R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Harmonic Balancer

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Old May 25, 2016 | 10:03 AM
  #1  
AT Productions's Avatar
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From: Springfield, MO
Harmonic Balancer

So I just got exauhst on my 06 MCS and a few days later my car keeps going into limp mode and smoking and I notice the car isn't as quick as Normal...
I take it in they say nothing is wrong
The next day it goes into limp mode once again...
Take it back in they say your harmonic balancer and belt is bad and they want
$1068 to fix it
Should I go OEM or what any ways to possible cut that price in half
And yes Ik most of the $$ is labor
Thanks guys/girls
 
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Old May 25, 2016 | 10:27 AM
  #2  
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From: Harbor City, CA
Do you have tools and are you DIY savvy? If so, we have a DIY that can help you with the replacement yourself. Having the right tools for the job will make it much easier. The DIY is on our site under MINI > tech info (tab at top) > Engine > Crankshaft Pulley Replacement. I suggest you take a look at it to see what tools and parts are required and then see if you feel you'd be able to do it yourself. Otherwise, if you find a local MINI indy shop I'm sure the price for the repair would be much less as you can see the price for the pulley is below and our article states it should take the average DIY'er, with the proper tools of course, about an hour.

Pulley http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item1

 
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Old May 25, 2016 | 10:31 AM
  #3  
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No, go with an ATI or PRW balancer. That are both dampened and considered to perform better than the OEM unit. The PRW is around $250 and the ATI, $350. A great way to cut the price is to find a good independent MINI garage to do the work. I would think labor for the balancer should be $200-300.
 
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Old May 25, 2016 | 10:44 PM
  #4  
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From: Milwaukee, WI
I just did this and bought the ATI.
Save the $$$ on labor and DIY. I rented a removal tool for nothing and just bought the correct metric bolts for a few $$ from a hardware store to remove. Bought a new crank bolt and seal, but didn't use the seal, (probably wouldn't need a new crank bolt either, just use loctite)...if it ain't broke.
With the money you'd save, you can get a new belt, keep the old as a backup and have the belt removal tool. It actually wasn't too difficult to do.
Once you remove the pulley, you'll see how it's split and the cause of the codes. The Bentley manual tells you it's the crank pulley with certain codes, (it's in their diagnostic without guesswork section, and sure enough, that's what it was).
 
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Old May 26, 2016 | 07:10 AM
  #5  
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bavmotors
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From: Near Buffalo NY
Ati is a great product, I'd use a new bolt however and grab a seal in case it's leaking. I'd be careful replacing the seal, has to be perfectly seated, you don't want to have to change it out again later. This job can be a major pain, some pulleys refuse to budge, some pop right off. Mine refused to come off, makes the job take a lot longer or can result in a tow to the shop.
 
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Old May 26, 2016 | 08:29 AM
  #6  
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ZippyNH
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From: Southern NH
I went with the ATI...but the PRW unit is cheaper and will get the job done.
OEM is just a bad design....it will happen again...and the aftermarket units are cheaper.
 
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Old May 26, 2016 | 09:02 AM
  #7  
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From: Tucson, AZ
I used a Speedmaster pulley for around $175, if memory serves. No problems and many miles since. The job was pretty easy.
 
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Old May 27, 2016 | 08:23 PM
  #8  
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drrigg
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From: Duluth, GA
I used the Speedmaster, too, about 1000 miles ago because had to pull the pulley to change the main seal. Seal came off using nothing but fingernails. Did the change myself and the hardest part was getting the belt off without the official tool.Took about an hour total. No leaking since.
 
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Old May 31, 2016 | 12:47 PM
  #9  
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Webhead68
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From: Central, FL
I went with the ATI Super Damper and bought the pulley removal tool from a vendor. It was cheap and now I have one if any local MINI people need the tool.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2016 | 01:43 PM
  #10  
betterways's Avatar
betterways
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by drrigg
I used the Speedmaster, too, about 1000 miles ago because had to pull the pulley to change the main seal. Seal came off using nothing but fingernails. Did the change myself and the hardest part was getting the belt off without the official tool.Took about an hour total. No leaking since.
Where did you get it? I can't find them for sale. I'm looking at my options. ATI for $350 or OEM which can be found as low as $130. For my 11 year old low mile '05 S.

I've heard something about a redesign of the OEM part. So are replacements any better/longer lasting than the original?
 
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Old Aug 9, 2016 | 02:11 PM
  #11  
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Well, I bought it off the Speedmaster79 site. Just looked and they may not make them anymore. Mini doesn't show up under "Make". If you search for "Mini Cooper", the balancer/damper/pulley does show up, one for the 1st gen and one for the 2nd, but 1st gen shows "out of stock". Bummer. Mine still works well.

You could call Speedmaster and ask.

Jeremy
 
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Old Aug 9, 2016 | 07:40 PM
  #12  
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Zsm
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From: SF Bay Area - Nor Cal
Sounds like there's been no change in availability of the speedmaster pulley.

Ended up with the PRW off Amazon for a little more $$ than the Speedmaster. Glad my son and I replaced it. The outside looked fine, but the side facing the engine was separating about 25% around the perimeter. (You could hear it knocking on the timing case as well.)

The PRW pulley went on easily and has performed with no issues.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2016 | 08:10 PM
  #13  
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From: SoCal
Mine would not budge with the generic puller from Autozone. Had to buy the Mini specific tool and it took less than five minutes to remove.
 
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