Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Aquamist HFS-2

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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 06:58 AM
  #1  
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Aquamist HFS-2

I live in Phoenix AZ and temps here are now in the tripple digits. Considering an aquamist HFS-2 system for cooling purposes only as I am already running high octane fuel on a regular basis. My budget does not allow for an HFS-4 and dont really need a system like that because I am already running high octane fuel and really dont wanna have to depend on meth for the octane boost. So with that being said I really dont need the gauges and failsafes that come with that system. The HFS-2 kit is about $600 but I was also considering the stage 2 snow performance kit that is progressive for only about $350. The snow performance kit is quite a bit less and the controller either runs off boost pressure or 5v map sensor signal. Im just wondering if the aquamist kit is a little overkill for cooling purposes only and maybe the snow performance kit would be fine for that. Is there anyone running either one of these kits that can chime in? Any help or opinions would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
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Old Jun 14, 2014 | 11:17 PM
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Nick at Manic told me that in Europe they run the AEM Meth kits on their tuned cars and it runs just fine. I'd imagine the Snow Performance kits would be the same.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 12:40 AM
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Ive had my HFS-2 for over a year runs off the washer tank so takes up no space and you can't hear their pump running only sign its injecting is the flashing button. Spent a bit more on this system because I inject everytime the car is driven for cooling and cleaning purposes. it's running off IDC but I'm sure a cheaper system will do the same job

To put it into prospective the car is remaped and still has the stock intercooler never knocked once
 
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 06:48 AM
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I just finished my install last weekend, of my snow performance kit. Works just fine boost actuated.

Reading here in NAM, everyone sea to go "goo goo" for aquamist. Touting how it's best because it runs off idc - that running off boost is not good on the mini?

Funny, I recent read a aquamist thread where, the poster was trouble shooting. He called aquamist - they had him switch is over to boost actuation.

Snow or AEM running of boost should be just fine. If you want to save a few buck that is.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 08:29 AM
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Pump

Originally Posted by scubbysnacks
Ive had my HFS-2 for over a year runs off the washer tank so takes up no space and you can't hear their pump running only sign its injecting is the flashing button. Spent a bit more on this system because I inject everytime the car is driven for cooling and cleaning purposes. it's running off IDC but I'm sure a cheaper system will do the same job

To put it into prospective the car is remaped and still has the stock intercooler never knocked once
I wanted to use the washer tank also. Where did you mount the pump?
 
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 08:32 AM
  #6  
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Temps

Originally Posted by sbninja
I just finished my install last weekend, of my snow performance kit. Works just fine boost actuated.

Reading here in NAM, everyone sea to go "goo goo" for aquamist. Touting how it's best because it runs off idc - that running off boost is not good on the mini?

Funny, I recent read a aquamist thread where, the poster was trouble shooting. He called aquamist - they had him switch is over to boost actuation.

Snow or AEM running of boost should be just fine. If you want to save a few buck that is.

What are your intake temps with this kit? Are the AFR good? I guess running off IDC just helps the Mini dial in the long and short term maps better is what Jeff at howerton engineering told me
 
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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 08:53 AM
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If you're just wanting the cooling aspects then any of the kits from the various manufacturers will work. Another kit to consider is Banks, not sure if they make one compatible with MINI.

These are my thoughts of running off boost only (I could be totally wrong):

The boost of curve of the MINI is pretty much flat, it peaks at low rpm and basically stays there or actually decreases at higher rpm. IMO, if you are running off boost only then you will have to much methanol at lower rpm and not enough at higher rpm when it's really needed. But again if you're not "tuned" for meth then it doesn't really matter.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Go-Cart
What are your intake temps with this kit? Are the AFR good? I guess running off IDC just helps the Mini dial in the long and short term maps better is what Jeff at howerton engineering told me
Intake air temps are lower as expected with and water/meth injection kit.
Also AFR is fine.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by sbninja
I just finished my install last weekend, of my snow performance kit. Works just fine boost actuated.

Reading here in NAM, everyone sea to go "goo goo" for aquamist. Touting how it's best because it runs off idc - that running off boost is not good on the mini?

Funny, I recent read a aquamist thread where, the poster was trouble shooting. He called aquamist - they had him switch is over to boost actuation.

Snow or AEM running of boost should be just fine. If you want to save a few buck that is.
You have to remember that there are two different type of induction system for the MINI COOPER S models.

And a SuperCharged car will not work well using a boost sensing injection system as we make full boost throughout the rev range.

A turbo car on the other hand the boost builds and will work with a boost sensing injection system. So your statement is only partially correct.

The reason the Aquamist HFS series is so popular with the MINI owners is that it is a system that was designed from the ground up to be installed and used in the MINI's (both the R53 and R56 cars), it can do Boost activated, Injector Duty Cycle, or BOTH. It has a tank system that requires NO modification to the car to install.

AEM also makes a IDC based system, but it will not come with instruction and a tank that is MINI specific.
 

Last edited by c0op3r; Jun 16, 2014 at 02:04 PM.
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by c0op3r
You have to remember that there are two different type of induction system for the MINI COOPER S models. And a SuperCharged car will not work well using a boost sensing injection system as we make full boost throughout the rev range. A turbo car on the other hand the boost builds and will work with a boost sensing injection system. So your statement is only partially correct. The reason the Aquamist HFS serious is so popular with the MINI owners is that it is a system that was designed from the ground up to be installed and used in the MINI's (both the R53 and R56 cars), it can do Boost activated, Injector Duty Cycle, or BOTH. It has a tank system that requires NO modification to the car to install. AEM also makes a IDC based system, but it will not come with instruction and a tank that is MINI specific.
Yep, you are right about there being a "supercharged" version of the mini. I thought this thread was posted here in "2nd gen" for reason? Referring to "turbo" minis. This is my first mini (R58 S N18 ), still learning all the proper terms and generations. Am I correct that supercharged mini's are not "2nd Gen"?
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 12:53 PM
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You are correct that you posted and second-generation, but you have to note that some people will search for water methanol or aquamist. When that happens they may come up on this post and think that they can just use any system that supports boost injection.

Also a note; do not forget the cost difference between the AEM & Aquamist is the installation. The AEM is general kit to be installed on anything but the tank is also general and will not have a specific mounting point on the art 56 a.k.a. second-generation. It will also not have instructions that are specific to MINI showing you exact places to get your taps for positive, negative, duty cycle, boost and so forth.

For those installing kit and wanting to use the window washer tank then the AEM kit is a great choice.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by c0op3r
You have to remember that there are two different type of induction system for the MINI COOPER S models.

And a SuperCharged car will not work well using a boost sensing injection system as we make full boost throughout the rev range.

A turbo car on the other hand the boost builds and will work with a boost sensing injection system. So your statement is only partially correct.

The reason the Aquamist HFS serious is so popular with the MINI owners is that it is a system that was designed from the ground up to be installed and used in the MINI's (both the R53 and R56 cars), it can do Boost activated, Injector Duty Cycle, or BOTH. It has a tank system that requires NO modification to the car to install.

AEM also makes a IDC based system, but it will not come with instruction and a tank that is MINI specific.
From my logs, I have noticed that my factory turbocharged N18 makes nearly full boost throughout the rpm range. Boost actually decreases slightly at higher rpms (that could be a result of the methanol cooling effect). Here's a screen shot.

 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 02:05 PM
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The conversation around whether boost is good enough or not is currently missing a critical data point.

Boost is constant (or very nearly so) and flow would be constant from the water injection system.

Airflow would most definitely not be constant though across the RPM range. Hitting full boost at 2k rpm vs full boost at 6k rpm will produce very different flow rates for air/fuel. Your water will still be spraying the same amount though. IDC brings into account this changing flow rate as the injectors will need to increase their duty cycle as RPM increases.

With that being said, I ran a water injection system on another platform based on boost and using the windshield washer tank. Worked well. I was not tuned for it, but used the water for cooling/knock reduction. To make matters worse, this system was even pre-turbo!
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by nine5raptor
The conversation around whether boost is good enough or not is currently missing a critical data point.

Boost is constant (or very nearly so) and flow would be constant from the water injection system.

Airflow would most definitely not be constant though across the RPM range. Hitting full boost at 2k rpm vs full boost at 6k rpm will produce very different flow rates for air/fuel. Your water will still be spraying the same amount though. IDC brings into account this changing flow rate as the injectors will need to increase their duty cycle as RPM increases.

With that being said, I ran a water injection system on another platform based on boost and using the windshield washer tank. Worked well. I was not tuned for it, but used the water for cooling/knock reduction. To make matters worse, this system was even pre-turbo!

Funny I was just about to type up your point, that is why IDC is better than boost only and Boost & IDC is the BEST.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 02:27 PM
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Boost in the 2nd gen turbo is not constant it's progressive. In my car, I certainly am not seeing max boost at 2k rpm(looking back at data logs)
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 03:04 PM
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It does not progress upwards as you head towards redline, but rather tries to hit target loads, which is a combination of many factors. Boost is altered as needed (along with other parameters) to meet that target load.

Regardless, though, airflow is dramatically different at different engine rpm ranges when the boost is nearly constant.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by nine5raptor
It does not progress upwards as you head towards redline, but rather tries to hit target loads, which is a combination of many factors. Boost is altered as needed (along with other parameters) to meet that target load.
Good point.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Go-Cart
I wanted to use the washer tank also. Where did you mount the pump?
Opposite side To the washer tank next to the fog light. Made up a very simple bracket and bolted it on using the existing holes in the frame of the car.
 
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