any tips for putting down power? Sweepers are the worst I get massive wheelspin, and I get some wheelshake too, new control arm bushings next thing to check is motor/trans mounts I think?!?!?

can probably hear the spinning it in this vid from Saturday I just cant get traction on those sweepers


turns at 15sec and 38 sec were killing me, still got best in class and in won novice out of 35 but there is so much room for improving on those sweepers

 

I should mention, 2005 MCS running in D-street so very few basically no mods allowed

 

You have lsd? Stickier tires?

 

I have 205/45/16 RE71-r on 16x7 enkei rpf1's. No LSD I don't think it was an option in 2005 so I can't add it and stay in D street

 

Thats what i was going to say sticky tires and tire pressure a makes a difference. I would check those front end components , make sure you are not flexing and bouncy around under load. PF or superpro if you have not done them already.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ll-joints.html

 

In Stock, a lot of your success will be with a modified driving technique. Focus on getting the wheel unwound as soon as possible so you're not cooking the inside tire. Your approach and speed into a corner will be a little different from conventional wisdom, but if you can get the car slowed down so you can unwind faster and be on the power sooner. Experiment with that vs. carrying momentum through the corner. Also play with elevated rear tire pressures and reduced front pressures. Put a bit of white shoe polish where the sidewall meets the tread and keep reducing front pressures until you're scrubbing to the very edge of the tread.

Now if you're a racer who has zero integrity there are a few good ways to cheat, but I would never recommend such a thing...

 

I would add a rear sway bar. It is allowed in the street category(section 13.7). Also, 2005 was the first year you could get a factory LSD and would be allowed if you can find one.

 

Go cam underneath to watch how wheels and suspension are working, some one posted the rear wheel lift in auto cross so I tried it very informative on improving.

 

You've done an alignment for maximum front negative camber? Added a larger rear sway bar to help the car rotate?

This 2005 MCS is claimed to have a factory LSD option:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...eful-mods.html

Street tires dethroned the MINI in D Street.

 

I did not think we could get any camber in front

powerflex are a no go, cannot switch to poly, I've been trying to find solid rubber front control arm bushings, but no luck, I have brand new oem lenforder in right now

I have a 22 hollow hothckis swaybar on medium, lots of wheel in the air, and I spun out on one run, never spun out on a front wheel drive car before

afaik the re71-r are the tire to have right now

 

This is the run I spun out on

 

There is always wiggle room in an alignment, I do my own now with laser lines and levels getting better all the time. a dead-blow hammer is helpful.
a good g sensor or app that shows progressive g's

 

so looks like lsd was factory option for jan 05 build on, I guess that means I can add it that's a big help right there! just gotta find a used oem lsd now

I do my own alignments but I have the shop check, laser level I need to get a better camber gauge though

 

Ah.. should you try your own alignments remember to bounce the shocks and roll the car forward a bit for final checks.

 

a good level on a make-shift stand and measuring always seems good to me

 

My $.02.

Wider tires if you can. I am running those RE71's and they are great. Also the tire pressure comment is another thing to check. If you run a few more in the rear it will usually help front tire traction.

Lastly on that one turn and with these FWD cars get the braking down early and get the turn done before wanting to get into full throttle. The cars want to push a ton so technique is key.

Have fun out there.

 

Hmm Im not stock,, wavetrac lsd etc. and r56 but I can skitter around and use power if i brake at all or dont push throttle then I start to jack up and get understeer, ok if I need to scrub speed from going in too hot. if I brake I brake hard and realy shift the geometery what brake pads are you using I like hawk.

 

wider than the 205's on a 7" wheels? I wish I could run my 8" wheels

what pressure are you running? I started at 35 both ends, after 3 runs they hit 39 I let the fronts down to 32 but left the back at like 38, that's the run I over-steered and lost the back end

I have hawk pads in, I forget which ones but they said for autocross

 

Yes sorry I assumed you had 8" so I am running 215. That helps.

I am actually running 45 rear and 42 front HOT temps. I think it would be close to 42/38 cold, not sure. With the KW's this last time I actually ran better with all four corners at 42. With stock suspension I needed to have a bit extra in the rear.

With suspension work which sounds like is not an options you will continue to push and struggle rotating the car in AX "on power" I would think. For me and remember I am no expert I found via many of my instructors that we really worked on braking early and set the turn set up before getting on power.

Here is my last and best run so maybe you can get something from it. You can really see on the 90'degrees and the hairpin that I really got the car rotated before getting on the power.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3x...ew?usp=sharing

Sorry the video has no sound as it was all wind and couldn't hear the engine.

 

I run 215's on a 7 inch rim. and as for the factory LSD, I have one in my 05. makes a big difference in corners. then obviously the stickiest tire you can run in your class. some toe in may also help with the front end grip

 

Tire sidewall is key i think and so different these days. I run higher rear roll bar and higher damping on the rear with coil overs and leave the rear about 1/4- 1/2 high not sure if shims are ok for your class. but I am now using lower rear tire pressure. 36 front and 30-32 rear even 28. getting the rear to load faster is good but only if you get more slip angle twist on the tires. only helps if the fronts hold is not compromised so you need good sidewalls so the contact patch stays down. I would try many different tire pressure set ups I even change pressures depending on temps outside or how I feel like driving today,, even uneven pressures for my favorite turn ever change up the run. do you get the hawk pads warmed up even a bit hot. do you have some old rubber around to practice full skid stops. dont mean to cause controversy I just always try lots of different stuff with cars Im also more into how I feel in a corner than if its fastest.

 

The straight road is always the longest

 

Done many auto X's from 2004+ in my MINI, looks like you just lost some grip and correctly very quickly, I did not see much lift up. Are the tires sticking also ? , watch because when you are on asphalt sometimes you loose grip when a section of the track loosen up the gravel and you loose traction.

 

8" wide wheels are not allowed, can go +-1" from oem, so 16x7 is what I went with.

I can go to dual adjustable shocks so that's in the works for later this year not sure what yet, probably koni yellows I have to stay on stock springs though.

I'm surprised nobody offers a solid rubber front control arm bushing, due to the rules preventing poly

 

on the sweepers I'm having traction issues on it's the front spinning pretty much until I am able to straighten out the wheel. Spinning madly I might add, I've been attacking corners liek I would with my rwd bmw's, relearning old habits is hard