R56 Sticky caliper plague...or is it?
Sticky caliper plague...or is it?
So here's the story.
Got rear brakes done at Midas simply because I don't have the rear caliper tool. They called me said my right rear caliper was sticking. They ordered one. That one wasn't any better they say. They order a second one. Tell me to try it come back and let them check it. I come back after a week tell them I think the wheel is getting hot. They say its fine. A couple weeks later squeaking starts. Squeaks at low speeds when NOT braking. Take it back. They order a third caliper. Drive a couple weeks. Squeak... Take it back and they replace the rotor. A couple weeks. Squeak. Now I have picked up a temperature ir gun. Right rear reads. 220-350 while left rear is 120-160.
Will be taking it back again this weekend. I have heard people going through up to 10 remanufactured calipers before getting a good one. But damn. I'm wondering if mine was ever sticking anyway and it's just a brake flex line.... Talked to a rep at passport mini and he said he could count on one hand how many calipers he's seen that were seized.
I forgot to mention they also broke my brake pad wear sensor.
All that said they have not charged me a penny more for anything then they initially charged. It is just extremely inconvenient to have to keep going back not to mention it is visibly wearing my hawk pads down faster on the right. .
Rant over lol. Give me any thoughts you guys have.
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Got rear brakes done at Midas simply because I don't have the rear caliper tool. They called me said my right rear caliper was sticking. They ordered one. That one wasn't any better they say. They order a second one. Tell me to try it come back and let them check it. I come back after a week tell them I think the wheel is getting hot. They say its fine. A couple weeks later squeaking starts. Squeaks at low speeds when NOT braking. Take it back. They order a third caliper. Drive a couple weeks. Squeak... Take it back and they replace the rotor. A couple weeks. Squeak. Now I have picked up a temperature ir gun. Right rear reads. 220-350 while left rear is 120-160.
Will be taking it back again this weekend. I have heard people going through up to 10 remanufactured calipers before getting a good one. But damn. I'm wondering if mine was ever sticking anyway and it's just a brake flex line.... Talked to a rep at passport mini and he said he could count on one hand how many calipers he's seen that were seized.
I forgot to mention they also broke my brake pad wear sensor.
All that said they have not charged me a penny more for anything then they initially charged. It is just extremely inconvenient to have to keep going back not to mention it is visibly wearing my hawk pads down faster on the right. .
Rant over lol. Give me any thoughts you guys have.
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I'm not sure why you're having the caliper problems, but search Amazon for "TEKTON 5807 5-in-1 3/8-Inch Drive Disc Brake Piston Retractor" so you can DIY next time.

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They said they were going to try a different brand when they replaced it the third time. Kind of thinking that I should tell him to get oem mini ....
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I think I know what the issue is. The two pads are specific to the outside and inside of the caliper for each wheel. When I first installed Hawk HPS pads in my rear I accidently put them in oppositely, and the pads would always be engaged and the rear wheels never rotated freely. As soon as I reversed them on each wheel problem solved! This seems to be unique to the MINI rear calipers and I bet Midas didn't know any better.
I think I know what the issue is. The two pads are specific to the outside and inside of the caliper for each wheel. When I first installed Hawk HPS pads in my rear I accidently put them in oppositely, and the pads would always be engaged and the rear wheels never rotated freely. As soon as I reversed them on each wheel problem solved! This seems to be unique to the MINI rear calipers and I bet Midas didn't know any better.
+1, easy to overlook if you have never done it before.
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I actually have taken the pads out and sanded down the rotors and pads as per hawks instructions and rebed them in. Pads were definitely in correctly from what I looked at. Same as the passenger side. I could try and swap them around and see.
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Clean and grease
I recently installed my Carbotech XP10 pads. On my drive home I smelled my pads dragging. When I initially installed the pads, I just popped out the old ones and installed the new ones. Bad technique apparently.
Before you install your new pads hit the caliper (especially the sliding surfaces where the pads slide back and forth in the caliper) with brake cleaner and remove as much of the grit from the surfaces on which the calipers slide. On those same surfaces, apply high temp brake caliper grease (get it at Advance Auto, etc) - just follow the directions on the grease packet or tube. Be careful not to get grease on the rotor or braking surface of the pads.
My pads were no longer dragging once I cleaned the calipers and greased everything.
Good luck. Might as well try it - needs to be done anyway and it's cheap.
Before you install your new pads hit the caliper (especially the sliding surfaces where the pads slide back and forth in the caliper) with brake cleaner and remove as much of the grit from the surfaces on which the calipers slide. On those same surfaces, apply high temp brake caliper grease (get it at Advance Auto, etc) - just follow the directions on the grease packet or tube. Be careful not to get grease on the rotor or braking surface of the pads.
My pads were no longer dragging once I cleaned the calipers and greased everything.
Good luck. Might as well try it - needs to be done anyway and it's cheap.
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