Hello, new to the forums and to Mini's ,but not new to BMW products in general. I'm looking for advice on used R56's. I tried posting this on a BMW forum, but did not receive many replies, so I figured I'd get better advice or opinions on a dedicated Mini forum.

I'm looking at purchasing a 2007 R56 Cooper S with 60K miles. Looking at the car as a daily. Seller has maintenance records, however the car has not has had its timing chain replace, and this worries me some. I have read all over the net that the R56's are major maintence ******, especially the 2007's and this is a concern, almost driving me away from looking at a Cooper S. Anyway I would like to find out from those than know Mini's better than I what to look for when looking at a used Cooper S, what to stay away from or if I should avoid such a car all together.

 

From my limited knowledge, 2011 seems to be a year of big changes in MINI's. The N14 was replaced by the supposedly more reliable, redesigned N18 engine. The N18 does not seem to have the "quirks" and known failures that the N14 did. But, as always, time and miles will tell all. It seems I "lucked-out" by buying the 2011 S model. I was also looking at a 2010 with the N14. Hopefully others will chime in to confirm or deny my observations.

 

I totally agree with renchjeep, the N18 is much improved over the N14. A little over a year ago I purchased a 2007 Mini Cooper S with only 45k, it wasn't long before I would hear the death rattle as we call it. Most of the time it breaks the upper guide rail above the camshaft sprockets, a smaller percentage have their timing chain jump the camshaft sprockets sending the valves into the pistons. Rebuild or new engine.

The N14's burns or inhales the oil vapor through the PCV system covering the intake valves in a cake of carbon deposits that restricts airflow and causes misfiring, for how much oil I burn I will be getting my intake runners and valves walnut blasted every 40k miles. You're probably leaning towards an N18 engine by now, they don't inhale oil anywhere near as bad as the N14. I could see having the walnut media done every 80k miles on an N18, but even then the N18's valves aren't that bad.

Since I've owned my 07 MCS I've replaced the timing chain assembly, thermostat housing, valve cover, flywheel and clutch components. I have two other issues what I think is a bad AC compressor main bearing (hope it's the friction wheel, provides tension on belt) and 1-2 injectors about ready to fail, feeling good about buying that 6-year extended bumper to bumper powertrain warranty!

Out of all the the Mini Cooper S's I wouldn't touch any Mini from 2007-2010, go with an N18 engine!

Regards,
Systemlord

 

Thanks, Systemlord, for confirming my observations. Now, what do you think of a catch-can on an N18? Not needed, or needed only for "spirited driving"? ALL of my driving is "spirited", by the way. LOL. Just not looking forward to filling my CAC with oil and sludge. Maybe not a concern on the N18? And, yes, I change topics/hijack threads often. Bad me! Maybe we should PM?

 

The N18 doesn't need a OCC, the redesigned PCV system doesn't send oil vapor into the cylinder to be burned, at least not like the N14. You're probably wondering why I'm not using an OCC, that's because evey member using one on an N14 engine is only catching a very small percentage of oil.

The oil ends up working it's way through the turbo, pooling in the intercooler and finely into the intake system ending up in the intake ports, it's the long way instead of a shortcut. I just let it enter the engine because there's not a thing I can do to stop it from entering the engine, I'll just have the pay $350-$550 to have the intake system walnut blasted every 40k, this is the only real solution to the problem. If I had it to do all over again I would have gone with an N18 engine.

 

OK. And thanks for the simple explanation. And I hope your N14 lives forever! PM me sometime...maybe we can arrange a meeting...just to BS and compare notes.

 

How reliable are the turbos on the N14's?

 

usually good for 70k, but i think that's standard for most twin-scroll turbos

 

I have seen them last for longer or shorter. i'm still going strong at 71k, while a buddy of mine only lasted 30k.

 

If you're able to buy it for around $5,000 it may be worth it, but the seller will laugh if you offer that price. However, you really need to ask yourself first what am i going to do if the car has, or suddenly acquires the excessive oil consumption problem.

I know first hand what a hassle it is adding oil every two or three weeks. Plus the dipstick reading can be deceiving at times. I'm not joking.

Also, if you do buy it...get a CEL code reader because you're going to need it.

Good luck in your decision.

 

side note, where in wisconsin are you?

 

I have an 07 MSC with 62k on it and the only issue I have had to date is the mechanical water pump go bad, which was replaced along with the thermostat under my extended warranty.

As for the timing chain, if you decide to purchase the car, then make an appointment with your local MINI dealer to have them check it out. The timing chain and components are covered under a still-active service bulletin that was initiated in Oct or Nov '13. If your chain has any slack outside what should be normal, they replace the chain and tensioner for you at no cost. Another common issue with the high-pressure fuel pump, however this is also covered under a recall.

The only thing you may want to check records for and if not found, be prepared to spend out of pocket for, is the infamous carbon-cleaning at right around $450 from a dealer. No way to prevent this, unfortunately it comes with the territory of owning a direct-injected vehicle. Although MINI's designed is a little less to par with other manufacturers, it's still common. Just as the VW guys. haha.

Good luck on your endeavor with the MINI! I absolutely love mine and I am sure you will too if you decide to get it.

 

First step to buying an R56. Take the 56 and subtract 3 from it.

 

Atleast if you are into tuning. The R53 was not popular with soccer mom's, but it is definitely the tuners mini. No one is setting track records with an R56, subtract a few high dollar company builds which properly don't have an N14 in them. The Peugot motor has several issues, particularly with the addition of direct injection. Without fuel flowing over the valves, the valves WILL cake with carbon build up, and the car will decline in power. So, you can either build your own walnut blaster, or pay someone $500 to do it, but it'll have to be done every40k-60k. Also BMW didn't spend nearly as much time developing the R56, so it is plagued with secondary issues. People seem to look at car and driver, and think the R56 is quicker from looking at the numbers, and bone stock it is, well until the 56s valves gunk up. However, the 56's higher hp, that stock number is about as good as it's gonna get.The 56's peugot motor has a tendency to go "boom" with excessive horsepower. Since at the time BMW owned half of chryser, he 53 used the chrysler triton block, which is virtually indestructible, and built an engine off of it. The Triton was an amazing block, which won many awards, the only reason BMW stopped using it was because they sold their share of Chrysler. The triton has been known to be tunable to well over twice its original power, while retaining reliability (reliable for a german car). I have been running my 53 at around 260hp, nearly 100 more than it came with, for over three years without any engine issues, I even know a few people daily driving at over 300hp, a friend of mine has been running for four years at 400hp, without even damaging a head gasket, let alone the block. The 56 you're lucky to get an extra 50. There's a reason the biggest mini R&D companies, spend over 80% of their resources towards the 53, as well as using it as the company race car. You won't see RMW racing a 56, their pride and joy is the 53, and the stroker motor he developed for it from the triton. His Stroker with the rotrex S/C is putting out well over 400 hp, and his TVS 900 kit should be coming out soon, if you prefer the low end of a roots S/C vs the midband of a centrifugal, which I do. The RMW motors expensive, near 7-8k, but I'm planning on taking an overseas contract, so I'll be cash happy. While I could buy something sleeker and faster, I find the prospect of giving Porsches a run for their money in a Mini way more entertaining. True turbos, can create higher HP, I had a WRX which was stupid fast, but it takes a lot of RPMs to get there, whereas the S/C gives it immediately, and on a track and curves that makes a big difference. Same reason Ducati has never had the highest top speed, but still win championships, they cater to the low end of the power band. If you change your mind, the ideal 53 is an '05-'06, aka facelift mini, asides from some interior/exterior changes, they had worked out most of the kinks, added a modded S/C previously available on the JCW only, and a race inspired gear box. However, if you are deadset on the 56, I'd definitely recommend adding a water/methanol system ASAP, and make sure you run it hard occasionally to slow down the carbon buildup.

 

also, it only take a few hundred bucks of mods to match the stock 56 hp

 

The problem with buying an R53 is the tendency to become an elitist jerk going around posting nonsense on forums.

 

Never driven a r56 but from lots of reading in the forums, it's a faster car, more comfortable car than the r53. I have an r53 but I'm not going to try to get you to change your mind. My only advice would be to try and get the latest model year you can afford, hopefully with a warranty for some piece of mind.

 

Don't kid yourself about the N 18 engine-it too has problems...

Look up issues involving oil leaks from the oil pump unloading solenoid. This oil leak is both common and will if untreated lead to engine ECU replacement... Not cheap, and I gather the fix involves removal of the oil pan, drive shaft and carrier to access the Solenoid!
OH! and that fix is Temporary until BMW finds a permanent fix or replacement P/N for the solenoid .

Don't forget the suspension problems; sway bar bushings, sway bar end links,and on the Sport suspension package , justified complaints about a hideous ride and cheap shocks (fixable with koni's or other aftermarket shocks and non run flat tires and $$).
That said, my '12 MCS is not in ANY danger of replacement!
Good Luck!
E

 

A. An elitist by definition thrives on exclusivity, so if I was an elitist I would want as few people as possible to buy the R53

B. If I was a jerk, I certainly wouldn't put any effort towards steering someone away from a car plagued with problems.

C. If it was nonsense, my well intentioned paragraph wouldn't have been backed up with facts, which is actually the opposite of nonsense......new thing.....all the kids are doing it.....it's called making sense. Never mind I'm a life long mechanic, cars and helicopters who gets paid quite well for my expertise.

D. Eat a ****

Have a nice day! See you in my rear view as you're choking on Carbon

 

The trick would be to buy the latest model, and lowest mileage MINI you can afford, and hope to have some factory warranty still in place. Then, do NOT "cheap-out" by avoiding the extended warranty! My 6-year extended is costing me 35 bucks a month. Pretty cheap when you consider all that can go wrong, and the COST! I bought the Hendricks Warranty when I bought my 11 MCS R56 with 22k miles from the BMW dealer in Murrieta, CA. Under the remaining factory warranty, I had my water pump, oil pressure solenoid, associated wiring harness, and some "trivial stuff", like discolored Sport button, steering wheel buttons, discoloring door sill plates, and the chrome piece on the front bumper replaced by MINI of Escondido, all for FREE, and got a free loaner car (2013 MCS R56 auto) for a week! The SA there told me that the Hendricks Warranty is a good one, and they will honor it. Now if they would only warranty the front tires going bald....LOL!

 

Planning to get a 2013 R56 JCW with 7k miles.. any problems i should be looking at? Its got warranty left and thinking about extended warranty....

Since its the last year.. should be a N18 and lots of kinks out.

Or another option is going with the GP, but way more $$$$

 

I have no idea who eMINI is; but he speaks the truth. Although his paragraph was a miserable read... it was right on the nose. The R56 is meh.

The R53 platform is far better in numerous ways. Sadly, the ticking time bomb that lives in the R56 is nothing to call home about.

If you like to do more than suspension, brakes and minimal engine mods then buy an R53. If you're not into fitting after market bits to your car, then an R56 will suffice. It is probably the better car in stock format (not as reliable). However, it will never hold a candle to a properly modded R53.

TO THE OP: Buy a very nice R53 ( heck even a properly modded one (saving you well over 10k in the end)) or just buy a F56. The new platform, although ugly as *****, will prove to be the successor to the R53 platform. The engine alone should be very comparable in terms of reliability and tuning.

 

Nick6

I owned a 2007 Cooper S, purchased new, for about 3 1/2 years until a 79 year old guy in a Ford Explorer destroyed it. At the time of the accident it had ~81,000 miles. It was such a nice Mini too.
I replaced it with a used 2009 Cooper S that now has 103,000 miles on it. So I guess I can say that an R56, with an N14 engine drivetrain, has been my daily driver for almost 7 years, and close 160,000+ miles.( The 2009 had about 24K when I bought it.)
While neither car has left me stranded on the road they do have their "issues" that need to be kept on top of. The fouling of the valves, the HPFP, the tensioner bolt issue, and the water pump connector problem come to mind. There was a belief that there were some clutch misalignment issues with the early 2007 builds also.
I've never had any issues with the turbo's in mine, and I never had some of the catastrophic issues that some folks have had, knock on wood, nor did I experience the dreaded "cold start death rattle" with either vehicle.
I personally would have to be getting a really good deal on a 2007MCS to consider it.

All cars have their problems, and the R53's aren't immune either. I have a quite a few friends with them and they've spent their time in the shops too.
If you know what the problems are going in. It's a lot easier than dealing with them unknowingly. The major issues are still covered by Mini with that vehicle, something to consider.

I just bought a 2013 JCW, so I'm hoping that it is a little more refined than it's earlier predecessors. ( I kept the 2009 MCS. )

 

The R56 is the "Mustang II" of the MINI family. Do yourself a favor and get a R53.

 

Lol, I'm stealing that. Though the R53 is not problem free. I've never met a gear head with a 56.