If you were to buy a parts kit containing every part that typically fails or needs replacing before 100,000 miles for an R55 or R56 with N14 engine, what would it contain and at what mileage would you install the parts? What jobs make sense to do together?

My list so far is:

1. Timing chain, guides and tensioners around 45,000 miles.
2. Intake valves walnut shell blasted and the High Pressure Fuel Pump replaced around 55,000 miles.
3. Struts around 55,000 miles (for improved handling).
4. Thermostat, housing, coolant around 60,000 miles.
5. Transmission fluid and filter around 60,000 miles.
6. Spark plugs around 60,000 miles.

I've read that the vacuum pump, heat exchanger/oil cooler gaskets, oil feed and return line, vanos solenoid, water pump, valve cover and gasket are commonly replaced. Any others? I am not very familiar with the layout of the parts, so which jobs make sense to do together?

My 2009 Clubman S with automatic transmission has just over 60,000 miles now and I'd like to make it to 100,000 miles without any unexpected repairs. It currently has a small oil leak possibly at the turbo oil feed line or back below it and I might like to be proactive and replace other parts while I'm in there, especially since I am not exactly sure where the oil leak is...

 

Let me tell you a story about what a friend did recently, he spent $10,000 dollars on an old Merc and months later one valve got stuck in the open position, it was stuck in the valve guide. My point is you can throw money at your Mini all you want and still have a chance at a possible broken burnt valve throw a wrench into the machine. How about that automatic transmission, you sure it's going to last? You could total it in an accident next week, lol.

I have already replace 1-6 with exception to the HPFP at 60k.

 

That's a good point. So one vote for repair the problems as they come.

 

If you find yourself replacing the oil filter housing gasket (if this is your leak) by all means go ahead and replace the heat ex-changer gaskets and the turbo oil feed line since there all located in the same place.

 

That's the type of advice I am looking for. Thanks for that.

 

I appreciate that you are looking to be proactive. Is this your only source of transportation? The reason that I ask is that most parts are available in 2-3 days online, and I don't see anything on the list that would be catastrophic and take your car out of service.

Next time that you change the oil, look at the bottom of the coolant resevoir. Mine had a crack in it that was a slow leak.

Carbon cleaning should be done every 25k miles or so. It makes a noticeable difference.

When you have to replace the water pump, replace the accessory belt at the same time, you need to remove it anyway during the service.

When you go after the oil filter housing gaskets (and related items as described above), get a new exhaust clamp at the same time, yours is likely rusted and won't cooperate. Just cut off the old one and replace it.

Other than oil changes, plugs, carbon cleaning, just keep an eye out for leaks. Keep your engine clean so that you can spot a leak.

Enjoy your Clubbie!

Mike

 

Mike, thanks for your response. I had the carbon cleaning done around 55,000 miles. They took photos before and after. Wow the valves were thick with buildup! Noticeable improvement in performance.

In a couple months the Mini will be my only vehicle and I am thinking about doing the turbo oil lines and surrounding oil filter housing and heat exchanger gaskets before I sell the other car. I want to build my confidence in knowing the future of my Mini. I plan to keep it a long time.

I bought the Detroit Tuned super kit which has the exhaust clamp and gasket, oil filter housing gaskets, feed and drain lines, banjo bolts and washers, and OE feed line heat shield, but I still need to buy the heat exchanger gaskets, and Mini Mania has a nice looking oil feed line heat shield that is tube-shaped rather than wrap-around, so I think that it will work better than the OE shield but of course requires the line to be disconnected in order to install. Maybe I can use both shields if there's space.

 

So you are buying and/or replacing parts before they fail so they wont fail?

Please help me understand this...

 

It's what happens when we get obsessed with our cars. Ha

 

In my opinion if the OP is replacing parts that are known to fail after a certain mileage (oil filter housing gaskets), I support it because leaking oil and or coolant when driving down a freeway for a long trip (100 miles or more) can have consequences if not caught in time like a warp head! If you're at 50-60k and have never replaced the oil fed line to the turbo it's about time to replace it. I say get those gaskets replaced only if there at the average known life expectancy. When it comes to possible oil or coolant loss from the same gasket I'm paranoid about it and keep a watchful eye on those parts.

I have reason enough to be paranoid because 3 weeks ago I was driving down I5 interstate freeway when my oil filter housing gasket start dumping coolant a half a mile on the freeway, I'm lucky because the oil filter housing gaskets channel 2 oil and 2 coolant passages.

 

If any of you are wanting DIY on how to fix these parts that fail, please let me know! I am acquiring a list as we just got in an R56 JCW and will be doing many tech articles on it. Here is what we have so far.

-Luccia

 

A very helpful DIY list of common jobs that will save the DIY'ers loads on labor costs!

 

We will be most certainly covering the basic maintenance needs, but want to know what other things that may be common to fail that you all see most often. Want to make sure we can attempt to help you all save as much as you can with ease of mind that you have a good guide to help you through the process.

-Luccia

 

Hi Guys(and Girls),
Just bought a 2012 Convertible(R57??) with 7K miles! Having a ball driving this oversize Go-Cart, and having to keep my wife in her Cadillac. She has decided the Mini is more fun to drive(Duh!).
Plan to keep it for 4 years then pass it to #1 Grandaughter when she turns 16. Since son-in-law does not know how to change a light bulb, I have to get it ready for her to drive without any immediate break downs at that time(4 years from now). I figure about 60K miles by then. Will timing chain need to be replaced by then? What is the carbon cleaning I am reading about? I do oil,filter, air filter changes etc. Pass on water pump replacement to my trusted Mechanic. All help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Sam

 

Welcome to NAM, Sam! May I suggest you start your own thread here in 1st gear so that you get the proper welcome?

Congratulations on the new purchase as well!

-Luccia

 

Don't forget the auto tranny fluid drain/fill every 10k especially if it hasn't been done yet you are already behind

 

Every 10k for tranny fluid seems ludacris and 100k isn't enough, your tranny fluid is good from anywhere between 30-60k miles in general for most cars. I changed my tranny fluid at 50k and won't do it again for another 50k.

 

up to you. the trans is undercooled and uses conventional fluid. if you don't change it at all expect it to fail completely at 80k. to drain/fill 2.5 qts takes the same time as changing engine oil so it's no big deal to do it every two engine oil changes.

 

That's the most absurd thing I have ever heard on NAM, changing your tranny fluid every 10k is insanity! There's not one member here that will swallow this recommendation. You will never hear of anyone changing the transmission fluid every 10,000 miles, not even 20.

 

Just to clarify, I'm talking about a drain/fill of 2.5 qts. You have to do this at least 3-4 times to get most of the original fluid out. If you don't want to do it, then don't.

 

Hold on a minute we went from talking about how often to change the tranny fluid to how one should drain/fill of 2.5 quarts 3-4 times to get the most of the original fluid out. We were talking about how often you should change your tranny fluid. What is the reason you believe that the tranny fluid should be replaced every 10k miles?

Do you know that BMW's specifications for tranny fluid is 75W-90 MTF-LT4. Do you know what the MTF-LT4 spec pertains to?

 

If you read my original post in this thread you will see I'm talking about an automatic transmission and drain/fill 2.5 qts of fluid. I believe you are talking about the manual transmission. The OP has an auto trans, hence my post.

 

I just did the second fluid change on my auto trans last night after about 18k miles after the first one. It is not hard, even though the process seems intimidating. I regret not starting this sooner. I dropped the pan to get as much out of the system as possible (and see if there is any debris in there).

With what I know now, if I was starting to maintain a MINI, I would do oil changes and tire rotation every 5k miles. Every 25k I would do carbon cleaning, spark plugs, air filter, and ATF change. Brakes are as-needed.

Doing the ATF more frequently couldn't hurt, because once you are familiar with the procedure it is pretty simple, and $30 worth of fluid isn't expensive. The point is to change fluid before trans performance suffers (unlike me waiting until 88k to do this).

Have fun,
Mike

 

Don't forget the Drive Belt (Serpentine Belt). See separate thread on this. It's quite small on the Mini and is threadbare by 50k. Mine lasted 73000 but resembled a rubber band when it was removed.

I also do a partial drain & fill of the automatic transmission fluid every other oil change.

 

Thanks for your input! Basically the dealer says "Don't maintain your auto transmission at all" and "Barely maintain your engine (oil)". Then when your auto tranny fails like clockwork at 80k they can charge you $9k to fix it or sell you a new car. Win-Win for the dealer. Even people that religiously take their car to the dealer are on the losing end due to the absurd change intervals. My service adviser said to "never buy a used mini, because you don't know the maintenance records especially on an automatic". Hard to argue with that.

If you have a used auto Mini, I highly recommend an immediate drain/fill of 2.5 qts with synthetic then every 10k (because it takes 3-4 drain/fills to flush out the original fluid). It is a small price to pay versus a valve body replacement or complete overhaul/replacement.