R50/53 Need a new key fob
Need a new key fob
When I bought my mini used, it only came with the machanic's key. I have been living with it for a couple of months, but really want to just get a key with key fob for a few reasons. First, if my wife wants to drive the car, she has to grab my key. Second, and probably most important, if we happen to lose the key, it will be a huge PITA to go without the car for a while, as what we bought as a fun second car turned into a daily driver since we enjoy it so much!
I have read extremely conflicting information on the r50 keyfob replacement. Some say that there is absolutely no way to buy a used key, say off of eBay, and recode it. Others say that recoding is simple, and that all it takes is pressing a sequence of buttons while turning the ignition. Who am I to believe? Old authentic key fobs go for $50-$80 or more on ebay, which leads me to believe that they can't just be paperweights as some have said, or maybe I am wrong with that assumption. Ideally what I would do is buy two "used" keys on ebay, buy another mechanic's key from mini, get the two mechanic's keys, replace the key (blade) of the "used" keyfob key with the blades of the mechanics keys. At the same time, I am relucatant to just go out and do this, as if it doesn't work I am out the $100+ that I spent on the used keys and stuck having to buy the keyfobs from mini to do what I want. I am pretty sure http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-2-button-remote-key-fob-Valeo-73370847C-tested-209-/330636719918?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4cfb7bf72e is what I would be looking to buy?
EDIT: Looks like the website automatically embedded the pic of the item. That wasn't my intention, per se, but I'll take it!
I have read extremely conflicting information on the r50 keyfob replacement. Some say that there is absolutely no way to buy a used key, say off of eBay, and recode it. Others say that recoding is simple, and that all it takes is pressing a sequence of buttons while turning the ignition. Who am I to believe? Old authentic key fobs go for $50-$80 or more on ebay, which leads me to believe that they can't just be paperweights as some have said, or maybe I am wrong with that assumption. Ideally what I would do is buy two "used" keys on ebay, buy another mechanic's key from mini, get the two mechanic's keys, replace the key (blade) of the "used" keyfob key with the blades of the mechanics keys. At the same time, I am relucatant to just go out and do this, as if it doesn't work I am out the $100+ that I spent on the used keys and stuck having to buy the keyfobs from mini to do what I want. I am pretty sure http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-2-button-remote-key-fob-Valeo-73370847C-tested-209-/330636719918?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4cfb7bf72e is what I would be looking to buy?
EDIT: Looks like the website automatically embedded the pic of the item. That wasn't my intention, per se, but I'll take it!
Last edited by lordofthereef; May 16, 2013 at 02:41 PM.
I can tell you this much, my car came with the original key fob that had a dead battery (04 R53 btw), replaced the battery and have had no luck whatsoever with any of the methods to program the fob to unlock/lock the car. I went to my local MINI dealer and was told that on the 02-04 cars only the dealer is able to program the fobs. I have heard rumor that some locksmiths are capable of doing this but have not yet explored that option. That said, I would be cautious about purchasing used key fobs as you may not be able to reprogram yourself.
I can tell you this much, my car came with the original key fob that had a dead battery (04 R53 btw), replaced the battery and have had no luck whatsoever with any of the methods to program the fob to unlock/lock the car. I went to my local MINI dealer and was told that on the 02-04 cars only the dealer is able to program the fobs. I have heard rumor that some locksmiths are capable of doing this but have not yet explored that option. That said, I would be cautious about purchasing used key fobs as you may not be able to reprogram yourself.
You could move the blade and imoblizer chip to a remote key....then program the keyless entry.
issue is you have ONE imoblizer chip....
Dealer is the ONLY ONE that can add more....
So you could make yours into a remote....
but simply cutting s blank will ONLY LET YOU OPEN A DOOR....just like programinh the keyless entry...to start the car, the ews/imoblizer but be present.
issue is you have ONE imoblizer chip....
Dealer is the ONLY ONE that can add more....
So you could make yours into a remote....
but simply cutting s blank will ONLY LET YOU OPEN A DOOR....just like programinh the keyless entry...to start the car, the ews/imoblizer but be present.
You could move the blade and imoblizer chip to a remote key....then program the keyless entry.
issue is you have ONE imoblizer chip....
Dealer is the ONLY ONE that can add more....
So you could make yours into a remote....
but simply cutting s blank will ONLY LET YOU OPEN A DOOR....just like programinh the keyless entry...to start the car, the ews/imoblizer but be present.
issue is you have ONE imoblizer chip....
Dealer is the ONLY ONE that can add more....
So you could make yours into a remote....
but simply cutting s blank will ONLY LET YOU OPEN A DOOR....just like programinh the keyless entry...to start the car, the ews/imoblizer but be present.
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Like i said,the keyless entry can be reprogramed, and you can even have a new blade cut...same blades as some vw's and landrovers....but that tiny chip...looks like a grain of rice glued into your key, must be present for the car to start....the car learns the code in the chip...and can learn, i thonk, 6....if any more keys are ever added, the ews reader needs to bereplaced before any new keys can be added.....
There was some info about the pre2005 keys being a bit simpler to hack....more of a 4 didget code, compared to the refresh2005+ that used a more advanved ews...but functionly, to both users, the dealer is the only way to add keys that can START the car...
Remember getting these blades cut, buying an ebay key, hacking it appart..is risky, and the savings is kinda minimal....might be fun for a attempt, but i would not mess up my ONLY KEY.
There was some info about the pre2005 keys being a bit simpler to hack....more of a 4 didget code, compared to the refresh2005+ that used a more advanved ews...but functionly, to both users, the dealer is the only way to add keys that can START the car...
Remember getting these blades cut, buying an ebay key, hacking it appart..is risky, and the savings is kinda minimal....might be fun for a attempt, but i would not mess up my ONLY KEY.
Like i said,the keyless entry can be reprogramed, and you can even have a new blade cut...same blades as some vw's and landrovers....but that tiny chip...looks like a grain of rice glued into your key, must be present for the car to start....the car learns the code in the chip...and can learn, i thonk, 6....if any more keys are ever added, the ews reader needs to bereplaced before any new keys can be added.....
There was some info about the pre2005 keys being a bit simpler to hack....more of a 4 didget code, compared to the refresh2005+ that used a more advanved ews...but functionly, to both users, the dealer is the only way to add keys that can START the car...
Remember getting these blades cut, buying an ebay key, hacking it appart..is risky, and the savings is kinda minimal....might be fun for a attempt, but i would not mess up my ONLY KEY.
There was some info about the pre2005 keys being a bit simpler to hack....more of a 4 didget code, compared to the refresh2005+ that used a more advanved ews...but functionly, to both users, the dealer is the only way to add keys that can START the car...
Remember getting these blades cut, buying an ebay key, hacking it appart..is risky, and the savings is kinda minimal....might be fun for a attempt, but i would not mess up my ONLY KEY.
Realistically, I could just get a valet key and use a keyfob alongside it too, which would prevent me from ripping anything apart. Any idea/info on how involved coding the key is? Would I need to have that done professionally or is it something I could do myself.
I found this...
Not sure what generation of mini this applies to though. Is it literally THAT easy?
Instructions
1. Insert your key in the ignition of your Mini Cooper. Turn the key until the interior dashboard lights turn on.
2. Remove the key from the ignition, but do not turn the key to the "off" position. Push the "Unlock" button on your car-key remote. Hold it down.
3. Push the "Lock" button three times. Release the "Unlock" button at the same time you release the "Lock" button for the third time. Repeat the process if you have a second key to program. You must do this within 30 seconds of programming the first key.
4. Insert your key back into the ignition and turn off your car. Your keys are now programmed.
1. Insert your key in the ignition of your Mini Cooper. Turn the key until the interior dashboard lights turn on.
2. Remove the key from the ignition, but do not turn the key to the "off" position. Push the "Unlock" button on your car-key remote. Hold it down.
3. Push the "Lock" button three times. Release the "Unlock" button at the same time you release the "Lock" button for the third time. Repeat the process if you have a second key to program. You must do this within 30 seconds of programming the first key.
4. Insert your key back into the ignition and turn off your car. Your keys are now programmed.
Sent a PM to the OP; here's some valuable links for anybody else who has happened upon this:
https://sites.google.com/site/minian...moving-forward
Also, my thread about repair of the first generation keys:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rbishment.html
Val
https://sites.google.com/site/minian...moving-forward
Also, my thread about repair of the first generation keys:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rbishment.html
Val
Sent a PM to the OP; here's some valuable links for anybody else who has happened upon this:
https://sites.google.com/site/minian...moving-forward
Also, my thread about repair of the first generation keys:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rbishment.html
Val
https://sites.google.com/site/minian...moving-forward
Also, my thread about repair of the first generation keys:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rbishment.html
Val
My thoughts exactly- It's interesting that somebody has figured out this reprogramming, but it's not exactly feasible for everybody to do this out in the field. Myself, I'd have to pull together a cable and PC laptop (we're Mac people and I really struggle with Windoze) and teach myself some programming. Fortunately, I have only ever had to buy a "general" key.
Try this- it's how my wife and I work our keys. We both have early R50's. Primary driver of each car has the remote key for that car; secondary driver of each car has the "general" key. So if I take my wife's car somewhere I have to lock and unlock with the key; if I'm in mine I get to use the remote.
You might find that both of you don't need a remote key yet you will still each have a key to use. Might save a bit of money.
Val
Try this- it's how my wife and I work our keys. We both have early R50's. Primary driver of each car has the remote key for that car; secondary driver of each car has the "general" key. So if I take my wife's car somewhere I have to lock and unlock with the key; if I'm in mine I get to use the remote.
You might find that both of you don't need a remote key yet you will still each have a key to use. Might save a bit of money.
Val
Thought I would update here. The key was $150. I am not sure why I was expecting upwards of $200 per key. Maybe because I recall reading that they also charge for programming, which they don't, at least not here (Herb Chambers MINI of Boston). Buying a used one and having a new basic key cut would have cost me $110, plus the hassle of taking the key apart. What's interesting is I was talking to the guy behind the desk, and he claimed it was easy to recode a used key and that he had done it before for other customers. Maybe this is not "officially" a service the mini dealer is supposed to perform? I'll talk to him more about it and see if they would charge to code that key or not. If not, I might just buy a used key for $40, remove the old blade, but still use the valet key to turn the ignition. This way both of us will have a key fob. Even though I drive the car way more, I am sure the wife is going to claim the shiny new fob as hers! Anyway, they were really helpful, and all they needed was a license and registration to get the ball rolling. Key should be ready for pickup by Wednesday; three day turnaround isn't bad I think!
Thought I would update here. The key was $150. I am not sure why I was expecting upwards of $200 per key. Maybe because I recall reading that they also charge for programming, which they don't, at least not here (Herb Chambers MINI of Boston). Buying a used one and having a new basic key cut would have cost me $110, plus the hassle of taking the key apart. What's interesting is I was talking to the guy behind the desk, and he claimed it was easy to recode a used key and that he had done it before for other customers. Maybe this is not "officially" a service the mini dealer is supposed to perform? I'll talk to him more about it and see if they would charge to code that key or not. If not, I might just buy a used key for $40, remove the old blade, but still use the valet key to turn the ignition. This way both of us will have a key fob. Even though I drive the car way more, I am sure the wife is going to claim the shiny new fob as hers! Anyway, they were really helpful, and all they needed was a license and registration to get the ball rolling. Key should be ready for pickup by Wednesday; three day turnaround isn't bad I think!
If they dont charge for programming, that's amazing. Both dealerships here in Maryland do. I'd like a key fob but for 300 bucks a key... I can handle not getting in via keyless entry.
Do you have an R50 as well? I ask because, if so, they are charging you exactly double what they charged me. If it helps I can upload my receipt (it's in the glove box but I will bring it in tomorrow) so you can have something to show them. Kind of seems like they are gouging you at $300 a key, unless it is one of the newer snazzier models that does more than just lock/unlock (which isn't compatible with my car AFAIK).
My thoughts exactly- It's interesting that somebody has figured out this reprogramming, but it's not exactly feasible for everybody to do this out in the field. Myself, I'd have to pull together a cable and PC laptop (we're Mac people and I really struggle with Windoze) and teach myself some programming. Fortunately, I have only ever had to buy a "general" key.
Try this- it's how my wife and I work our keys. We both have early R50's. Primary driver of each car has the remote key for that car; secondary driver of each car has the "general" key. So if I take my wife's car somewhere I have to lock and unlock with the key; if I'm in mine I get to use the remote.
You might find that both of you don't need a remote key yet you will still each have a key to use. Might save a bit of money.
Val
Try this- it's how my wife and I work our keys. We both have early R50's. Primary driver of each car has the remote key for that car; secondary driver of each car has the "general" key. So if I take my wife's car somewhere I have to lock and unlock with the key; if I'm in mine I get to use the remote.
You might find that both of you don't need a remote key yet you will still each have a key to use. Might save a bit of money.
Val
My impression was I could program mine to unlock with her remote, but I haven't tried yet.
hth
Keith
Do you have an R50 as well? I ask because, if so, they are charging you exactly double what they charged me. If it helps I can upload my receipt (it's in the glove box but I will bring it in tomorrow) so you can have something to show them. Kind of seems like they are gouging you at $300 a key, unless it is one of the newer snazzier models that does more than just lock/unlock (which isn't compatible with my car AFAIK).
Maybe a copy of your receipt can get them to wave that programming but they'll probably just tell me tough ****. lol
Your car has an immobilizer. In German it has the acronym EWS. It uses a 128 bit security system that is energized by a ring in the ignition barrel. It uses obscured and rolling codes. It inhibits the vehicle fuel pump. There are 10 chips programmed into the vehicle security module at the factory. It is not possible to clone or DIY code a new one to the vehicle module.
The vehicle key also houses a radio transmitter. It can unlock and lock the vehicle only. It is possible to learn the transmitter to the vehicle using a sequence.
If you need a new key you can either buy the key you want, or order the cheaper wallet key, peel off the sticker, remove the immobilizer chip and transfer it to an eBay key.
The purse key is about $40, a used remote guts is gonna be $30, a blank eBay key is say $20, key cutting another $15 if you can find someone with the equipment, then you have to modify the key to add the chip and glue it together. For $115 you have a fake key with glued in bits. Better to get the key you wanted in the first place for $150.
The vehicle key also houses a radio transmitter. It can unlock and lock the vehicle only. It is possible to learn the transmitter to the vehicle using a sequence.
If you need a new key you can either buy the key you want, or order the cheaper wallet key, peel off the sticker, remove the immobilizer chip and transfer it to an eBay key.
The purse key is about $40, a used remote guts is gonna be $30, a blank eBay key is say $20, key cutting another $15 if you can find someone with the equipment, then you have to modify the key to add the chip and glue it together. For $115 you have a fake key with glued in bits. Better to get the key you wanted in the first place for $150.
Well, turns out all was not as promised...
I picked up the key yesterday, around 5pm. Despite being promised a call, I never got one, so I called in to see if it had arrived. It did. I was also wanting a piece of trim that I had ordered that had broken off somehow (rubber trim between roof and windshield) and they said they got that in. When I arrived, they found the key pretty quick, but fumbled around for a good twenty minutes for the trim piece. Finally they told me the part came in damaged. Huh? It's a small piece of rubber. And how did it take you twenty minutes to come up with this excuse? I didn't mention in my earlier post, as I thought it was irrelevant, but on my first phone call they told me they had the piece in stock only to tell me they sold it to someone else when I arrived. Hmmm...
So they tell me to go to the service bay, where they tell me they cannot fit me in until Wednesday. Yep, NEXT wednesday. On top of that, they "typically charge one hour of labor for coding keys". Huh? I talked to three different people in parts, one on the phone, a different one when I came in to place the order (since I needed and ID and registration, understandably), and third when I came to pick they key up. All three of them told me it was a $150 charge for the key, coding was free, easy, and quick, no appointment needed. I explained this to the guy, said he would get me "penciled in" for Wednesday first thing in the morning, and that he would see what he could do to waive the fee. He also made it a point to tell me that the parts people don't know anything, so don't trust them. Seriously? Not only are you admitting to complete disorganization between departments within your facility, you are also completely throwing the parts division under the bus? I am not saying the parts division had the correct information, but when three different employees give me identical information, there is obviously something not right here.
Anyway, just thought I would update here. We will see what happens next wednesday. The new key turns the car just fine, it's just the fob that doesn't actually work. At least, for the time being, we each have a working key.
I picked up the key yesterday, around 5pm. Despite being promised a call, I never got one, so I called in to see if it had arrived. It did. I was also wanting a piece of trim that I had ordered that had broken off somehow (rubber trim between roof and windshield) and they said they got that in. When I arrived, they found the key pretty quick, but fumbled around for a good twenty minutes for the trim piece. Finally they told me the part came in damaged. Huh? It's a small piece of rubber. And how did it take you twenty minutes to come up with this excuse? I didn't mention in my earlier post, as I thought it was irrelevant, but on my first phone call they told me they had the piece in stock only to tell me they sold it to someone else when I arrived. Hmmm...
So they tell me to go to the service bay, where they tell me they cannot fit me in until Wednesday. Yep, NEXT wednesday. On top of that, they "typically charge one hour of labor for coding keys". Huh? I talked to three different people in parts, one on the phone, a different one when I came in to place the order (since I needed and ID and registration, understandably), and third when I came to pick they key up. All three of them told me it was a $150 charge for the key, coding was free, easy, and quick, no appointment needed. I explained this to the guy, said he would get me "penciled in" for Wednesday first thing in the morning, and that he would see what he could do to waive the fee. He also made it a point to tell me that the parts people don't know anything, so don't trust them. Seriously? Not only are you admitting to complete disorganization between departments within your facility, you are also completely throwing the parts division under the bus? I am not saying the parts division had the correct information, but when three different employees give me identical information, there is obviously something not right here.
Anyway, just thought I would update here. We will see what happens next wednesday. The new key turns the car just fine, it's just the fob that doesn't actually work. At least, for the time being, we each have a working key.
The car should start and run with the new key as provided. The only coding required will be a learning of the remote to the locks. This can be done DIY.
http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/P...s/ProgKeys.htm
If you have trouble with reception then (a) charge the new battery in the key by taking it on a drive (if you have a 2nd gen key) or replace the battery (1st gen key) and (b) move it closer to the receiver antenna, which is either the rear window heater element or the rear view mirror depending on your vehicle type.
http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/P...s/ProgKeys.htm
If you have trouble with reception then (a) charge the new battery in the key by taking it on a drive (if you have a 2nd gen key) or replace the battery (1st gen key) and (b) move it closer to the receiver antenna, which is either the rear window heater element or the rear view mirror depending on your vehicle type.
Remote Key Re-Initialise - If a key fails to operate remotely, it will have to be re-initialised (all keys in sequence at the same time)
- Get in and “close all doors”
- Turn ignition on & off quickly (no more than 5 seconds) to start the process. Next action must take place within 30 seconds
- First key - hold down button #2 (unlock) while striking button #1 (lock) three times. Release button #2. Confirmed by door lock operation (locks/unlocks).
- Repeat for second key within 30 seconds of first.
- After last key then cycle the ignition on/off to finalise the process (not necessary to start the engine.
- Get in and “close all doors”
- Turn ignition on & off quickly (no more than 5 seconds) to start the process. Next action must take place within 30 seconds
- First key - hold down button #2 (unlock) while striking button #1 (lock) three times. Release button #2. Confirmed by door lock operation (locks/unlocks).
- Repeat for second key within 30 seconds of first.
- After last key then cycle the ignition on/off to finalise the process (not necessary to start the engine.
The car should start and run with the new key as provided. The only coding required will be a learning of the remote to the locks. This can be done DIY.
http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/P...s/ProgKeys.htm
If you have trouble with reception then (a) charge the new battery in the key by taking it on a drive (if you have a 2nd gen key) or replace the battery (1st gen key) and (b) move it closer to the receiver antenna, which is either the rear window heater element or the rear view mirror depending on your vehicle type.
http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/P...s/ProgKeys.htm
If you have trouble with reception then (a) charge the new battery in the key by taking it on a drive (if you have a 2nd gen key) or replace the battery (1st gen key) and (b) move it closer to the receiver antenna, which is either the rear window heater element or the rear view mirror depending on your vehicle type.
Please use the correct terms, since there are two independent functions the key fob performs, the EWS (immobilizer) chip and the remote transmitter for the door locks.
The new key already has the correct code for the EWS inside the chip, this is why you had to supply your VIN and the key had to come from Germany. The car should start and run with the new key because of the EWS chip.
Next you need to add the remote to the remote unlocking, and you do not need a working remote to do begin. You do need a valid EWS chip, which all the keys should have.
The new key already has the correct code for the EWS inside the chip, this is why you had to supply your VIN and the key had to come from Germany. The car should start and run with the new key because of the EWS chip.
Next you need to add the remote to the remote unlocking, and you do not need a working remote to do begin. You do need a valid EWS chip, which all the keys should have.
Please use the correct terms, since there are two independent functions the key fob performs, the EWS (immobilizer) chip and the remote transmitter for the door locks.
The new key already has the correct code for the EWS inside the chip, this is why you had to supply your VIN and the key had to come from Germany. The car should start and run with the new key because of the EWS chip.
Next you need to add the remote to the remote unlocking, and you do not need a working remote to do begin. You do need a valid EWS chip, which all the keys should have.
The new key already has the correct code for the EWS inside the chip, this is why you had to supply your VIN and the key had to come from Germany. The car should start and run with the new key because of the EWS chip.
Next you need to add the remote to the remote unlocking, and you do not need a working remote to do begin. You do need a valid EWS chip, which all the keys should have.
But that's ok, because neither does the dealership, apparently, as they claimed they need to do some computer magic.
Just having a difficult time accepting that it is THIS easy, as they said they couldn't take care of me for another week.Both of our keys turn the ignition on, so that is not a problem. Wife has the car today. I will follow the instructions you posted and report back. Thanks for all of your (and everyone else's) help and input thus far.
Last edited by lordofthereef; May 23, 2013 at 08:54 AM.



