R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Clutch squeaky/crunchy Mini Cooper

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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 07:57 PM
  #1  
jchamann's Avatar
jchamann
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Clutch squeaky/crunchy Mini Cooper

Hello,

Just bought a 06 mini cooper s and looks like I all ready have my first project.

The clutch gets squeaky/resistant after the car warms ups. The clutch is relatively fluid when cold.

I'm thinking about replacing the master clutch and slave cylinder. It feels more like a hydraulic pressure issue.

Would the clutch manifest issues like this when hot? Maybe the pressure plate?

Do you guys think I'm going down the right path with the Master and Slave cylinders?

I have read alot about TOB but I have no apparent issues with the tranny other than a stiff clutch.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 08:31 PM
  #2  
minibx's Avatar
minibx
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From: Bronx,NY
Originally Posted by jchamann
Hello, Just bought a 06 mini cooper s and looks like I all ready have my first project. The clutch gets squeaky/resistant after the car warms ups. The clutch is relatively fluid when cold. I'm thinking about replacing the master clutch and slave cylinder. It feels more like a hydraulic pressure issue. Would the clutch manifest issues like this when hot? Maybe the pressure plate? Do you guys think I'm going down the right path with the Master and Slave cylinders? I have read alot about TOB but I have no apparent issues with the tranny other than a stiff clutch.
I think that you are on the right path starting with the cylinders, research the proper way of bleeding if you haven't already. when doing the slave cylinder make sure that you have that small nipple (or whatever it's called) at the end of the feeding line, sometimes gets stuck inside the old slave and you have to carefully fish it out, otherwise you'll have a headache in you hands. Also if you can.. use a power bleeder , it will make the job a lot easier.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 08:54 PM
  #3  
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JAB 67
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From: Fairfax, VA
Bad guide tube.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 09:03 PM
  #4  
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juanpablo2002
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Bleeding clutch

Reviewing threads I came across an interesting and seems a simple way. Connect a clear hose to both the LF bleeder and clutch bleeder Open both, then press brake pedal, this will flush the fluid out. When fluid is ok, close both bleeders. Writer said he did it with BMWs.

But, is this introducing air into the system, for the hose will initially not have fluid? Also, will one pump work, if not, then will need to pump, hold, tighten bleeders, and repeat?

I saw this, and curious of others opinion if this will work.
juanpablo2002
 
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 09:56 PM
  #5  
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Stoker
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From: Fresno
If the break fluid hasn't been changed in 35k then its full of condensation and muck, when the engine heats up, the condensation, in some parts of the system can get gaseous, bubbles in your system just make clutch life harder.. The break system and the clutch system use the same reservoir so its worth flushing the system before you do anything else...
 
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 04:57 AM
  #6  
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juanpablo2002
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bleeding clutch

Stoker,
I agree with your comments. Thinking of this technique you would have to bleed the brake system first to remove the worn out brake fluid.

Once this is done then run a hose from the LF bleeder to clutch bleeder. Then open both bleeders. Have someone slowly push in only the brake pedal, once pedal fully depressed then tighten the LF. Slowly release the brake pedal. Always checking for leaks.

Then examine the master cylinder, and remove fluid to just above the top of the clutch pickup, add new fluid and repeat. Once fluid looks ok, then re-bleed the brakes.

I don't mean to say this is totally correct, but an interesting idea, for then the LF becomes a pusher.
Juanpablo2002
 
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 05:17 AM
  #7  
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juanpablo2002
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Stocker,
let me add more detail.

I agree with your comments. Thinking of this technique you would have to bleed the brake system first to remove the worn out brake fluid.

Once this is done then run a hose from the LF bleeder to clutch bleeder, use a ziplock or twist tie to the hose and bleeder to prevent the hose from popping off. Then open both bleeders. Have someone slowly push in only the brake pedal, once pedal fully depressed then tighten the LF bleeder. Slowly release the brake pedal. Always checking for leaks.

At his point examine the master cylinder, remove fluid to just above the top of the clutch pickup, add new fluid and repeat. initially, you would have to watch and make sure the air is removed. Once fluid looks ok, then re-bleed the brakes to remove any missed fluid.

An interesting idea, for then doesn't the LF becomes a pusher?
Juanpablo2002
 
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Old Feb 13, 2014 | 08:53 PM
  #8  
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juanpablo2002
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bleed clutch

Stoker,
I agree using the LF as a pusher is not correct, for does not remove oil from the slave cylinder.

But, did find this on the internet, basically using an oil can as a pusher. The video link is Bavarian Motor Works:

http://www.bmpdesign.com/technical/bleed_clutch.php

juanpablo2002
 
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 08:22 AM
  #9  
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Stoker
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From: Fresno
Take the clutch slave cylinder off the car, clean slave cylinder as best you can.

Take off the bleed valve/nipple.

Submerge the slave cylinder completely in break fluid. compress the cylinder and open, repeat three or four times until all the bubbles are out.

While the cylinder is still submerged, in the extended position, reattach the bleed valve.

Clean and reattach the slave cylinder to the car.

Bleed the clutch line.

Attach clutch line to slave cylinder.

Done.
 

Last edited by Stoker; Feb 14, 2014 at 08:41 AM.
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