Hi guys,
I just took my 2007 Cooper S in for maintenance and it looks like the oil supply lines to the turbo are leaking. Their recommendation is a complete turbo replacement for $1000.

I was thinking instead of paying a grand to have what I've had that maybe I should spend a little more and just up the power on the little guy.

If I decided to replace the turbo with an aftermarket, what should I be looking for and from whom? I'll probably try to stay under $1700 all in for the swap, with me doing all the work. I have a lot of mechanic/engine rebuild experience so I figure it shouldn't take me too long.

Mainly I'm interested in knowing what I would need (turbo, intercooler, etc?). And who I should buy it from. Annnnddd what kind of gains I would be looking at. I'm not interested in a hotrod, I have my old 383 for that, I just want a quicker (but still reliable) mini.

 

First of all, all N14 engines start leaking from the top oil feed line. Usually with around 50-60K miles on the clock.
The right solution is to replace the oil line, preferably with the upgraded Detroit Tuned kit (below), not replace the turbo itself and leave the leaking line in place!
http://www.detroittuned.com/dt-turbo...ine-super-kit/


You can probably squeeze WAYYY more power from your existing turbo that you realize, just by tuning the software and larger intercooler, air flow supply chain, etc.

Even if you still decided to pursue non-OEM turbo install, you will still need to re-program the DME to use it. Except in this case, you will need a complete custom software tune, so start by looking for one of the few custom MINI tuners around the country who is close to where you live. Then ask them what they've done before, and would recommend repeating.

a

 

Awesome! Thanks!

I just purchased the DT oil line, clamp and gasket. We'll see if that works.

I wonder why they were wanting $1000 to fix it if it's not a turbo replacement?

 

Because the dealership is good at taking people's money lol. I don't take my car there at all once I got out of warranty. I take it to Detroit Tuned because it's an independent shop and they are true honest people and prices are relatively very competitive compared to other places. I would recommend looking for an independent shop, primarily anything European or specifically to MINIs. Good luck with the leak!

 

+1.
I'm fresh out of local MINI dealers I would recommend to a friend.

Since we all start with pre-paid warranty and service work included in the price of the car, and are prohibited from using that pre-paid plan outside of the dealer network (aka OEM warranty), we have no choice but to suffer through dealer support incompetence.

Literary, it took me 4 trips to 3 dealers to get them to correctly diagnose and implement oil chain tension TSB! One of them called me back 3 months after warranty ran out to inform that they finally figured out what I meant, and can now perform the job on my dime - I politely hung up on them. I may have been too kind.

If you are out of warranty, there is no reason to put up with obscene dealer mark-ups on everything (2x on oil changes, tires, etc). Just find a competent independent mechanic and start talking with the guy who will actually be working on your car. Not a "service manager" or "motoring adviser" or whatever those people are called whose dis-services you are securing by paying 2x for everything at the dealer.

a

 

Go to the 'Modifications: How To' section and do a search on replacing the turbo oil feed line. It is quite a bit of work, and that is why the dealer replacement is pricey (besides the price gouging). If this is the first time that you will be taking off the heat shields and downpipe, I would expect that you will have 6 hours in this job. Not trying to be an azz, but there is not much room to work. Also search on how to put your car into 'service mode' this will make it better.

I recommend that you also look under your car to see if you have any other leaks or issues to handle while you are there. On my 08 the oil filter housing was leaking (front of block, dripping onto exhaust), some cars have leaks on their turbo drain lines and/or oil cooler. These items are readily accessible when you get to replacing the turbo oil feed line. Once you get into this job, you will likely want to replace any questionable items, rather than button it up and go back at a later date.

Also, if you have never had your exhaust clamp off (downpipe to resonator section), you should probably get a new one. Mine was heavily corroded, and it was easier to cut it off and replace it.

Since the DP is removed for this work, now is also a good time to replace it with a performance version, if you are so inclined. It is generally accepted that aftermarket dp-back systems only add sound, and any exhaust power gains are found by replacing the downpipe (and then tuning the car).

Have fun,
Mike

 

Thanks for all the feedback! I really appreciate it.

I got the gasket and exhaust clamp to do at the same time as the pipe, plus the oil filter housing gasket (it was actually leaking).

I'm not really familiar with what would be gained by just doing a DP. I'm more familiar with big NA engines than these little guys! Any links to parts I should consider, and what I might expect to gain by swapping them?

 

New DP will all but guaranteed a check-engine light, and possibly more power with a proper DME tune.
For optimal results you would want to replace the entire cat-back (DP-back) exhaust system as well.

It sucks, and the DP is already removed begging to be upgraded, but there aren't any aftermarket pipes that integrate w/out triggering CE lights. Even the pipes that have cats in them (like AP one) don't reduce 02 emissions as DME expects them to, thus after looking at 02 sensor readings before and after the cat it will throw a CE light.

Annoying, but not terminal for performance.
Terminal for passing state emissions tests.

a

 

Some of the best things you can do are in process: Maintenance. Take care of the oil leaks (valve cover as well), spark plugs, carbon cleaning intake ports/valves, change trans fluid.

Tuning gets you quite a bit on these cars (you feel 10-20 hp gains with only 2700 lbs), but you want to make any hardware changes before the tune (intercooler, exhaust), or else you will just pay again to have your tune optimized for your car.

It depends what you want, you can spend thousands if you prefer, or just a few hundred. My favorite mods are the Accessport tune, Koni shocks, and the JCW steering wheel. Mine is no race car, but a really fun driver (and not bad in the winter either).

Have fun,
Mike