This is coming from my exhaust manifold and is before the cat. I can align the cat pipe, but if I start the car it slips away again. I see no missing or loose straps so I don't know what holds it. Can I tack this together with JB Weld or do I need to remove everything and take it to a welder?

Any help will be appreciated. My wife refuses to drive it so I'm in a bind.

 

Not a muffler man but is that a screen? I am wondering if you welded, that the screen would be impacted. A muffler shop could most likely weld, but with concerns of leakage, I am wondering if the piping would have to be dropped/removed from the engine so that the welding could be continuous all the way around.

Another possible option is a grooved clamp, but I don't know how a clamp like this would handle the heat. Get the pipe in place, goober some muffler seal, install the clamp and tighten.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=...80858701257855

 

R53-COOP,

Yeah it looks like a screen. The pipe on the left will align with the inter ring around the screen. I would consider wrapping it with a muffler patch/tape and using a clamp similar to what you suggested, but that would enclose the entire piece. The outside ring on the right side has that 1/4" gap and I'm afraid to tape it off.

 

Take the car to an exhaust shop or remove the header yourself and take it to an exhaust shop. Cut about 3/4" off of that outer sleeve and just have the header rewelded, we do them all the time. Make sure the break in surfaces "keys" back together before welding, don't grind the surface flat, you can realign everything and weld it in under an hour.

Exhaust tape, paste, etc doesn't really work. It really only makes the person who has to clean it all off upset, also, there isn't an option like those out there that can withstand the constant flex of the flexpipe.

 

nkfry,

That's exactly what I was doing when I got your response. Their comment was "we do this all the time. Mini should do a recall on their exhaust".

Thanks,

 

We've seen them welded back together. But the most important thing is to make sure before you pull it off you mark the parts so you weld them back in line right. If it's off just slightly the torquing of the engine will just break it again.
Normally we just replace the header with an aftermarket like our Flashpoint.

Also check your engine mounts as worn out mounts cause more stress on the exhaust and cause it to break like you have.

 

WayMotorWorks,

That was one of my concerns in addition to taking it off in the first place. Fortunately these guys welded it in place.

Damn, I thought I was done. Now I have to check the motor mounts. Any tips on that?

As always, Thanks guys.

 

The mount on the passenger side is the most prominent to fail, if you are okay with a bit more vibration I would recommend a Vibra-technics mount. It'll never fail again.

But for the trans and lower engine mount you can just use Powerflex inserts to take up the vacant space in those mounts to aide in keeping engine movement to a minimum.

When the passenger side mount fails you get a few indications; oil on the frame rail, black buildup on the bottom of the mount, clunks if it's gone on long enough, and for the early model mount the top of the mount will actually separate from the lower section.

 

Hey if it works great, it's hard to weld all the way around while it's on the car.

Yes check for the pass mount leaking oil as that is the sign it's failed. We use our TSW mount as a replacement when they fail.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/tsw-en...6-r50-r53.html

 

What year is your car as that leads to what type of front passenger side mount you have. If its silver, they are oil filled. You an check for oil stains, and these are the type that don't wipe off like motor oil as there other materials in the mount oil that gets really hard. You can also check this mount to see how far compressed the black rubber "seat" is pushed down with the motor weight. I just put a new mount on mine at the seat is about 1/4" off the top of the metal whereas the old one the seat was right on top the metal.

You should also have someone in the car with the hood open. Have them push down the accelerator while you watch the motor to see how it "rocks".

 

OK guys I need your help again. I can't figure out how many mounts I need. It seems like there are 3 for the engine – right front, right rear and left rear. The tranny only needs 1, but what about the ‘mount buffer’. Do I need one of those?

Thanks again,

 

Well I did it. I replaced the 3 motor mounts in less than 4 hours. It was not that difficult. It's amazing how much clunking you get used to over the years. Now it's much quieter. I guess I need to start thinking about replacing the tranny mount.

Thanks again.

 

my mechanic removed header at 60k, welded all around breakage point , reinstalled and it is quiet, and just passed Massachusetts emissions inspection @ 79k. I just replaced with a Miltek header if anyone needs a stock header , please let me know your offer price. Thx!!! Matt

 

I guess since my problems are at 104K miles, I should consider myself lucky. What else should I expect to fail?