R50/53 Timing Guides DIY
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Timing Guides DIY
Hey guys,
2 weeks ago I changed the tensioner and guides in my girlfriends r53s. Using this site I was mostly successful. While I didn't take pics I wanted to post my trials and tribulations to help those in the future.
First off, you cannot just 'remove the guides with one bolt each' which is what I was under the impression of when I tore into it. I thought I could sneak the guide past the chain/gear and ended up breaking a piece off the guide.
You need to remove the pulley from the camshaft and the chain from the upper pulley. Be sure to tie the chain/pulley together and mark the relation of the two to each other. I tied them to the hood latch with some yarn. I scribed them but thought I didn't do it deep enough until I got real close, lesson learned; use white out or a paint marker. Maybe scribe too as a back up. Remember to clean the surface with alcohol/brake clean first.
I used this timing tool http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Mini-Coo...744370?vxp=mtr. It fit really snug. I was worried because I read an amazon review of one not having the proper dowel spacing and the guy had to cut/weld the tool to make it work. Luckily mine fit great. I just had to have the gf rock the crank bolt a little to allow the tool to slip in. I couldn't find any instructions so I don't know what the other pieces in the kit do. On my engine the camshaft was keyed to the gear.
After the fact I read that the timing gear bolt it TTY, so if you are reading this before attempting to take everything apart buy a new bolt. I'll found the torque spec in this french pdf that I can't seem to find at the moment. It's out there though. So far so good on the reused bolt.
Tensioner:
I didn't need a wobble extension to get it off but I wish I had one. I ended up finding a combination of socket/wrench that was thin enough to slip in behind the oil cooler. Installation from the top by hand then tightening with the wobble extension was great.
Remove the liner, it makes things so much easier.
The tensioner goes with plastic bit towards the bolt. By some magic I guess it will unclick and expand against the guide when the motor gets started.
I accidentally forgot to plug in the coil pack which inadvertently allowed me to turn the engine over a bunch to prime the oil system without the car starting, might wanna try it.
Be careful when putting the intercooler on, make sure you can nicely slide it left and right before tightening the screws. This will tell you if you folded the lip of the tube over. I did that and got a bunch of codes due to the boost leak and was able to figure it out.
Sadly the engine still has the death rattle but at least I know it's not the tensioner or guides.
Good Luck!
2 weeks ago I changed the tensioner and guides in my girlfriends r53s. Using this site I was mostly successful. While I didn't take pics I wanted to post my trials and tribulations to help those in the future.
First off, you cannot just 'remove the guides with one bolt each' which is what I was under the impression of when I tore into it. I thought I could sneak the guide past the chain/gear and ended up breaking a piece off the guide.
You need to remove the pulley from the camshaft and the chain from the upper pulley. Be sure to tie the chain/pulley together and mark the relation of the two to each other. I tied them to the hood latch with some yarn. I scribed them but thought I didn't do it deep enough until I got real close, lesson learned; use white out or a paint marker. Maybe scribe too as a back up. Remember to clean the surface with alcohol/brake clean first.
I used this timing tool http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Mini-Coo...744370?vxp=mtr. It fit really snug. I was worried because I read an amazon review of one not having the proper dowel spacing and the guy had to cut/weld the tool to make it work. Luckily mine fit great. I just had to have the gf rock the crank bolt a little to allow the tool to slip in. I couldn't find any instructions so I don't know what the other pieces in the kit do. On my engine the camshaft was keyed to the gear.
After the fact I read that the timing gear bolt it TTY, so if you are reading this before attempting to take everything apart buy a new bolt. I'll found the torque spec in this french pdf that I can't seem to find at the moment. It's out there though. So far so good on the reused bolt.
Tensioner:
I didn't need a wobble extension to get it off but I wish I had one. I ended up finding a combination of socket/wrench that was thin enough to slip in behind the oil cooler. Installation from the top by hand then tightening with the wobble extension was great.
Remove the liner, it makes things so much easier.
The tensioner goes with plastic bit towards the bolt. By some magic I guess it will unclick and expand against the guide when the motor gets started.
I accidentally forgot to plug in the coil pack which inadvertently allowed me to turn the engine over a bunch to prime the oil system without the car starting, might wanna try it.
Be careful when putting the intercooler on, make sure you can nicely slide it left and right before tightening the screws. This will tell you if you folded the lip of the tube over. I did that and got a bunch of codes due to the boost leak and was able to figure it out.
Sadly the engine still has the death rattle but at least I know it's not the tensioner or guides.
Good Luck!
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