Drivetrain Rebuild Time: 2005 R53
Thread Starter
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2nd Gear
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 79
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From: Goodyear Az
Rebuild Time: 2005 R53
Started hearing knocking noises while driving and holding speed (No acceleration or deceleration) yesterday. Tried to get a couple more trips out of it to work...It made it today but, it didn't sound like it'd make it another 10ft, so I will be trailering it home in the morning. At 177,000 miles its rebuild time.
Looking for input on what all will I need to or should change or replace, due to mileage, while i have engine out? I plan on replacing clutch, replacing crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer, water pump, belt tensioner and idler pulley and service the supercharger.
Would like to upgrade some and do some track days. A mild build. Intake/exhaust and supercharger pulley. Can I bore the engine and not mess with the computer? Anything else I should look into while I'm "in there"?
Any other thoughts, concerns, ideas, or cool new things out there I should look into?
Thanks!
Looking for input on what all will I need to or should change or replace, due to mileage, while i have engine out? I plan on replacing clutch, replacing crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer, water pump, belt tensioner and idler pulley and service the supercharger.
Would like to upgrade some and do some track days. A mild build. Intake/exhaust and supercharger pulley. Can I bore the engine and not mess with the computer? Anything else I should look into while I'm "in there"?
Any other thoughts, concerns, ideas, or cool new things out there I should look into?
Thanks!
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,607
Likes: 316
From: Arnold, MO.
What your planning already covers most of it.
As for the short block, you can bore and go oversized (77.5mm or 78.0mm, I'd suggest 77.5mm) without any issues as long as you stay with stock compression, it's the change in compression that will give you tuning issues.
I'd of course suggest decking the block for true, balancing and a high volume oil pump.
The OEM Mahle Pistons are actually really good, so going back to them and stock rods aren't a bad choice at all for what your planning. While not bad, bearings are the weakest point, I suggest the King's.
ARP Rod Bolts and Head Studs
Other than that it's pretty straight forward compared to most builds and swaps.
Do yourself a favor when doing the pull, take lots of pictures as you go along to refresh your memory on reassembly (esp the location of small brackets before you remove them) and take the extra time to use the bag and tag method with bolts or at least tape them to their associated brackets when you can, this will save you a load of time and doubt during re-assembly.
And if you paint, don't forget about ground points, Minis are very finicky with ground.
Thermostat and Gasket
Oil Cooler Seals
And if course Transmission Oil, and all the seals.
New Clutch Slave Cylinder, odds are the old one will not be reusable after disassembly.
Oh, since the axles are going to be out, now would be a good time to consider if it's time for a strut change.
That's all I can think of for now.
As for the short block, you can bore and go oversized (77.5mm or 78.0mm, I'd suggest 77.5mm) without any issues as long as you stay with stock compression, it's the change in compression that will give you tuning issues.
I'd of course suggest decking the block for true, balancing and a high volume oil pump.
The OEM Mahle Pistons are actually really good, so going back to them and stock rods aren't a bad choice at all for what your planning. While not bad, bearings are the weakest point, I suggest the King's.
ARP Rod Bolts and Head Studs
Other than that it's pretty straight forward compared to most builds and swaps.
Do yourself a favor when doing the pull, take lots of pictures as you go along to refresh your memory on reassembly (esp the location of small brackets before you remove them) and take the extra time to use the bag and tag method with bolts or at least tape them to their associated brackets when you can, this will save you a load of time and doubt during re-assembly.
And if you paint, don't forget about ground points, Minis are very finicky with ground.
Thermostat and Gasket
Oil Cooler Seals
And if course Transmission Oil, and all the seals.
New Clutch Slave Cylinder, odds are the old one will not be reusable after disassembly.
Oh, since the axles are going to be out, now would be a good time to consider if it's time for a strut change.
That's all I can think of for now.
Thread Starter
|
2nd Gear
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: Goodyear Az
What your planning already covers most of it.
As for the short block, you can bore and go oversized (77.5mm or 78.0mm, I'd suggest 77.5mm) without any issues as long as you stay with stock compression, it's the change in compression that will give you tuning issues.
I'd of course suggest decking the block for true, balancing and a high volume oil pump.
The OEM Mahle Pistons are actually really good, so going back to them and stock rods aren't a bad choice at all for what your planning. While not bad, bearings are the weakest point, I suggest the King's.
ARP Rod Bolts and Head Studs
Other than that it's pretty straight forward compared to most builds and swaps.
Do yourself a favor when doing the pull, take lots of pictures as you go along to refresh your memory on reassembly (esp the location of small brackets before you remove them) and take the extra time to use the bag and tag method with bolts or at least tape them to their associated brackets when you can, this will save you a load of time and doubt during re-assembly.
And if you paint, don't forget about ground points, Minis are very finicky with ground.
Thermostat and Gasket
Oil Cooler Seals
And if course Transmission Oil, and all the seals.
New Clutch Slave Cylinder, odds are the old one will not be reusable after disassembly.
Oh, since the axles are going to be out, now would be a good time to consider if it's time for a strut change.
That's all I can think of for now.
As for the short block, you can bore and go oversized (77.5mm or 78.0mm, I'd suggest 77.5mm) without any issues as long as you stay with stock compression, it's the change in compression that will give you tuning issues.
I'd of course suggest decking the block for true, balancing and a high volume oil pump.
The OEM Mahle Pistons are actually really good, so going back to them and stock rods aren't a bad choice at all for what your planning. While not bad, bearings are the weakest point, I suggest the King's.
ARP Rod Bolts and Head Studs
Other than that it's pretty straight forward compared to most builds and swaps.
Do yourself a favor when doing the pull, take lots of pictures as you go along to refresh your memory on reassembly (esp the location of small brackets before you remove them) and take the extra time to use the bag and tag method with bolts or at least tape them to their associated brackets when you can, this will save you a load of time and doubt during re-assembly.
And if you paint, don't forget about ground points, Minis are very finicky with ground.
Thermostat and Gasket
Oil Cooler Seals
And if course Transmission Oil, and all the seals.
New Clutch Slave Cylinder, odds are the old one will not be reusable after disassembly.
Oh, since the axles are going to be out, now would be a good time to consider if it's time for a strut change.
That's all I can think of for now.
I do plan on replacing the axles...One of the boots is leaking.
Won't be painting, just a bunch of cleaning while the engine bay will be open.
Been eyeing strut threads...might just get some included in one of the deliveries.
