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R56 Having trouble with exhaust clamp

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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 09:04 PM
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Having trouble with exhaust clamp

I've been spending the last 2 hours trying to accomplish a seemingly easy task, but for some reason I'm having a helluva time.
I'm trying to re-seal the oil pan on our 07 Straight Cooper and have every bolt out except one. The one bolt isn't the issue, but the exhaust clamp blocking it is. It's at an angle that keeps me from getting a socket on the pan bolt, even with a rotating head.
I've tried loosening the bolt with a breaker and have used about half a can of penetrant, but no luck. The bolt moves/bends and I'm not sure what the problem is. I've encountered other clamps, but not this one.
So, is there some witchcraft that I should be utilizing or is the nut just rusted to the bolt and I have to cut it and get a new clamp?
Any help would be appreciated!!
Having trouble with exhaust clamp-img_20150324_222354_392.jpg
 
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by creativityasaweapon
[...] the exhaust clamp blocking it is. It's at an angle that keeps me from getting a socket on the pan bolt, even with a rotating head.
I've tried loosening the bolt with a breaker and have used about half a can of penetrant, but no luck. The bolt moves/bends and I'm not sure what the problem is. I've encountered other clamps, but not this one.
So, is there some witchcraft that I should be utilizing or is the nut just rusted to the bolt and I have to cut it and get a new clamp?
Any help would be appreciated!!
Not sure how many miles on your car, but mine had 56K miles when I had to remove mine for turbo oil line repair job. The tread was nearly mangled due to the corrosion. It took significant amounts of repeated PB blaster application, but getting a socket on one end and open end wrench on another (wedged to the body of the car) finally allowed me to take it off. If the thread wasn't going to cooperate, I was going to keep torquing the nut off until it was going to come off, or sheer the bolt.

I had a spare clamp, exhaust gasket, and bolt on the assumption that something like this may happen. The clamp could have been re-used, but all spare parts weren't that expensive ($12 for all?).

a
 
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 10:08 PM
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Thanks! Unfortunately for my wife, I won't be able to finish this tonight so it looks like she'll be playing hooky!
Pardon the noob question but, I'll be able to pick this up at an Advanced or similar shop right? Living in Northern WI means no Mini dealers and even worse, there's not a shop in town that has done more than an oil change on one as far as I can tell.
Thanks again!
 
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Old Mar 26, 2015 | 04:39 PM
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I really doubt that you can get that local. It a V band clamp.


I use Kroil, and an impact gun. Heat is last your friend. IF you have a pro pain torch, or better yet MAPP gas, or best is an oxy act torch. That clamp sees some very high temps from the turbo outlet.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2015 | 06:20 PM
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Yup, definitely couldn't source it locally. I got it off though. I've heard so much about PB that I went out and bought some. I wouldn't say it worked like a charm, but it worked better than anything else I've ever used!!
The job is done and I've found out that the oil pan is not the main culprit. All signs pointed to it and it certainly was, but not as bad as I thought.
Whatever is leaking is doing so only when running and will leak about a teaspoon in 10 minutes. I've ran the car and slid under it to see if I could pinpoint it, but no luck.
Would anything from the timing chain creep over and look like a pan leak? We had the chain replaced a year ago, but the shop that did it raked us over the coals and I personally don't feel 100% about the job they did.
The car sounds ok on start up, but after idling down, there is an occasional ticking that seems to be coming from the chain side.
Thank you for you wisdom once again!
 
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Old Mar 26, 2015 | 06:30 PM
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There is also the Tracerline leak detection system. A UV dye system that allows you to spot leaks.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2015 | 07:45 AM
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Here is the clamp if you need a new ones, the old ones can pretty hard to get off. PB blast it and try again. If not cut it off and make sure you have a new one.


18302756351 Exhaust Clamp ( NON S ) Cooper

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/18302756351/




You can put a little anti-seize on the threads and then tighten it up..
 
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Old Mar 27, 2015 | 01:55 PM
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The oil filter housing is bolted to the block, and the seals can develop a leak over time. Check to see if your leak is near the driver side of the engine, up under the oil filter where it connects to the block.

Mike
 
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Old Mar 28, 2015 | 09:24 AM
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When you say straight cooper, do you mean non S? Not sure about the non S, but the vacuum pump can leak on the S model. It is mounted on the drivers side of the head. I also had to replace the oil filter housing gasket. Then noticed the vacuum pump was leaking.?
 
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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 06:09 AM
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Yea, think creativityasaweapon said straight Cooper = Non S and what it looks like in the pic. But we can wait to see confirmation. Don't see anything in the signature.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 09:25 AM
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Sorry for not replying sooner. It is indeed a Non-S and I've tracked the leak to the oil filter housing. Looks like I'll be getting that V-clamp because mine is pretty bent up.
Thank you for all of the help! NAM has helped me save quite a bit of coin!
 
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 12:33 PM
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Welcome.
 
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