R50/53 At 154K, looking for some help to keep my mini running!
At 154K, looking for some help to keep my mini running!
So after a recent spurt of dropping roughly $4000 in fixes for my 2003 Mini Cooper S, I'm at a pass of whether or not I should get rid of my Mini...
I've been having problems left and right and just can't seem to get back on track. Finally I've gotten rid of the major annoying issues. But, it's still not performing in top shape.
My question is, what should I do to get another 100K out of my Mini? I've sucked at maintenance. Pretty much all I've done was the coolant, oil, brakes, and anything else that really failed.
Here's my current list of known issues:
- Engine knocking/pinging
- Higher pictched sound when cold. Sounds like a pulley may be going (Supercharger?)
- Never changed the supercharger oil
- Never changed the fuel filter
- Never changed the clutch/flywheel (Sounds like Chewbacca but still engages well)
- Never changed timing chain
- Burning up oil quickly. Don't notice any leaks.
- Automatic door locks broken
Here's a list of recent repairs:
- New Windshield
- Replaced Oil Pan gasket (Obviously Oil change as well)
- Two new axles
- Replaced Radiator
- Replaced Engine mounts
- New Borla Exhaust
- Got a used set of Rims (really need a paint job)
I guess I'm looking for opinions on the best places to start on getting my mini running in tip top shape. I'm a little broke and kinda have to take this a piece at a time.
My ideas for now:
- seafoam treatment
- replace fuel filter
- change oil in supercharger (probably the hardest thing)
Any other cheap ideas?
I've been having problems left and right and just can't seem to get back on track. Finally I've gotten rid of the major annoying issues. But, it's still not performing in top shape.
My question is, what should I do to get another 100K out of my Mini? I've sucked at maintenance. Pretty much all I've done was the coolant, oil, brakes, and anything else that really failed.
Here's my current list of known issues:
- Engine knocking/pinging
- Higher pictched sound when cold. Sounds like a pulley may be going (Supercharger?)
- Never changed the supercharger oil
- Never changed the fuel filter
- Never changed the clutch/flywheel (Sounds like Chewbacca but still engages well)
- Never changed timing chain
- Burning up oil quickly. Don't notice any leaks.
- Automatic door locks broken
Here's a list of recent repairs:
- New Windshield
- Replaced Oil Pan gasket (Obviously Oil change as well)
- Two new axles
- Replaced Radiator
- Replaced Engine mounts
- New Borla Exhaust
- Got a used set of Rims (really need a paint job)
I guess I'm looking for opinions on the best places to start on getting my mini running in tip top shape. I'm a little broke and kinda have to take this a piece at a time.
My ideas for now:
- seafoam treatment
- replace fuel filter
- change oil in supercharger (probably the hardest thing)
Any other cheap ideas?
I wanna say the obvious, spark plugs and air filter
supercharger may be on the way out, youll know when the water pump fails. timing chain shouldn't need replacing, maybe the guides? doubt it.
as for clutch, it engages, its good... dual mass sounds a bit knackered, no need to replace unless you have to.
check the crank pulley
check your motor mounts
check bushings and bearings around the wheels
fuel filter usually last the life of the car unless you have dirty fuel
supercharger oil usually is the life of the supercharger/PTO gears
Check your Belt tensioner, and if you haven't, replace your serpentine belt
these engines are ticky, have to expect that, since they are codeveloped by the mericans.
whats the oil consumption? check your crank sensor, could have a bit of a weep there
supercharger may be on the way out, youll know when the water pump fails. timing chain shouldn't need replacing, maybe the guides? doubt it.
as for clutch, it engages, its good... dual mass sounds a bit knackered, no need to replace unless you have to.
check the crank pulley
check your motor mounts
check bushings and bearings around the wheels
fuel filter usually last the life of the car unless you have dirty fuel
supercharger oil usually is the life of the supercharger/PTO gears
Check your Belt tensioner, and if you haven't, replace your serpentine belt
these engines are ticky, have to expect that, since they are codeveloped by the mericans.
whats the oil consumption? check your crank sensor, could have a bit of a weep there
I wanna say the obvious, spark plugs and air filter
supercharger may be on the way out, youll know when the water pump fails. timing chain shouldn't need replacing, maybe the guides? doubt it.
as for clutch, it engages, its good... dual mass sounds a bit knackered, no need to replace unless you have to.
check the crank pulley
check your motor mounts
check bushings and bearings around the wheels
fuel filter usually last the life of the car unless you have dirty fuel
supercharger oil usually is the life of the supercharger/PTO gears
Check your Belt tensioner, and if you haven't, replace your serpentine belt
these engines are ticky, have to expect that, since they are codeveloped by the mericans.
whats the oil consumption? check your crank sensor, could have a bit of a weep there
supercharger may be on the way out, youll know when the water pump fails. timing chain shouldn't need replacing, maybe the guides? doubt it.
as for clutch, it engages, its good... dual mass sounds a bit knackered, no need to replace unless you have to.
check the crank pulley
check your motor mounts
check bushings and bearings around the wheels
fuel filter usually last the life of the car unless you have dirty fuel
supercharger oil usually is the life of the supercharger/PTO gears
Check your Belt tensioner, and if you haven't, replace your serpentine belt
these engines are ticky, have to expect that, since they are codeveloped by the mericans.
whats the oil consumption? check your crank sensor, could have a bit of a weep there
Bushings were done a like 2 years ago with Powerflex, replaced my serpentine belt maybe 3 years ago. Think they need replacing at all?
How bad am I looking for the supercharger? I'm seeing kits for upwards of $1500 (Way Motor Works).
Thanks for the tips!
Using oil would be my main concern. How much oil do you need to add, quarts/mile? You need to figure out where the oil is going. Might be time to perform a compression check on the cylinders. If low compression it might be time to give up on the Mini due to your long list of problems that will suck a lot of money at a repair shop.
Figure out what is causing the knocking/pinging. Could just be plugs, wires, and coil. Check the coil contacts for corrosion.
Need to listen to determine what pulley is making noise and oil or replace it before it seizes.
I would suspect within the next 100,000 miles you will need to replace many big dollar items such as the supercharger (do not worry about replacing the oil just wait until s/c dies), water pump, clutch, clutch cylinders, fuel pump, lower control arm bushings, and struts.
Figure out what is causing the knocking/pinging. Could just be plugs, wires, and coil. Check the coil contacts for corrosion.
Need to listen to determine what pulley is making noise and oil or replace it before it seizes.
I would suspect within the next 100,000 miles you will need to replace many big dollar items such as the supercharger (do not worry about replacing the oil just wait until s/c dies), water pump, clutch, clutch cylinders, fuel pump, lower control arm bushings, and struts.
Using oil would be my main concern. How much oil do you need to add, quarts/mile? You need to figure out where the oil is going. Might be time to perform a compression check on the cylinders. If low compression it might be time to give up on the Mini due to your long list of problems that will suck a lot of money at a repair shop.
Figure out what is causing the knocking/pinging. Could just be plugs, wires, and coil. Check the coil contacts for corrosion.
Need to listen to determine what pulley is making noise and oil or replace it before it seizes.
I would suspect within the next 100,000 miles you will need to replace many big dollar items such as the supercharger (do not worry about replacing the oil just wait until s/c dies), water pump, clutch, clutch cylinders, fuel pump, lower control arm bushings, and struts.
Figure out what is causing the knocking/pinging. Could just be plugs, wires, and coil. Check the coil contacts for corrosion.
Need to listen to determine what pulley is making noise and oil or replace it before it seizes.
I would suspect within the next 100,000 miles you will need to replace many big dollar items such as the supercharger (do not worry about replacing the oil just wait until s/c dies), water pump, clutch, clutch cylinders, fuel pump, lower control arm bushings, and struts.
That's my major concern. Whether the high dollar items are worth it.
The thing that sucks is my Mini was in a couple accidents (repaired by BMW/Mini dealer exclusively). So, resale value is low.
I love this freakin car and drive it over 120 miles a day for work. It gets me from point A to point B. If it ever gets to the point I just may keep it as a project car and take my time with it. I don't see getting much value from anyone.
Or, I can try to trade it in and get the $1000 - $2000 they're probably going to offer me...
As far as oil, I'm gonna say probably 1 Quart per 1000 miles. I probably get more out of it. Like I mentioned I drive almost 600 miles a week for work.
The R53s usually do not burn much oil but 1 qt/1000 is not horrible. The new turbo Minis burn more than that.
Knocking/Pinging could be something serious or something simple. If serious that might tip the scale towards selling.
If you like the car and want to keep, you will have some large repair bills over the next 100,000 miles. You will need to budget for those repairs.
To bust your chops a little, it looks like you need to spend your money on basic repairs rather than Borla Exhaust and Rims. The exhaust and rims are going to be no good if the car does not run.
Knocking/Pinging could be something serious or something simple. If serious that might tip the scale towards selling.
If you like the car and want to keep, you will have some large repair bills over the next 100,000 miles. You will need to budget for those repairs.
To bust your chops a little, it looks like you need to spend your money on basic repairs rather than Borla Exhaust and Rims. The exhaust and rims are going to be no good if the car does not run.
The R53s usually do not burn much oil but 1 qt/1000 is not horrible. The new turbo Minis burn more than that.
Knocking/Pinging could be something serious or something simple. If serious that might tip the scale towards selling.
If you like the car and want to keep, you will have some large repair bills over the next 100,000 miles. You will need to budget for those repairs.
To bust your chops a little, it looks like you need to spend your money on basic repairs rather than Borla Exhaust and Rims. The exhaust and rims are going to be no good if the car does not run.
Knocking/Pinging could be something serious or something simple. If serious that might tip the scale towards selling.
If you like the car and want to keep, you will have some large repair bills over the next 100,000 miles. You will need to budget for those repairs.
To bust your chops a little, it looks like you need to spend your money on basic repairs rather than Borla Exhaust and Rims. The exhaust and rims are going to be no good if the car does not run.
Haha I'm totally fine with that! Thanks for the busting.
They were actually major repairs. My exhaust was rusted through and wouldn't pass inspection. New mini exhaust was like twice the cost so I said **** it. $780 for the borla cat back new.
Rims I got in a deal for an old van I owned. I need them because the pot holes in PA destroyed two of my rims and they weren't holding air anymore. Sooooo those were kinda free lol
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That makes sense on the exhaust and rims.
Maybe you can do a little cost trade off on spending money on your current Mini or the monthly payment on something newer.
Usually it is cheaper to keep something running then getting something much newer.
Think about what you might get instead of the Mini and how much the newer vehicle will cost if making monthly payments over 36 months, don't forget interest. Also figure in a little higher auto insurance. Plus if you get a used car there will still be some repair costs to plan for.
Now estimate the repair costs for the Mini over the next three years (probably close to 100,000 miles for you). I would at least plan supercharger, clutch, struts, and lower control arm bushings+ball joints. Clutch, struts, and LCA bushing/ball joints should be done at same time to reduce labor cost. Each month put money into a savings account (similar to making monthly payments on something newer) so it have it for these large dollar repairs.
See which works out less per month, Mini or newer car. You can also plan in a little fun factor if the Mini is more fun than that is worth a little extra money per month.
Maybe you can do a little cost trade off on spending money on your current Mini or the monthly payment on something newer.
Usually it is cheaper to keep something running then getting something much newer.
Think about what you might get instead of the Mini and how much the newer vehicle will cost if making monthly payments over 36 months, don't forget interest. Also figure in a little higher auto insurance. Plus if you get a used car there will still be some repair costs to plan for.
Now estimate the repair costs for the Mini over the next three years (probably close to 100,000 miles for you). I would at least plan supercharger, clutch, struts, and lower control arm bushings+ball joints. Clutch, struts, and LCA bushing/ball joints should be done at same time to reduce labor cost. Each month put money into a savings account (similar to making monthly payments on something newer) so it have it for these large dollar repairs.
See which works out less per month, Mini or newer car. You can also plan in a little fun factor if the Mini is more fun than that is worth a little extra money per month.
That makes sense on the exhaust and rims.
Maybe you can do a little cost trade off on spending money on your current Mini or the monthly payment on something newer.
Usually it is cheaper to keep something running then getting something much newer.
Think about what you might get instead of the Mini and how much the newer vehicle will cost if making monthly payments over 36 months, don't forget interest. Also figure in a little higher auto insurance. Plus if you get a used car there will still be some repair costs to plan for.
Now estimate the repair costs for the Mini over the next three years (probably close to 100,000 miles for you). I would at least plan supercharger, clutch, struts, and lower control arm bushings+ball joints. Clutch, struts, and LCA bushing/ball joints should be done at same time to reduce labor cost. Each month put money into a savings account (similar to making monthly payments on something newer) so it have it for these large dollar repairs.
See which works out less per month, Mini or newer car. You can also plan in a little fun factor if the Mini is more fun than that is worth a little extra money per month.
Maybe you can do a little cost trade off on spending money on your current Mini or the monthly payment on something newer.
Usually it is cheaper to keep something running then getting something much newer.
Think about what you might get instead of the Mini and how much the newer vehicle will cost if making monthly payments over 36 months, don't forget interest. Also figure in a little higher auto insurance. Plus if you get a used car there will still be some repair costs to plan for.
Now estimate the repair costs for the Mini over the next three years (probably close to 100,000 miles for you). I would at least plan supercharger, clutch, struts, and lower control arm bushings+ball joints. Clutch, struts, and LCA bushing/ball joints should be done at same time to reduce labor cost. Each month put money into a savings account (similar to making monthly payments on something newer) so it have it for these large dollar repairs.
See which works out less per month, Mini or newer car. You can also plan in a little fun factor if the Mini is more fun than that is worth a little extra money per month.
I test drove a 2014 Hyundai the other day (brand new) that had all of the features I have on my current Mini. It was nice and everything. But, definitely not as fun.
unlike the OEM ones that go every 30K - 60K, especially on bad roads.
The serpentine belt won't last forever, but at least it's pretty cheap and easy to replace.
Also debating keeping it and fixing it as I can.
I have gone thru the same debate. My Mini has 220K on it. and was in an accident last year. I need a paint job and interior still. Insurance paid me 8500. I bought it back and repaired it to drive and now have 2000 in it. I still have 6K to spend. I will be redoing a full interior replacement from a Gen 2. and Upgrade to some JCW parts. When I paint I want to go to a color that mini never offered. This weekend I am rebuilding my suspension in full. My car still pulls hard. I will rebuild the car in full. and when the engine goes it will get a new one. I want to put 400K miles on this car. and 20 years of commuting. I love the car. I like the way it handles and do not wish to have car payments for what I already have. Just rebuild it. Get a supercharger from here. just keep looking. I got a low milage one from here for $400 before I needed it. My other supercharger did not eat the gears so I have it as a spair.
I like how I can upgrade the interior, put in a JCW steering wheel, new paint and trim and I will feel like I have a new car. What I need is another one so I can commute and repair at the same time.
I like how I can upgrade the interior, put in a JCW steering wheel, new paint and trim and I will feel like I have a new car. What I need is another one so I can commute and repair at the same time.
serpentine belt recommended by mini is every 60k miles, with a pulley it should be every 50k, so maths wise, you should have replaced the belt 3 times. a compression test takes about 15 min and tells you the health of the motor. if low compression, you know you need new piston rings or if you head/valves need some love
don't worry about the bushings, should be set, urethane takes a long time to break down!
as for the supercharger, they are normally about 700-850 to get rebuilt for the PTO gears, I think that 1500 option is the fully ported and polished new unit. as for ticking, nothing may be wrong with the motor, these w11 engines are noisy
burning a qt of oil every 1k miles actually is preety high for our motors, at that rate, you don't need oil changes cause your putting in 5 qts every 5k miles.... which is my oil change, I prolly lose about a 1/2 quart- 3/4 quart every 5k miles
don't worry about the bushings, should be set, urethane takes a long time to break down!
as for the supercharger, they are normally about 700-850 to get rebuilt for the PTO gears, I think that 1500 option is the fully ported and polished new unit. as for ticking, nothing may be wrong with the motor, these w11 engines are noisy
burning a qt of oil every 1k miles actually is preety high for our motors, at that rate, you don't need oil changes cause your putting in 5 qts every 5k miles.... which is my oil change, I prolly lose about a 1/2 quart- 3/4 quart every 5k miles
Fix what you got is way cheaper.
My other vehicles is an 87 wrangler that I traded for an 87 cherokee . I had probably 4k in the Cherokee with lift and tires and cost of vehicle. I got about a 5500 dollar wrangler as a trade. Anyways, I have had the wrangler a few years now and I keep thinking about selling it for something else but then I think about the cost of the wrangler versus getting something else. The wrangler costs about 70-80 to fill up. I fill up once a month, sometimes less because I ride my bicycle to work so the wrangler gets minimal use. I can trade my low mileage 87 wrangler Laredo which has every option and auto trans and hope to get something close to comparable or I can keep it and still put hardly any miles and have it for a play truck. I am keeping it. So far, I pulled the stroker and stock drive train out and have put a small block ford with ford drive train in. I have 600 bucks in the swap so far. Now I will have the wrangler I have always wanted for almost nothing and I know every bit of what's wrong with it because I have taken everything on and off the jeep. Should I give that up hope to get something as dependable and then gain a payment or have to spend money to get something else?
No way man. I will keep my old jeep and swap out whatever I feel like to make it fun. When I get old and cannot drive it anymore, it should sell for a bunch of money since the doors and hardtop are the original ones front the factory and so is the ac system.
Keep your mini and build it so its fun and you know it inside and out. It will mean more to you and be more fun that way.
My other vehicles is an 87 wrangler that I traded for an 87 cherokee . I had probably 4k in the Cherokee with lift and tires and cost of vehicle. I got about a 5500 dollar wrangler as a trade. Anyways, I have had the wrangler a few years now and I keep thinking about selling it for something else but then I think about the cost of the wrangler versus getting something else. The wrangler costs about 70-80 to fill up. I fill up once a month, sometimes less because I ride my bicycle to work so the wrangler gets minimal use. I can trade my low mileage 87 wrangler Laredo which has every option and auto trans and hope to get something close to comparable or I can keep it and still put hardly any miles and have it for a play truck. I am keeping it. So far, I pulled the stroker and stock drive train out and have put a small block ford with ford drive train in. I have 600 bucks in the swap so far. Now I will have the wrangler I have always wanted for almost nothing and I know every bit of what's wrong with it because I have taken everything on and off the jeep. Should I give that up hope to get something as dependable and then gain a payment or have to spend money to get something else?
No way man. I will keep my old jeep and swap out whatever I feel like to make it fun. When I get old and cannot drive it anymore, it should sell for a bunch of money since the doors and hardtop are the original ones front the factory and so is the ac system.
Keep your mini and build it so its fun and you know it inside and out. It will mean more to you and be more fun that way.
Well to help you out, you should consider getting some engine oil additive and flushing out the gunk out of your piston rings. That's usually the problem with these engines consuming oil (changing oil in too long of intervals). It might work, give it a shot.
Each engine I rebuild has seized up piston rings because of oil grime on them. Just FYI.
Another item to look out for within the next 100,000 has to be the power steering pump. These run about 6-7 hundred. You can try inspecting the fans and flushing the fluid to squeeze out more life.
Sorry to threadjack, but I'm curious about this interior swap. Will R56 seats bolt right in, or is there some fabricating involved?
I have gone thru the same debate. My Mini has 220K on it. and was in an accident last year. I need a paint job and interior still. Insurance paid me 8500. I bought it back and repaired it to drive and now have 2000 in it. I still have 6K to spend. I will be redoing a full interior replacement from a Gen 2. and Upgrade to some JCW parts. When I paint I want to go to a color that mini never offered. This weekend I am rebuilding my suspension in full. My car still pulls hard. I will rebuild the car in full. and when the engine goes it will get a new one. I want to put 400K miles on this car. and 20 years of commuting. I love the car. I like the way it handles and do not wish to have car payments for what I already have. Just rebuild it. Get a supercharger from here. just keep looking. I got a low milage one from here for $400 before I needed it. My other supercharger did not eat the gears so I have it as a spair.
I like how I can upgrade the interior, put in a JCW steering wheel, new paint and trim and I will feel like I have a new car. What I need is another one so I can commute and repair at the same time.
I like how I can upgrade the interior, put in a JCW steering wheel, new paint and trim and I will feel like I have a new car. What I need is another one so I can commute and repair at the same time.
Well to help you out, you should consider getting some engine oil additive and flushing out the gunk out of your piston rings. That's usually the problem with these engines consuming oil (changing oil in too long of intervals). It might work, give it a shot.
Each engine I rebuild has seized up piston rings because of oil grime on them. Just FYI.
Each engine I rebuild has seized up piston rings because of oil grime on them. Just FYI.
http://blog.bavauto.com/12170/bmw-an...nd-protection/
Any thoughts? Will the seafoam treatment I've seen help with that?
How do you suggest to do that? Did a quick google search and found this:
http://blog.bavauto.com/12170/bmw-an...nd-protection/
Any thoughts? Will the seafoam treatment I've seen help with that?
http://blog.bavauto.com/12170/bmw-an...nd-protection/
Any thoughts? Will the seafoam treatment I've seen help with that?
I would go ahead and use the LiquiMOLY treatment (it's the best oil and additives you can find. I also recommend their CeramTec or MoS4). Just follow the directions they have. Some will tell you to add it 100 miles before changing the oil and driving with the additive in the oil. Others will tell you to just add it right before changing the oil but just run the engine for 20 minutes at idle. Depends really on what they say.... It's getting cold now and so leaving the engine to idle might not heat up the pistons enough in my opinion. Read up on LiquiMOLY's website and see what they recommend.
Since you have an OIL BURNING, KNOCKING MINI with 154k, I would do a compression and a leakdiwn test....maybe some valve wear, maybe some ringwear....
Might not be worth limping the motor on...or might be worth fixing the head or a used motor swap....
Don't just Pour $$$ into a hole hoping to fill it...
Might not be worth limping the motor on...or might be worth fixing the head or a used motor swap....
Don't just Pour $$$ into a hole hoping to fill it...
A couple threads on it...minor modification of a airbig plug it reuse the old one...
Grayraven has done it..pretty sure...a complete diy with great pictures (not his, but a great pro quality thread)...was active just last week.
Since you have an OIL BURNING, KNOCKING MINI with 154k, I would do a compression and a leakdiwn test....maybe some valve wear, maybe some ringwear....
Might not be worth limping the motor on...or might be worth fixing the head or a used motor swap....
Don't just Pour $$$ into a hole hoping to fill it...
Might not be worth limping the motor on...or might be worth fixing the head or a used motor swap....
Don't just Pour $$$ into a hole hoping to fill it...
I think I might try the LiquidMOLY on my next oil change






