R50/53 MINI COOPER r53 FUN
MINI COOPER r53 FUN
I got a Mini Cooper a few months ago and haven't really done anything to it I want to prepare for my first season of auto cross and wondering what some of the best things to do before getting on the course
I generally agree with IQ
I think in the order of importance for autocross, I'd do
a hollow 25.5 rear sway (the biggest you can find, it really helps to be able to rotate the car in auto-X)
A boost pulley (I run a 17% but there is a decent argument for a 15%)
Strut tower brace (check out the WMW one)
High performance summer tires
Improved brake pads
4 point schroth belts
It kind of depends on the series you're running, SCCA has pretty strict guidelines on what you can change on the car without getting out of the stock class, where as BMWCC and other series are usually a bit more flexible.
I think in the order of importance for autocross, I'd do
a hollow 25.5 rear sway (the biggest you can find, it really helps to be able to rotate the car in auto-X)
A boost pulley (I run a 17% but there is a decent argument for a 15%)
Strut tower brace (check out the WMW one)
High performance summer tires
Improved brake pads
4 point schroth belts
It kind of depends on the series you're running, SCCA has pretty strict guidelines on what you can change on the car without getting out of the stock class, where as BMWCC and other series are usually a bit more flexible.
An Hsport Comp rear sway bar is by far the #1 mod for AutoX
https://www.waymotorworks.com/h-spor...-sway-bar.html
Now for the other mods you need to look at the rules and decide which class you want to run as the rules will determine what mods you can or can't do.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/h-spor...-sway-bar.html
Now for the other mods you need to look at the rules and decide which class you want to run as the rules will determine what mods you can or can't do.
An Hsport Comp rear sway bar is by far the #1 mod for AutoX
https://www.waymotorworks.com/h-spor...-sway-bar.html
Now for the other mods you need to look at the rules and decide which class you want to run as the rules will determine what mods you can or can't do.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/h-spor...-sway-bar.html
Now for the other mods you need to look at the rules and decide which class you want to run as the rules will determine what mods you can or can't do.
I haven't installed the Hsport bar, but I've done 2 other rear sway bars, I'd say it's a little harder than an oil change, but easier than a brake job.
Alta has good instructions, and pelican probably has a good DIY too.
you basically remove the rear wheels rear struts, the brackets for the sway bar bushings, pull out 2 bolts from the rear subframe, slide the old bar out between the gap in the rear subframe, and then do it all in reverse.
The place you're most likely to hit a snag is the bolt on the bottom of the rear strut takes alot of torque (125ish ft/lbs) so that can be hard to get loose, and I've heard of people snapping off the bolts for the top of the rear strut to the chassis, but I don't think that's very common, just don't force things.
I think I did it in an hour and a half/2 hours that ball park.
Alta has good instructions, and pelican probably has a good DIY too.
you basically remove the rear wheels rear struts, the brackets for the sway bar bushings, pull out 2 bolts from the rear subframe, slide the old bar out between the gap in the rear subframe, and then do it all in reverse.
The place you're most likely to hit a snag is the bolt on the bottom of the rear strut takes alot of torque (125ish ft/lbs) so that can be hard to get loose, and I've heard of people snapping off the bolts for the top of the rear strut to the chassis, but I don't think that's very common, just don't force things.
I think I did it in an hour and a half/2 hours that ball park.
Pretty sure adjustable solid 19mm/hollow 22mm bars are the favorites around here. I've heard nothing but good things about Ireland Engineering.
I think spending money on really good tires, struts, and brakes will go a much longer way than an expensive sway bar, though. Especially because sway bars do less work with better struts (less suspension travel=less anti-sway goodness).
Honestly though, with these cars, maintenance is everything. Before you install that supercharger pulley, service the supercharger oil, ignition system, check the belt tensioner, transmission fluid, and motor mounts (poly mounts/control arm bushings are the best bang-for-your-buck driveability mod IMHO).
It's not sexy, sure, but at least you'll protect the car from eating itself up. You don't want to add power before the other (fairly fragile) components aren't up to the task. And if you're auto-crossing, vehicle dynamics are way more important than power.
I think spending money on really good tires, struts, and brakes will go a much longer way than an expensive sway bar, though. Especially because sway bars do less work with better struts (less suspension travel=less anti-sway goodness).
Honestly though, with these cars, maintenance is everything. Before you install that supercharger pulley, service the supercharger oil, ignition system, check the belt tensioner, transmission fluid, and motor mounts (poly mounts/control arm bushings are the best bang-for-your-buck driveability mod IMHO).
It's not sexy, sure, but at least you'll protect the car from eating itself up. You don't want to add power before the other (fairly fragile) components aren't up to the task. And if you're auto-crossing, vehicle dynamics are way more important than power.
Last edited by sarom058; Feb 8, 2017 at 11:40 AM.
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Just go and feel out the car. After 2-3 autox events you will have a really good feeling of where the car lacks for YOU and actually tell if a mod made a difference.
If you're going for points, make sure you know the rules before you do mods. You don't want to end up in street mod with a bunch of monsters cuz you did a simple engine reflash and end up at the bottom of the pole, never being able to catch up.
If you're going for points, make sure you know the rules before you do mods. You don't want to end up in street mod with a bunch of monsters cuz you did a simple engine reflash and end up at the bottom of the pole, never being able to catch up.
Just go and feel out the car. After 2-3 autox events you will have a really good feeling of where the car lacks for YOU and actually tell if a mod made a difference.
If you're going for points, make sure you know the rules before you do mods. You don't want to end up in street mod with a bunch of monsters cuz you did a simple engine reflash and end up at the bottom of the pole, never being able to catch up.
If you're going for points, make sure you know the rules before you do mods. You don't want to end up in street mod with a bunch of monsters cuz you did a simple engine reflash and end up at the bottom of the pole, never being able to catch up.
Understand what modifications will land you into the different autocross classes, what cars you will be competing with, and try it. Then decide how you want to approach autocross and modify from there. Use a SNELL rated motorcycle helmet if you have one to save money.
I ran autocross in my old Miata and found it to be very OK. It's cheap compared to track days but spending an entire day for 5-6 minutes of drive time wasn't what I considered a worthwhile use of my time. As a result I modded that car and the Mini around what I want, not what an autocross class dictates. They were very different for me, and as a result I never got into autocross.
I just started autocross and last Sunday was my race in Novice, I spent 3 months working on a 03 MCS that I bought with 151,000 miles----there is a thread elsewhere with details but the jest of it is: if auto cross is something that you are really interested in I would go do one in the Novice class and not spend a dime on Mods until you do----what you have will work for the first time out. Unless you needs parts because your Mini is broke save the money and go try it. You may not like it and if you do you may want to consider trading your Mini in on a used Miata----it is much more suited to the autocross came----the Copper S is up in D/Street class and has very little hope of ever winning in a competitive class, anything other than a stock class becomes expensive and may not fulfill your needs. Unfortunately for me I do not fit into a Miata very well so I have stayed with the Mini and I am now in the D/S class with little hope of ever winning. The Gen1 Copper S belongs in G/S because it is under powered compared to it's competition----at the National level the Copper S is royally beaten. Anyway you do not need a National level car to give it a go and see if it something that you may want to pursue.
Yesterday I ran at MSCC (Martin Sports Car Club) Autocross at Tavares Fl in the Novice class and was up against a huge class of 32 cars, I believe it was a horsepower track with lots of Mustangs, Cameros, Turboed WRX's, Miatas and just a about everything else including a C-7 corvette. I was the only Copper. I came home with the win!! I firmly believe the win went to the best driver obviously not the best car. The C-7 with a decent driver would have wiped the course with me. There was a very fast Miata that should have beat me but he could not put a run together. So repeating what I said earlier give it a go, don't spend a dime on mods----find out if you like it. A lot of guys go to Novice----run once or twice and are never seen again. It is the Nut behind the wheel that needs the mods most of the time including me.








