. Once the engine warms it goes into closed loop mode. The idle drops and ECU aims for a lambda of 1.0. If you have a exhaust leak before the primary O2 sensor it can cause incorrect readings. In addition the hot air escaping make be what's leading to the burning smell you noticed. I'd pull the upper heat shield and looks for any signs of leaking.
 
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