With spring finally here I'm gonna put my 15% pulley on, just wondering if I should swap the belt tensioner while I'm in there or should leave it?

 

Depends how many miles are on the car. I changed mine with just under 80K on it just to be safe. You could get a tensioner stop for it. That'll help protect the pulleys should the tensioner fail.

 

I have 118k I will be getting the stop

 

My gut says...
If you are in there.... Toss one on....they can be had for $80 or so....can only prevent pain and a tow bill in the future....they do fail and wear...

 

The tensioner strut fails even way earlier. Mine was gone at 40k, tensioner idler at 49k. Like Zippy, I'd say swap in a new Gates/Litens from Amazon.

 

Yea I was thinking I should I was trying to save money but I better replace it.

 

I have a 2007 Mini Cooper S with 79600 miles. I just purchased the car few weeks ago. The car just started making the rattling noise that everyone is talking about. I am ready to order the part and do it myself. Does anybody knows where to buy this parts at a good price? and what other parts should I replace while I am doing the work?
Thanks for the help.
Raul..

 

Rock auto is where I'm getting mine, 83 for a gates

 

Yours is an 07 R56, right? Most probably from your TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER. what we're discussing here is the SERPENTINE BELT TENSIONER.

 

Yes, it is the R56. I traded my 2001 Yukon XL for this baby. I like it a lot, it is a fun car to drive. So you are telling me that I need the Serpentine Belt Tensioner? I will check rock auto to order one.
Thanks
Raul.

 

No he's telling you your problem is with the timing chain tensioner NOT the belt tensioner.

 

Thank you again. I saw the mistake after I pressed the reply key.
Anybody have any tips on replacing the timing chain tensioner?

 

Many threads on this over at the Gen2 section. This among those:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...tensioner.html

 

I'd recommend on changing the tensionner while you are there. I just did mine not even an hour ago. I was doing some maintenance (flushing brake fluid, etc) and I decided that it would be wise to check my belt as it was making noise. A little bit of WD40 would make the noise go away, so I knew that the belt was the culprit.

But it ended up being more than the belt. When I used the tensionner tool to remove the allen key and release the tension back on the strap, it wouldn't apply much, if any at all. I actually had to push it back with the tool, which isn't supposed to happen. The belt was loose, enough that it could easily remove itself from the car. I already had a brand new tensionner that I bought last year (call me Nostradamus), so I supported the engine, removed the upper part of the engine mount and did the swap. The shock was leaking and the spring looks pretty tired too.

Car has around 84000 miles to give you an idea.

 

Thank you for the info Da_Ghost. I am ordering the part today. I am considering replacing the Timing Chain Tensioner and the Belt tensioner. Do you need the tool tensioner to remove the allen key?
Thanks

 

STOP!!!
YOUR CAR IS ENTIRELY DIFFERENT!!
It has a DIFFERENT MOTOR, MADE BY A DIFFERENT COMPANY...
Has DIFFERENT ISSUES!!
The repair procedures and parts are 100% different!! Out motors were made in Brazil...aka as Tri-tec....
Our SC CAST IRON BLOCK motors on gen1 cars were from 2002-2006 hardtop and 2005-2008 on the cabrio....with a SC or not...and the BMW name is r50/r52/r53...You have a GEN2 car, aka a 2007+ hardtop...so a N series motor...made by PSA/BMW...As suggested above...go to a gen2 thread.....The motors are 100% different...gen2 is a TURBO with Direct injection, and a cast aluminium block and variable valve timing....
Your motor is a N14.........

 

Thank you Zippy. I feel like an idiot now. I am new to this site.