R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Silicone Intercooler Couplers

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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 12:37 PM
  #1  
JaysinStrife's Avatar
JaysinStrife
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Silicone Intercooler Couplers

Anyone running the Alta or DDM couplers? I just got mine on, but I'm having a terrible time getting the stock locks/bolts on over them. Any advice? Can they be run without, as long as the diverter and such are tightened down tight? I had the clamps started, but it seems like they won't secure all the way like the stock ones did. Any and all help/advice is appreciated.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 01:23 PM
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Saltysalt
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From: Dover, NH
i have the alta, the only issues that I had was getting the coupler over the post IC side. try moving them a bit back and forth to try and get a decent clamp, cause they could be longer than the seating areas. which would make it harder to get the clamps on. I cant imagine that the silicone is going to be that much thicker between all of their units
 
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 01:32 PM
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They seem pretty thick. As thick, or maybe a tad thicker, than my Venair intake hose. Spent about 30 minutes trying with the clamps then took a break as to not get angry, haha.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 06:19 AM
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Anyone else have some feedback?
 
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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 06:32 AM
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ZippyNH
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There are a few hundred posts on this subject.... The silicone couplers look cool, and are cheap...but make a 5 minute job into a nightmare... Get them on wrong...you get a code.
IMO new OEM ones every 5-7 years are the way to go...
Folks have tried soaking them in boiling water and putting them on hot..have read everything... Putting a round band of rubber on an oval opening is not a good option.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 10:59 AM
  #6  
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Well we got them on, but haven't started the car yet. I was mid oil change when I realized the Fumoto valve I bought was defective. So I'm waiting to hear back from Out Motoring about replacing the new valve I just bought. Then I can finish my oil change and see if there are any codes :/
 
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Old Apr 27, 2016 | 04:17 PM
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KevinR
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From: Macon, GA
I bought a set of Alta couplers from a user here on NAM. They were a complete pain to install. I did manage to get the clamps on and have not had any leaks or lights since. I can't really tell you exactly how I did it, because I tried so many different approaches until I found one that worked.

Based on my experience, I would stick with factory rubber couplers.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 06:39 AM
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As stated, factory couplers are the way to go. The silicone looks cool, but for most is a pain to install, and even when fully clamped down can still leak. The 4-5 ply silicone couplers are too thick for the stock clamps to lock down as designed, and can cause boost/vacuum leaks.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 07:05 AM
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^This^
 
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 10:29 AM
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I bought a pair of DDM in red to match my car before reading all the horror stories surrounding them. Just popped them off last night for a supercharger service. Can't say I had any extra problems with them vs. the stock ones and I like the color. Installing a bigger intercooler with silicon couplers was a lot harder on a WRX than installing these in an r53.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 04:25 PM
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Da_Ghost
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From: Québec, Canada
Originally Posted by pikwit
I bought a pair of DDM in red to match my car before reading all the horror stories surrounding them. Just popped them off last night for a supercharger service. Can't say I had any extra problems with them vs. the stock ones and I like the color. Installing a bigger intercooler with silicon couplers was a lot harder on a WRX than installing these in an r53.
I heard that the DDM aren't as bad to install, that might be why. I have the Alta ones and it probably took me longer than swapping the s/c pulley!
 
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 05:03 PM
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From: Southern NH
Originally Posted by Da_Ghost
I heard that the DDM aren't as bad to install, that might be why. I have the Alta ones and it probably took me longer than swapping the s/c pulley!
And remember.... If you have a GP or GP IC, the intercooler must come off to swap the plugs out...something that is suggested be done with each inspection 2....so every 30,000 miles or less.
 
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