Today I was trying to install a new downpipe, and two studs were very stuck. I bought a blowtorch to try and heat it up, and ended up snapping one of the studs clean off. The other stud wouldn't come out, and I didn't want to try it to the other one as I didn't want to break that one too.

I tried putting the new downpipe on and it didn't fit with the stud still in there. So now I'm back to the stock one, with one stud stuck, and another missing.

How can I clear out the hole so I can put new studs in, and how do I get the stuck stud out?

 

What level are your mechanical skills?

 

Evidently quite low... I do have some friends that are pretty mechanically inclined, but I'm not sure how many options I really have at this point that don't require either taking it to a shop or spending a ton of time myself taking out the entire turbo...

 

You could drill it out and retap it (kind of common) or remove the turbo and just find a used hot side of the turbo ($50). I have installed a lot of Mini downpipes and turbos, the studs are a pain. They seem to get seized about 40%, even on newer low mileage ones

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

Do you know about how much something like that would cost to get done? I don't really have any drill that would fit in the engine bay without having to take the turbo out, which since it's getting colder out now I don't want to have to do. I also don't really trust myself that much to do something like that.

 

Is there enough sticking out that you can grab onto?

 

No, unfortunately it's basically flush

 

Yeah, those studs are a bit itch to remove. I replaced all of mine with the newer shorter studs and before I attempted the removal, I did the old paraffin trick and they all came out pretty easy. I was going to recommend that you try that but you need to be able to have something to grab onto. I think at this point you'll have to drill it out as Mario said above.

Oh and by the way, I was not trying to make light of your skills. When it comes to drilling out a stud, I pay a mechanic to do that for me.

 

You are talking about the three upper turbo to DP? Dont run the turbo without all the bolts you can burn through the seal ring and melt the valve cover or even melt the cylinder head. you might retap the farthest out but you will most likely need to pull the turbo, its the best way for drilling and tapping. only use OEM or INCONEL studs and bolts. getting to the lower support braket under the turbo is a pain and can also be tight as well the lower return line is a pain use OEM o-ring. My preferred method is to pull the front lower the ac condenser onto a box, and attend to all the little leaks and such Im practiced at this so its just easier, it takes a little longer,,,,, but takes a frustrating job and makes it quite easy, since I seem to be alone in going the long way try doing it first then maybe the service position is another option. If you want a shorter stud for future work grind an OEM stud with the bolt on and clean with a file

 

I've got some WMW studs ordered already, and there isn't an exhaust leak with the bottom two bolts in... I kind of need the car, and only drive it in 5 mile increments to get to and from school... As soon as I get the studs in, I need to find some shop that'll be able to fix this. I _really_ don't want to have to take the turbo off... I'd rather just drill it out and use a nut on each side. Would I be able to go to the dealer for this, or should I take it to somewhere else?

 

Dealers are much more into replacing.... rebuild type work usually gets sent out, my friend rebuilds heads and dealers are a main customer, the thechs are perfectly capable but have rules. If you have to drive check it often and take it easy, If it leaks its not good but at least you know now, Way should be the right quality on the studs but I havent used them, I wouldnt want to take the turbo out either but you have to get it drilled somehow and it needs to center, you could try some automotive machine shops if you dont find a garage you trust, they have more tooling

 

Oh drilling out undersized first will often loosen the bolt/stud there are extractors to help turn them out, at this size you cant wrench hard, a broken extractor is not good they are tool steel, a right angle drill might get in position better, I usually start with a small bit to get it started and work up in size sometimes you have to grind the end flat to get a punch or small bit to center.

 

I appreciate all this info. I'll hit up some of my mechanical engineering friends to see if they've got any tools that we can try drilling this out with, and if not I'll look for some well-equipped garages. I'll be sure to check the bolts every other day or so, but as of right now after driving I'm able to stick my hand right next to the heat shield and it doesn't seem particularly hot, so I think I might be in luck as long as I make sure it stays that way.

 

If I end up with destroyed threads, is there a certain type of nut I need to use on the other side that can stand up to the heat?

 

I broke the top one too. Tried extracting myself, but failed. Ended up taking to the dealer. They removed the turbo and extracted the stud. Also got them to replace the other ones as well. Cost me about $500.

I think you'll need to use helicoil if you destroy the treads.

 

It can go and it wont give much more warning, It wont hold forever. If you have to use a through hole use a bolt and a nut but the surface needs to be flat or it may work loose over time, you could try going one size up and tap it. Stick with the alloy INCONEL

 

Where can I find INCONEL nuts and bolts?

 

YIKES! Hope I can get this fixed myself then.

 

usually ebay but it seems a bit low on these at the moment, perhaps KD fasteners, these are mostly aircraft type stuff so prices can be crazy Ive paid more like 15-30 for this size in small qty. the OEM is actually a good deal on inconel studs you can see high prices these are custom made stuff you should be able to find in stock or leftover, there was a turbo fabricator parts supplier that had studs and bolts but my bookmark is lost in the void at the moment they had stainless braided lines, banjo bolt, flanges, bends, seal kits I have to find them again

 

Is it possible to remove just the hot side from the turbo, or do I have to do the whole front end service mode + exhaust manifold removal + turbo removal + oil/coolant draining?

Also, I just watched a video where I found out you could loosen the bottom DP mounting bracket... If I had known this, the whole problem would've been avoided

 

Yep, those bottom DP brackets are slotted. Loosening them makes it easier to slip the DP over the studs.

Learned that by trial and error too. I had a stud strip out on me and had to retap the hole. Luckily it was the top hole so I had good access.

 

Mine's the top hole too, but I can't manage to fit a drill in there well, and when I tried cobalt bits they didn't seem to work very well... Basically made a divot, and that's about it.

 

I have never had good luck drilling out broken studs in place, it always seems to make things worse and I've done hundreds of broken studs. Just bite the bullet and take the part out and put it into a drill press to drill out the stud, where you can get a straight shot at the stud. There really isn't a short cut.

 

Drill presses are great......... you need slow speed, good pressure, and lube, going sideways I use some assembly lube or grease something that will stay put for a little bit dont run a dry bit. Drill bits come in various qualities even if they say cobalt etc. A twisted stud can get a bit of work hardening at the break, by hand it could take a few bits, Tooling feed rates is an actual job for some people. If you cut a dimple its at least cutting. If you cant get a good angle or the right pressure you need to try another way.

 

Hmm, okay. I'll try picking up a few more drill bits at some point as well as try and find a shorter drill, or maybe rent a right angle drill from home depot. I'll also look into getting a few small carbide bits to see if I can at least get a good pilot hole started, since I've heard they'll cut better than cobalt.