The clutch failed in our CMS less than a month after we bought it. The Mini only has 32k miles. So, today I decided to replace the clutch myself after studying a write up in the R56 forum. Initially I was of the impression the All4 would be more difficult, but after tonight not so much. I did hit a snag when I went to remove the driveshaft from the transfer case. I don't have a wrench big enough to fit the large nut at the front of the driveshaft as it's around 2" and nothing is open this late. Once the driveshaft is out I can drop the subframe and then go after dropping the transmission. Here are some pictures 5 hours into the job

 

Are you replacing with an OEM clutch or is there something more robust in the aftermarket?

 

Sachs dual mass flywheel and Valeo clutch and pressure plate There are plenty of robust options out there.

 

Finished the clutch job. The All4 makes it a bigger job. Took me a while to figure out how to remove the driveshaft. I could not find any info on which way the driveshaft nut loosens at the transfer box. Finally figured it out. It loosens toward the driver side. Then the transfer box has to be detached from the transmission in order to get to a bell housing bolt, but the transfer bax can not be removed until the transmission is pulled away from the engine. Ugh. The original clutch was wasted. The clutch plate on the pressure plate side was worn down to metal and the flywheel had micro cracks from the heat. The clutch failed suddenly and by the looks of shredded clutch plate material all in the bell housing, pressure plate and behind the flywheel I understand why. The clutch plate wore down to the rivets and then came loose all at once. Metal on metal gives no grip. Anyway here are a few more pictures.

 

Just had my 2015 R60 clutch replaced by the dealer (20k miles on the dot). Apparently this is STILL an issue...

 

How did you get the lower control arm out. I tried hammering it with a mullet but wont budge

 

I dont think thats recommended!

 

mAllet but seriously, what is the best way to get it out?

 

Was it covered under warranty?

 

Wow.. When I was in the process of buying my countryman, the carfax sheet said the clutch was inspected. So I had to call the dealership that did the inspection and ask them what that meant on the carfax. The SA ran the vin and came back that they replaced all the clutch related items under warranty because of the faulty material. That was the tipping point to buy or not was if the clutch was done..

 

I removed the ball joint from the wheel spindle with a small chisel to work it out. There was a lot of corrosion. This methods does not damage the ball joint.

 

i will try that. did you use a 50mm to get the transfer case freed from the shaft?

 

Don't tell anybody, but I used a pipe wrench on the driveshaft nut and big channel lock pliers on the transfer case. When I pulled on the pipe wrench the channel lock wedged in place on the sub-frame. It sounds rudimentary, but worked. Replace the nut and your good to go.

 

Thank you for posting this.
I will be doing this on my wife's 2012. The Bentley manual does not include the All4 cars. It is the first All4 clutch replacement I've seen on the web.


Car is about to hit 50k miles. Clutch still grabs but it's "tricky" sometimes and once in a while I tend to ride it a bit switching gear.

 

How'd you get the transfer case to come clear of the transmission? I got mine about 90% of the way out and then the transfer case ran into the lower control arm. I really want to avoid pulling the transmission to get the dang transfer case out. I'm just replacing the transfer case in my '12 CM as it's humming and leaking.

 

I'm curious if you had removed the splined shaft from the transfercase before attempting to remove?

 

I had removed the sub frame before removing the transfer case. To get clearance for the transfer case the transmission has to be moved over an inch or two.

 

Are you guys removing the circlip with splined shaft first as shown in the third image?

 

I did not, are you saying the whole shaft slides out of the TC housing? Not seeing how that is accomplished in the pics. Wait, the clip holds the shaft in, then the whole shaft must be able to shift to the right and out of the tranny. HOLY CRAP, I'm going to check on my new (used) transfer case and see if it's really that easy.

One last question, how do you replace the nut and seal on the transfer case that attaches to the rear driveshaft at the transfer case, got a procedure on that one?

 

Yea I believe these posts about having to move trans/ hitting control arm is because that step is being skipped and there is no room.


Hold on I will post the procedure for the big nut. It's a reverse thread single-use nut.

 

as requested

 

Beautiful, you just saved me $400 my friend. I plan on taking apart my bad transfer case to see if I can figure out what fails in these things. I literally have to put new oil in my TC every day as it is dripping out of the tail shaft seal that connects to the rear driveshaft. The fill plug magnet has been full of metal as well for the last month, it must be ugly in there.

I am planning on documenting my replacement with pics for anyone else out there that needs to replace their transfer case.

All said and done I have spent the following (so far)

$864 for a used transfer case on ebay
$20 for a new driveshaft seal and nut
$20 for Royal Purple 75W-90 GL5 gear oil (for the transfer case)
$20 for Royal Purple manual transmission oil (don't remember the viscosity)

All in $924 for a new (used) transfer case

 

That would be great. I was just going to ask you if you'd mind posting some pics. There is not much All4 specific how-to stuff out there.


As a side note- To perform the oil solenoid repair harness on an All4, the transfer case must come out. Are you doing this while you have it out? I sure would....

 

check car-part.com for the TC. should be cheaper in there

 

Solenoid was already replaced by the dealer under warranty about a year ago

Thanks for the guidance!