R56 This could be the weekend....
This could be the weekend....
Well guys I'm going to test the second MCS this weekend the one i check out about 2 weeks ago had some major break issues so i just decided to pass on it. http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail...nal&listType=1
That's the car.. it looks pretty clean with a good amount of miles especially for the price. I know to look out for the tensioner but really that's about it other than basic common sense things like the engine bay in general and under the car for any leaks, brakes, tires, bulbs out and the such. Hopefully this will be the one...then I can get on with making it more.. mine haha. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
That's the car.. it looks pretty clean with a good amount of miles especially for the price. I know to look out for the tensioner but really that's about it other than basic common sense things like the engine bay in general and under the car for any leaks, brakes, tires, bulbs out and the such. Hopefully this will be the one...then I can get on with making it more.. mine haha. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Get a CarFax report and look/listen closely. Don't be pressured into a quick sale. At that price, I'd definitely want the car.
I bought my 07 MCS with 72K miles on it 6 months ago with nearly no options(which is really just how I wanted it at the time), paid $12,500. If you can get that car, which look all loaded up, for below their asking price, I say you're doing just fine.
I bought my 07 MCS with 72K miles on it 6 months ago with nearly no options(which is really just how I wanted it at the time), paid $12,500. If you can get that car, which look all loaded up, for below their asking price, I say you're doing just fine.
ya I've owned like 6 different cars in the last 8 years... not all from dealerships but I've got plenty of experience with their run arounds. I tend to hold my own and allow them to feel like if they don't give me the 75/25 cut on the deal.. it's not happening lol. I really didn't want a blue one... or a sunroof.. but the deal is just too good to pass up. I can always dip the exterior anyways... I likely won't anytime soon but I'm sure it will eventually happen after i upgrade the suspension.
I see sunroof, climate control, steering wheel controls etc. so all the options(even the ones you weren't really looking for, definitely add value. If you get that thing for close to what I paid for my no-frills model, you're getting a heck of a deal.
Thanks man... as long as the engine bay looks nice with no leaking, I'm pretty much sold on it already! However... at 60k miles what all needs to be looked at? I get this feeling i remember heading something about the clutch at 60k.... lol
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Start the car and listen for a squeaky chattering noise that goes away when you press the clutch, feel for slippage etc. And get that CarFax. anything reaired or replaced at a dealer or reputable shop will be on there.
I just emailed the sales rep. back and she is actually going to email me the Carfax before I head down there so i'm not wasting my time if there is a red flag on it. So the chattering will go away when the clutch is pressed in...im assuming that would just need a new clutch not a Flywheel replacement as well? The only modding i've ever done to a car was my 66' mustang that i completely rebuilt about 6 years ago... so new tech... im not really all the up on even though im only 25 lol
The flywheel could potentially need replacing if it has gotten any fractures from excessive heat damage, but the concern is not knowing until your neck deep in the clutch job, and the flywheel is a very expensive one(thanks BMW for the retarded dual mass BS!). But yes, if the clutch is making the noise, disengaging it will make the noise go away.
And if there is no noise, the car drives without slippage and you can get it into each gear fairly smoothly, the clutch should be good to go.
A good test of slippage... get the car in 3rd gear at about 2500RPM and floor the gas pedal. If the clutch is slipping, you'll know then.
A good test of slippage... get the car in 3rd gear at about 2500RPM and floor the gas pedal. If the clutch is slipping, you'll know then.
I don't see anything on the Carfax regarding the Tensioner... there has been normal maintenance performed on it and the dealer bought it at Auction and has had for almost 3 months.. so I have plenty of lee way to bargain them down around 12,500 I think!
Auction? So was it a repo of some sort?
As for the tensioner: If they're right about MINI actually issuing a recall finally, you will be covered whenever you hear the tell tale noise. Or even if you don't, if it's a recall, you're covered anyway!
I would look deeper into why it was at auction to begin with and bargain hard with them. You know they acquired it cheap, and have been sitting on it longer than they would ever want to.
As for the tensioner: If they're right about MINI actually issuing a recall finally, you will be covered whenever you hear the tell tale noise. Or even if you don't, if it's a recall, you're covered anyway!
I would look deeper into why it was at auction to begin with and bargain hard with them. You know they acquired it cheap, and have been sitting on it longer than they would ever want to.
Right.. it looks like it was a lease.. and then listed up for Auction then traded in 2 years later... then the dealer who had it didn't sell it personally and it went to auction where the dealer I'm going to look at it purchased it. Was in Maine then New mexico now Indiana... So good potential for tlaking them down adn getting it for what I want cause if they are listing it at 13,500 not.. they didn't pay more than 7-8 at auction for it.
Having buttons doesn't necessarily mean it has the bluetooth or USB option. My 07 MCS have all the buttons, but nothing happens when you press them. But then again mine is a base model S without any extra options. Bought in June, 58,000 km, $15,500. originally from Florida. Shipped up to Canada.
If there is a USB connection it will be in a cubby hole directly underneath the horizontal row of window and lock switches.
If there isn't, you're SOL, but at least there will be a 3.5mm stereo auxiliary plug on the underside of the cubby hole. You'll have to use your hand to feel where it is. It's not easy to see unless you have really good lighting.
And for power you'll have to use a cigarette lighter -> USB converter. You can get one for $5 ~ $10. Make sure to get a half decent one, not like a $3 one from the dollar mart. I've seen some cheap ones that can burn fuses and short out cabin electrical.
If there is a USB connection it will be in a cubby hole directly underneath the horizontal row of window and lock switches.
If there isn't, you're SOL, but at least there will be a 3.5mm stereo auxiliary plug on the underside of the cubby hole. You'll have to use your hand to feel where it is. It's not easy to see unless you have really good lighting.
And for power you'll have to use a cigarette lighter -> USB converter. You can get one for $5 ~ $10. Make sure to get a half decent one, not like a $3 one from the dollar mart. I've seen some cheap ones that can burn fuses and short out cabin electrical.
My car charger is a lighter adapter so that won't be an issue.... from what im gathering the USB (if there is one) doesn't even allow media to be played through it... it's just to charge a device!?
Looks like a good deal to me. I passed on one that had a great price because it had gone through an Auction. Not that an Auction is any big deal, but in this case the auction was in New York just a month or so after Superstorm Sandy. I am always concerned that they will try and pawn off a flood car. No matter how you slice it, it is always buyer beware.


