R50/53 R50 vs R53 reliability
R50 vs R53 reliability
Hi everyone!
I have a question regarding the reliability of the r50 vs r53. I've been reading and learning so much from NAM, but to be honest I'm having a little more difficulty understanding the 1st gens. From what I've been reading I know the 1st gens use the tritec engine, and that in the 2nd gens with the prince engine the justa coopers are more reliable daily drivers due to the issues with the N14 (like carbon buildup). I read the sticky on the R53 newbies, but I was wondering if there were any reliability issues like the 2nd gens based on model. Is the r50 a more reliable daily driver than the r53, or is there no significant difference in this area for 1st gens?
Sorry if this is a weird question. I'm still car shopping and trying to decide which model MINI is right for me in terms of price, reliability, performance, etc.
I have a question regarding the reliability of the r50 vs r53. I've been reading and learning so much from NAM, but to be honest I'm having a little more difficulty understanding the 1st gens. From what I've been reading I know the 1st gens use the tritec engine, and that in the 2nd gens with the prince engine the justa coopers are more reliable daily drivers due to the issues with the N14 (like carbon buildup). I read the sticky on the R53 newbies, but I was wondering if there were any reliability issues like the 2nd gens based on model. Is the r50 a more reliable daily driver than the r53, or is there no significant difference in this area for 1st gens?
Sorry if this is a weird question. I'm still car shopping and trying to decide which model MINI is right for me in terms of price, reliability, performance, etc.
Still useful for some...the thread...
I think one important consideration is the drivers...
Usually an s vs a just-a driver is different....
A typical turbo or supercharged buyer is very different from a regular buyer...and treats the car different...
The generality is the "justa or just A cooper" tends to be more reliable is generally true....less complexity... And typically a more laid back driver...(just remember, run from the gen1 cvt IMO)..
I think one important consideration is the drivers...
Usually an s vs a just-a driver is different....
A typical turbo or supercharged buyer is very different from a regular buyer...and treats the car different...
The generality is the "justa or just A cooper" tends to be more reliable is generally true....less complexity... And typically a more laid back driver...(just remember, run from the gen1 cvt IMO)..
Last edited by ZippyNH; Nov 6, 2014 at 05:05 AM.
the only difference between the two is that the supercharger runs the water pump in the r53, which at some point hopefully never the PTO gears will go and then the water pump no longer turns.
r50 doesn't have that issue
anything else is nearly identical minus trannys
r50 was not gifted with the getrag 6spd, but the 5sp midlands and the CVT, the CVT is a timebomb and they all blow up. midlands does have some issues, not terrible ones
but an r50 with a getrag 6 spd swap..... solid car there
r50 doesn't have that issue
anything else is nearly identical minus trannys
r50 was not gifted with the getrag 6spd, but the 5sp midlands and the CVT, the CVT is a timebomb and they all blow up. midlands does have some issues, not terrible ones
but an r50 with a getrag 6 spd swap..... solid car there
So what I'm gathering is this- if you go with a first gen it's a toss up between transmission issues and water pump issues as the common problems, right? So then the question is which of those issues is more likely to cost you the most money long term?
Thank you both for your replies!
Thank you both for your replies!
Also note that some SC have gone out as early as 50,000 miles, others have gone over 150,000.. I have an '06 just-a cabrio, 5-speed. Done my fair share of Auto-x, BMW Performance Center, VIR a time or two, and it's my DD. Currently has 140,000 miles. The only parts I have had to replace are the axles, and a few thermostat gaskets. So you can run the Just-a fairly hard and not have problems. Granted the dragstrip is probably not a good place to be hanging out with it... ( speed and parts )
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Well....the 2005-2006 r50 had a 5 speed getrag tranny...so no midlands issues..
Think the sc water pump gear issues is overblown....folks get ocd online...then try to "service" it...get in over their heads...and car never runs right cause it is do involved...
MINI says if it leaks, install a rebuilt unit...to spend 5+ hours of labor to prolond the life of a wear item that costs about $800 is not a good deal unless you value your own time very little...
As these cars age, biggest factor about relilibility is how the car was treated, driven and matainer by prior owners....
Imo , find a one or two owner car...
Have a mechanic look at it...and buy it if you like it.
IMO I would steer clear of a CVT r50, or be at least mindful of a Midlands car, avoid the n14 in the gen2....but the gen2 coopers are decent cars if not abused...lots of higher mile cars with very few issues...remember, don't fall in love....
There will always be another one too look at, and always get the car inspected!!
Avoid tracked cars, but know a mini is a wonderful car to drive and pretty fun to own as lond as you don't go OCD worrying about crap....
Think the sc water pump gear issues is overblown....folks get ocd online...then try to "service" it...get in over their heads...and car never runs right cause it is do involved...
MINI says if it leaks, install a rebuilt unit...to spend 5+ hours of labor to prolond the life of a wear item that costs about $800 is not a good deal unless you value your own time very little...
As these cars age, biggest factor about relilibility is how the car was treated, driven and matainer by prior owners....
Imo , find a one or two owner car...
Have a mechanic look at it...and buy it if you like it.
IMO I would steer clear of a CVT r50, or be at least mindful of a Midlands car, avoid the n14 in the gen2....but the gen2 coopers are decent cars if not abused...lots of higher mile cars with very few issues...remember, don't fall in love....
There will always be another one too look at, and always get the car inspected!!
Avoid tracked cars, but know a mini is a wonderful car to drive and pretty fun to own as lond as you don't go OCD worrying about crap....
i figured a transmission would be more expensive, but I guess I was wondering long term- like if the transmission was something that could be fixed once vs if the water pump has to continuously be fixed how those would add up. But I imagine the transmission would probably still cost more. Thank you all for your help! This forum is great for beginners like myself!
Water pump on a r53...simply not an issue...
Eaton, the sc maker says a sc is good for about 10 years, 110,000 miles, and suggests a midlife lube on non mini units (gm, etc)...mini does not cause 1000$ in labor to MAYBE save a $800 sc is dumb...
Many folks have gone many more..like 200,000+... Just like brakes, a sc is a WEAR item..it looses effivency as it wears...so if it fails from lack of lube...the seals are bad...adding oil...about 2-4 ounces is a waste of 5+ hours labor...in 6 months...guess what...just buy a $800 rebuild...be done for about 10 years.....put a new water pump in at the same time...no worries!!
Eaton, the sc maker says a sc is good for about 10 years, 110,000 miles, and suggests a midlife lube on non mini units (gm, etc)...mini does not cause 1000$ in labor to MAYBE save a $800 sc is dumb...
Many folks have gone many more..like 200,000+... Just like brakes, a sc is a WEAR item..it looses effivency as it wears...so if it fails from lack of lube...the seals are bad...adding oil...about 2-4 ounces is a waste of 5+ hours labor...in 6 months...guess what...just buy a $800 rebuild...be done for about 10 years.....put a new water pump in at the same time...no worries!!
like n2 said, there are some folks who have yet to replace the waterpump/sc after 150k miles.
some will fail early. and it doesn't seem like a proper way of making them fail early. even putting the SC with a 19% underdrive pulley wont make it fail early. it just cavitates in the waterpump which is a different issue.
although it does seem like the people who chase the SC oil spend a lot more time and money. the r56 non S is more reliable than the r56s since most of the issues are the direct injection and the turbo, with the non s has.
personally I couldn't have an r50, because my motorcycle would have more hp than my car. I need the r53 and im not worried about the supercharger. figuring im in newengland the car will prolly rust away before I have to replace it.
even if I go on craigslist in my area, I see lots of r53s with 140k miles still running
some will fail early. and it doesn't seem like a proper way of making them fail early. even putting the SC with a 19% underdrive pulley wont make it fail early. it just cavitates in the waterpump which is a different issue.
although it does seem like the people who chase the SC oil spend a lot more time and money. the r56 non S is more reliable than the r56s since most of the issues are the direct injection and the turbo, with the non s has.
personally I couldn't have an r50, because my motorcycle would have more hp than my car. I need the r53 and im not worried about the supercharger. figuring im in newengland the car will prolly rust away before I have to replace it.
even if I go on craigslist in my area, I see lots of r53s with 140k miles still running
I have a 2002 R50, its most likely 3rd or 4th hand and had 160000km on the clock, I've added 20000+ in the last 7-8 months and average 600+km a week as its a daily drive.
I have replaced the Engine mounts, Plugs, leads, Coil pack, Fuel pump, Fuel Filter Unit, PSP cooling fan, PS Pump, Radiator and water pump.
Expensive, yes (its the BMW brand), shopped around for price competitive parts and did all my own labour. To be expected on a used car that showed no signs or symptoms on inspection and purchase. The cost involved of a used car and not just the Mini brand. I purchased my car for a really good negotiated price considering what it was advertised for and fully expected to spend a few thousand dollars on maintenance.
No log book or service record will tell you how it was driven. The water pump was showing minimal wear in the shaft but was replaced with a new unit regardless for peace of mind when the radiator was replaced (inc. the crank sensor O Ring)
The bottom line is, its a used car with no reliable history, no idea how it was driven prior to purchase (who will admit to flogging a car to death). Intend to drop the front end in the near future and replace all ball joints and bushing, also shock absorbers.
The end result, a car I like and enjoy and the knowledge of what has been maintained and or replaced due to prior negligence or expected wear and tear and the knowledge that the car is in a roadworthy and reliable condition.
I chose an R50 over an R53 due to insurance costs and running repairs/maintenance cost (super charger). Do I regret my purchase ? No, does it sometimes frustrate me when issues crop up ? Yes but no more than other brands of cars I have owned and driven.
Regardless of what you choose to buy, be aware of each models known common faults, be prepared to address those issues IF they arise or purchase a brand new car where you have a guaranteed driving / service history.
just my 2 bobs worth.
I have replaced the Engine mounts, Plugs, leads, Coil pack, Fuel pump, Fuel Filter Unit, PSP cooling fan, PS Pump, Radiator and water pump.
Expensive, yes (its the BMW brand), shopped around for price competitive parts and did all my own labour. To be expected on a used car that showed no signs or symptoms on inspection and purchase. The cost involved of a used car and not just the Mini brand. I purchased my car for a really good negotiated price considering what it was advertised for and fully expected to spend a few thousand dollars on maintenance.
No log book or service record will tell you how it was driven. The water pump was showing minimal wear in the shaft but was replaced with a new unit regardless for peace of mind when the radiator was replaced (inc. the crank sensor O Ring)
The bottom line is, its a used car with no reliable history, no idea how it was driven prior to purchase (who will admit to flogging a car to death). Intend to drop the front end in the near future and replace all ball joints and bushing, also shock absorbers.
The end result, a car I like and enjoy and the knowledge of what has been maintained and or replaced due to prior negligence or expected wear and tear and the knowledge that the car is in a roadworthy and reliable condition.
I chose an R50 over an R53 due to insurance costs and running repairs/maintenance cost (super charger). Do I regret my purchase ? No, does it sometimes frustrate me when issues crop up ? Yes but no more than other brands of cars I have owned and driven.
Regardless of what you choose to buy, be aware of each models known common faults, be prepared to address those issues IF they arise or purchase a brand new car where you have a guaranteed driving / service history.
just my 2 bobs worth.
My 2006 R50 has been pretty reliable. It's got the 5spd getrag. So far I've replaced both power steering hoses, oil pan gasket, motor mount, thermostat housing, plugs, battery, air filters... no major failures yet. I'm taking it in to have a noise investigated, pretty sure it's the bearing on the idler pulley, i'll probably get a new serpentine belt while I'm in there.
It's daily driven "spiritedly..." I'm one of those drivers who SHOULD have bought an S
and it's got 82,000KM (50k miles.) and I bought it at 32,000KM.
It's daily driven "spiritedly..." I'm one of those drivers who SHOULD have bought an S
and it's got 82,000KM (50k miles.) and I bought it at 32,000KM.
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