Anybody have a "how to" for taking the A/C clutch coil pack out? Looks like my a/c clutch coil pack went out and I don't want to replace the entire condenser.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=233108

Good luck!

 

THANK YOU JRoze!....PERFECT, thanks for taking the time to send this!!!!

 

Not a problem! I spent a few weeks with no A/c and found a few of the "best" threads, imo-that being one-and bookmarked them. I had to do the resistor install. Let us know how it works out!!

 

Question for you: Did you only replace the small resistor under the cover at the electrical connector on the compressor? If so, was the resistor totally fried and what value resistor is needed? Im getting an ohm reading of "1" at pin 87 on the relay plug and think is a completely open (broken??) circuit..... Am I understanding that reading correctly?

 

I replaced the resistor for the low speed fan. I don't think there is a resistor in the compressor(not sure though). I didn't touch the compressor. Since you're getting 1, (i assume on the far left of you reader), it's showing an open circuit. Are you sure the compressor is not engaging when you turn on the a/c? If not, double check you have enough R-134a(freon). Let me know, and sorry it took so long to respond!

 

No worries, thanks for getting back to me. The compressor is not engaging and all the fuses check good. I am HOPING the open ciruit is a fried A/C coil pack and ordered one from the guy on Ebay that others have used. Hopefully I can tear into it soon, Ill post my results....... The compressor just died on the freeway, no indication of a frean leak.

 

With the engine running apply 12 volts to the wire going to the coil pack. If the compressor runs it's not the coil pack. This might save a lot of extra work.

 

Thanks, Ill give that a shot tonight

 

R134a is not freon...freon is r12...
But I strongly urge you to put a set of guages on the ac first....if the psi gets low...it will not turn on due to a pressure as switch....can be a very slow...gradual leak....

 

Thanks for all the input guys....So, I was reading the relay "pins" wrong, after finding the 12v side I was able to narrow down the "condenser coil pack side". I got an ohm reading of 86 wich is very high (shot) according to some of the reading I have done. For fun, I tried jumping the condensor pin directly to the battery and the compressor remained OFF. Im pritty confident it is the clutch coil pack, Ill keep you posted on any progress (could be a while with the kids outta school).

 

If you really want to get technical it should be Freon(R) since it is a brand name for some of DuPont's refrigerants, not just R-12. I assume you know, that it has become the "generic" term for most all refrigerants whether it is DuPont or not. The DuPont "version" of r134 is Suva 134a, but you can walk into any auto store and ask for freon and they will point you to all the 134a cans that has been advertised so much on tv lately (some of the corniest commercials ) Most A/C techs say a system will lose about 3-5% a year. It's not a ton but after my truck was 7 or so yrs old I had to put more in. The air simply wasn't blowing ice cold like it used to, so I topped up the "freon" and it was perfect again and I've done it on other cars as well. I really hope that B.Mank doesn't have to pull apart the compressor. The write up on it is great, but it sure would be easier to just put freon in the system.

 

When someone says they don't want to "replace the whole condesor....cause the clutch coil went out"...it makes me wonder about their full understanding of the ac system....sometimes I just hope folks step back...and take an honest look at their knowledge/skills before tearing into stuff...

 

Ouch!..... Gimme a little credit here. The A/C was blowing ice cold and suddenly started blowing hot air. No "obvious" blown A/C lines, so I looked at "common" R53 A/C problems. After determining the relays were fine, I looked at some post detailing the "Ohm" reading procedure on the compressor side of the relay pin. After finding such a high reading and seeing that others experienced the same problem, I came to a logical conclusion that the clutch coil was the problem. I am happy to report that I replaced the a/c clutch coil today and now she blows ice cold air again (compressor kicks on). Thanks again for the great how-to, it was dead on!!! Thanks for all your input guys, these forums always come through with all the shared experiences.

 

That is GREAT to hear!!!

How long did the fix end up taking you? I was kind of scared of tearing into the compressor and didn't want to do it myself.

 

It took 2 1/2 hrs from taking the tire off to putting the tire back on. The DIY link you sent is dead on (THANKS AGAIN). One of the compressor mounting bolts it tough, you have to do it by feel, cant really see it, pulling the motor back with the strap is a must. Taking the compressor apart was straight forward, I used an air impact to get the center pully (torx) bolt out (it'd be tough to get out without an impact). Mine did not have any "shims", I put it back together how it came apart. I bought the coil pack from the only guy on ebay selling them. Let me know if you have any questions, Its been 100+ degrees out here, It was getting miserable with no A/C!

 

so which relay is for the AC? can you point me to the right relay as there are 4 relays

 

The one with the snow flake looking picture

 

Thank you. I do have a similar problem based on what I have read so far. So you decided to buy from Ebay rather than rackauto that carries the delphi.

So the clutch coil from Ebay, is it "plug-n-play", meaning connectors mate with no mods? any tips would be appreciated. How long did the part take to arrive?

 

After verifying that the coil resistance was reading too high ( in the MOhms range), I went ahead and ordered the coil via Ebay.

While waiting for the coil to arrive, I proceeded and disassembled the AC clutch and removed the clutch coil. What is surprising is I found the wire coming out of the coil as a bare wire with NO insulation at all. Is this the case for those of you who have replaced the clutch coil? See attached pic. I am guessing the fact that there is no insulation contributed to the ultimate failure of the coil due to grounding...or it could be the result (melted insulation)