I have a 2007 R56 Mini Cooper (base model/ non-turbo) 6-speed w/ 91,2XX miles on it. It has a loud rattle that is really starting to p*ss me off. It only comes around after the car has been driven and starts to appear as the car is idling after coming to a stop. I give it a little bit of gas and it goes away for a few minutes at times and at other times it comes right back.

I replaced the timing chain assembly (Chain, Guides, Tensioner) less than 200 miles ago. I also replaced the two VANOS solenoids, the spark plugs, did an oil and filter change, and the vacuum pump. The rattle went away for a few days but then came back a few days ago. I used a screwdriver to locate the area. It is loudest at the drivers side at the vacuum pump. The oil level is topped off as well.

I've been searching every site I can find and have yet to find any likely causes. I'll get the car warmed up and try to take a video.

 

First off, welcome to mini problem's!!!!!
I've been in the same boat with my r56's N14..
replaced pretty much ever thing but the vanos solenoids..
now am not sure about the non s motor but i've accepted that the motor's are just noise....
bmw- tech help's will tell you to remove the vac line form the vacuum pump and see if the sound go's away. and if it does don't worry about it. its a normal sound/.. or does it sound more like a lifter tick> try ruining some sea-foam through you're power plate and see if the sound go's away long shot but its worth a try. but keep in mind you'll need to do a oil change about 500 after the sea-foam.
but as far a getting a fix its a never ending problem, best of luck mate ..

 

Here is the video I made of the rattle.

 

Sounds loudest at the vacuum pump.

Is there any way to do a short test with the vacuum pump disconnected?

 

It is the loudest at the Vacuum Pump. I just replaced the Pump but I will go give it a shot and test it out with out the pump connected.

 

I just got it to rattle again and disconnected the vacuum pump. Nothing changed. So I just got some SeaFoam to clean the intake valves. I'm going to let the SeaFoam soak in for a few then test drive the car. I'm really starting to think that there is an excessive amount of carbon build up. Also looks like it isn't going to be cheap if I have to take it in to a shop so I might have to put my other car up for sale to pay for this whole mess to be straightened out. I am really starting to regret ever buying this Mini...

 

Ohhoohho's that sounds more like piston slap then any thing!!! It's just a video so I really can't say for sure! YouTube Mini Cooper piston slap.. But I've heard enough Minis with that sound' it's almost sounds like my 1.9 tdi .. You have any kind of metal shavings in the oil??

 

It doesn't do it on start up at all, only when warm and idling for a few minutes after driving. And there are no metal shavings in the oil.

 

I did the put a long screw driver to the block and head and the noise is coming from the valve train area.

 

most likely not carbon, was the noise there before you did the chain?, also what is the reason to have the chain replaced? guide broken?
Sounds like something internally, Piston slap, like someone else mentioned, or an issue with a valve spring, if you noticed anything while you were doing the T-chain? Maybe pull the valve cover off again and closely inspecting valves, lifters, rockers, etc.

 

The noise was there before the timing chain was replaced. The car is about to hit 100k and I decided I'd rather be safe than sorry. I inspected the cams and lifters before I put the valve cover back on. Nothing seems wrong. If I can't get this solved the car is going on Craigslist and I will never touch another newer Mini or BMW ever again. It is p*ssing me off to no end right now.

 

If you have the means to do a compression test, do it and see if there are any abnormal numbers, if not, bring it to a reputable shop or dealer and have them have a look at it, no point throwing parts at it, just needs some diag done, looks like you already spent a lot of money on newer parts, I would pay for a couple of hours diag to have a pro look at it and go from there,...
my $0.02

 

A couple of hours at any shop here in Denver is a couple of hundred dollars. I'll look into it when I get paid again.

 

they do have there problems but I wouldn't go that far as never owning one again! When you open you're vavle cover what color is the inside of the head, maintenance is key with the mini ! I change my oil 2 times a summer and I only drive it 3 or 4 months out of the year and that's only on the week ends when am home!

When you rev the rpms up does it get louder ! What's you're oil leave at? It's definitely something that is major. Feel you're pain and frustration had the same thing happen to me when I first got my r56's... Best of luck mate

 

I'm not the original owner so I am not sure of it's past but I change the oil every 4,000 miles and always make sure it is at the top mark on the dipstick. The coloring under the valve cover is kind of an orangeish brown. I have owned other cars and trained to be a mechanic for GM and this is just another car I am adding to the list of cars to never own again with as many issues as it has.

My 1978 Audi Fox is WAY more reliable than this car has ever been.

Here is a pic I took last weekend when I did the timing chain. The spark plug wells were full of oil.

 

Hahah sorry you feel that way, my best suggestion would be sale the mini and delete the thread

 

That's the plan BigBoost. If I ever get another Mini it will be an original made by Austin, Morris, or Rover and not by BMW / Peugeot / Chrysler. I used to work at a body shop that had an original 1967 Mini Woody Wagon as the parts runner. I got the Mini I have now because of how fun the 67 was.

My only question now is that if the same problem exists in both the N12 and the N14 why is only the N14 covered under the recall for the problem?

 

Use an engine stethoscope against the UCH and other parts in that area to isolate where that racket is coming from. Also looks like your valve cover is leaking on Right side...?

 

How did you clean all that grit off the cams, assuming you did clean it before reassembly.

 

I wiped them all of with a clean rag before I put it back together. It was just dust that settled over night.

It was leaking in all but one of the spark plug wells and around the edges. A new gasket set fixed that issue.

 

The engine Stethoscope is definitely on my to do list.

 

after seeing the photo on my laptop! they look more like metal shavings!!!! on the cam!! hard to tell from a photo tho

 

It's not metal shavings. Just some dust. I guarantee it.

 

I worked for GM for too long to not be able to identify metal shavings from dust and a crappy picture...

 

Looks like dust from what i see. When you take the valve cover off watch not to tip it and knock dirt off the cover in there.