I just won 10% off bushings.

What are the easiest bushings to replace in a 2005 Mini Cooper S R53?

Something I could pretty easily do myself.

Also what bushings should I replace? I know some are better not replaced with poly if you want a softer ride. So which ones will improve my performance, but also not stiffen the ride too much?

 

They're not easy, but the front control arm bushings are a "must-do" on any R53.

Waymotorworks sells them pre-pressed into the brackets to make them "easier" but it still sucks.

I like my lower engine mount bushing inserts. Cheap, easy, and feels good.

I wanted to try the rear trailing arm bushing inserts but never did.

 

Also anti-sway bar bushings. All of my cars run Polyurethane bushings so thumbs up to the mod.

 

I would do the control arm bushings. They aren't easy, but I wouldn't say difficult either, and as was mentioned before get the pre-pressed ones.

Unless you have very low mileage I wouldn't bother with inserts on the other mounts as the mounts probably should be replaced anyway. I had a collapsed main mount, 2 ripped mounts, and a totally worn out trans mount so I just replaced them all. I'm not sure how effective an insert would've been.

 

Dang... I looked at the control arm bushing replacement and that looks like it's more time than anything. It's not that it's hard it's just a long process.

Anything that I could do in under 3 hours? With little to no experience?

 

How difficult / how long does that take? Hopefully shorter than Control Arm bushings?

 

For the front, no. You have to disassemble the same amount, if not more, to get to the sway bar. Also the stock bushings are just fine for the sway bar, no real reason to change it if it's your daily.

3-4 hours should be enough if you don't run into issues, but you never know what can get you stuck along the way. Like you said it's not difficult, just tedious. Don't listen to any of the "tricks" to cut them out or anything, you want to drop the subframe properly or you're setting yourself up for headache.

Here's a good guide: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...me_Removal.htm

The hardest parts are reaching the power steering pump connections, and reaching the steering rack bolt. As you lower the subframe it's easier if you have someone with you that can guide the power steering tank through the bracket, otherwise you end up lowering a little, then getting up to check clearance. Same for when you go in reverse.

Once the subframe is lowered enough swapping out the brackets with pre-pressed bushings is a breeze.

 

the front control arm bushings are by far the most common to wear out and the most important to replace. So get those first.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/powerfl...shing-kit.html

but if you want to get as much as you can I would also look at doing the engine bushings as they are a nice upgrade and reduce engine rock.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/powerfl...shing-set.html

 

Not sure that I would bother with an arguably unnecessary bushing replacement to take advantage of a 10% discount. Especially if you have concerns about NHV...

 

Yup,listen to this guy...with some bushings you are talking about saving $5.....

Rear sway bar bushing is a common issue that can cause clinking noises and is very very easy to do...maybe 20 minutes?

 

Personally, I would do new OEM balljoints, and powerflex sway bushings and control bushings all in 1 go if none of them have been replaced yet, since they are all MUCH easier to do with the subframe out anyway.

 

That sounds like a good idea to me. 20 Minutes is very do-able.

I don't really have the garage space or time to tear the subframe apart. That's something I would have to do once I get another car to drive. Since I probably wouldn't complete it in one day.

I do have a knock sound as well in the rear, so I wonder if that's what I am hearing. I'm not sure.

Thanks for all the help guys!