Hey Everyone -

Hoping someone who knows more about reading DYNOs can look at these graphs and tell me what my issue might be. I think there might be a boost leak somewhere, but maybe it's something else.

Recently at SWMF I ran 4 pulls on a dyno to test out my new Battle Tuning DNA tune. I ran one pull flashed to stock, one run on the stage 3 non-linear tune, and 2 runs on the stage 3 linear tune.

I did not have anything to log data during the run. I just recently had my Akra full exhaust (DP back) and the GFB DV+ installed. All other mods in my mod list were on the car.

The general consensus of everyone that did dynos that day was that the dyno results were maybe 10% - 20% low. This was compared to other dynos they had recently had done or just past results.

All Runs at 80F with 18% Humidity.

Run 1 (Stock: 184.34 HP, 189.75 Torque)





Run 2 (Battle Tuning DNA Tune Stage 3 Non-Linear: 184.52 HP, 205.34 Torque)




Run 3 (Battle Tuning DNA Tune Stage 3 Linear: 188.45 HP, 215.60 Torque)




Run 4 (Battle Tuning DNA Tune Stage 3 Non-Linear: 176.18 HP, 204.84 Torque)





I look at the 4th run as a throw-away because I got an engine error (no limp mode) which cleared after I re-flashed it. I did not get a chance to read the code. I know the tune is clearing an o2 error with the Akra DP installed. Other than that I am not sure what is going on. Clearly I should be seeing higher numbers. A guy with a JB+ on an N18 posted about 230+HP on the same dyno and another with the AP on an N14 was about 225HP. Not just the HP rating, but there is clearly something not right in the graph as you see the dip through the powerband.

Anyone have any ideas on where I should start to look?

Thanks,

-Z

 

Tunes need about 50 miles for the ECU to adjust to the new maps. You'll get better torque ASAP, but boost response and HP come a little later. Even JB+ advertises that. Sounds like you re flashed right there at the dyno and that would explain your problem.

 

Also, not unusual to have some back and forth with your tuner. Every car is a little different. Talk to DNA tuning directly. Hopefully you'll be posting in a few days, 'Woops! All good now. Thanks tuner!'

 

Thanks.

Yea I sent this to Battle Tuning a week ago but hadn't heard anything.

That makes perfect sense about the ECU adjusting. I have heard that before and didn't think about it when at the dyno. I guess that's why the stock tune looks to be in line with what I would expect (with the 10%-20% factored in). I will have to do some more runs to qualify the tune and see if there are any real issues.

Thanks for the info.

 

I call BS on the 'needs 50 miles' part. About all that would accomplish is letting the ECU dial in fuel trims a bit better and adjust timing to match. So maybe a few HP could be gained (or lost) after driving around for awhile.

Did you disable traction control and DCS? Minis dyno horribly...the various traction and stability systems like to kick in. Plus it's hard to get the car to load up to 100% to see peak power.

Without seeing boost pressures, load %, and AFRs you will just be making random guesses. Hard to trouble shoot without those.

Considering the amount you've spent already on the car, do yourself a favor and get a OBDII reader ($100-200) that will let you see boost and codes so you can really trouble shoot this.

It's not on the tuner to fix your car if it's not 100% to begin with. If you get a response from Battle/DNA it will be along these lines... to a boost leak test, unhook battery for 10 minutes to clear codes and boost/timing values...

 

Finally someone who has an educated answer, boost, timing, load...nailed it Taz

 

+1, when trying to find a problem data is key! Many good dynos have an OBDII connection that plots timing for you in the winpep software and an external boost connection you can rig up to plot boost. Finding one of those to use might make sense too.

 

Since the Dyno I now have Craven nGuages (Boost + Water Temp) as well as a couple OBD readers/loggers including Dash Command and Torque.

This dyno didn't have such a conection, but some of the guys were logging on their AP.

I believe traction control was disabled. Since the car is strapped down, I get an ABS error on the dash. Pushing the DSC button (or holding) doesn't illuminate the DSC OFF light on the speedo but the DSC error light is illuminated on the tach, which I assumed it meant it was off because of the ABS error.

Outside of setting up another dyno, is there any way to test things while logging? I live in the middle of the desert with many wide open spaces to get up to speed. I know its not a controlled environment, but would i be able to troubleshoot some data at least?

I am sure I can find a dyno here in Vegas though.

Thoughts?

-Z

 

Check your boost, timing, and air/fuel ratio, and then get with your tuner to see if they are within spec on what they programmed.