I am about to purchase a new socket set. I haven't dug to deep into the car to see what is necessary. They make a universal kit that will fit "wired" bolt heads like star and box, etc. is this necessary or will a normal socket set with standard and metric work just fine?
Thanks

 

You'll run into regular metric bolts, star/torx, hex, and the occasional internal star/torx
Mostly, regular socket and torx.

 

Allot of metric socket sets do not come with a 16mm, you can use a 5/8" if you have.

 

Impact Wrench is a must!!!!

 

While you can "get by" with a 3/8" set for starters, you'll also want a good 1/4" drive set and a 1/2" drive set. Keep in mind that there are standard height sockets and deep well sockets, as well as 6 point and 12 point. Talk to a good mechanic about these differences...and remember to buy good quality. Buy or borrow a vibrating engraver tool and put your initials on each piece.

 

No standard tools are needed except for maybe lug nuts, every thing else is metric.

You don't need a weird universal set.

Just a couple torx sizes are needed. I think 30 is the one used most. The torx sockets are the easiest to use.

Like someone mentioned a good selection of 1/4 through 1/2 will be very helpful. A good selection of pliers including vice grips will also be needed.

Some essential tools for me include a hammer, pry bar, and a 1/2 breaker bar. An impact gun is great but until I got mine last year, my breaker bar had done the job for 25 years. A pipe to fit over the breaker bar is also sometimes needed.

A floor jack and jack stands will be one the most used tools so put that on your list if you don't have them.

Craftsman has served me well, they all have a lifetime warranty and rarely break. I've never broken a socket or wrench, just have had some ratchets wear out. They always fit perfect and for the money you can't go wrong. Snap on and some of the other brands are great if you are a career mechanic, but are just too pricey for the weekend dyi person.

 

don't try those 'universal' things.

What they do universally is fit poorly!

Kobalt from LOWE's is also good stuff.

avoid harbor freight for basic hand tools ..... they can be OK for stuff you rarely use, but for the basics you are better off with a good brand. money wisely spent in the long run. I still use craftsman stuff my father bought in the 50's

a couple of specialty items

While the car is metric, if you are gonna change your oil you want a 1/2 inch box wrench. Ignore what the books say, the oil drain is a 1/2"; and to get the oil-filter off you'll need a shallow 36mm-socket. http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop...cket_36mm.html

if you are gonna do your brake pads you'll need a 7mm allen socket to get the calipers off, and a torx T-50 socket if you plan to remove/change rotors (non standard items for most 'beginner' socket sets.) You can buy these individually ....

when ready to do rear brakes you may want a caliper retraction tool. This is a time when Harbor Freight can be used. I use: http://www.harborfreight.com/disc-br...-pc-63264.html but this can also work: http://www.harborfreight.com/four-wh...ool-68972.html

and I can't believe no one has mentioned a torque wrench ... esp with the alloy wheels on MINIs a torque wrench is highly recommended. You don't have to get super fancy, a simple beam type will work fine if you treat it well. Craftsman Beam Torque Wrench $23 at ACE

 

thanks for the info. I ended up buying a 215 piece kobalt kit with 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 sockets and wrenched. Seemed like a good buy for $100. I liked how it came with deep sockets as well as shallow. My oil drain bolt is basically stripped so too late to know it's 1/2, I just syphen the oil from the top, oh well, It works.

 

Wait... You need to get the oil hot and circulating so sludge and metallic shavings can settle near the drain. I'd say it's important to get that stripped bolt out and change the oil the correct way. My drain plug on my R53 was stripped when I bought it, had temporary "wolly molly" plug in there. I quickly replaced it with the magnetic plug made specifically for stripped drain pans. Makes oil changes super smooth also. I'd definitely suggest looking into that.

 

oil bung

I'm guessing the head is stripped and not the threads? You can get it off with something like this



then replace it with a fumoto valve .....www.fumotooildrainvalve.com