Hey guys. I was driving tonight and I heard a weird squeaking noise just barely audible so I turned off the climate control and stereo and it seemed to be RPM dependent. I pulled over and popped the hood, but it was too quiet to locate at idle so I decided to baby it on the way home the 2 miles it took to get home. Well about 2 blocks from my house I came to a stop and the car died. Now it won't start up again at all. It cranks, but won't start. As I drove the squeak got worse and worse and I assumed a lifter went bad or something because it certainly wasn't rod or bearing knock and it seemed to be slightly missfiring as if a valve was stuck. After I pushed it into a parking spot on the side of the road I pooped the hood to check the oil and there was none on the dipstick, but I just changed the oil less than 2K miles ago with Royal Purple (mistake I know, but I thought one 5k mile period couldn't hurt it too much) so I'm not sure if it just drank a little (1 qt. maybe) or if it was down real low because the oil light never came on. I know another person on here has had multiple issues with Royal Purple so I'm wondering if he can chime in. This really bums me out because I just got a new exhaust installed. I'm hoping it's just a head problem because I do actually have a spare head in my garage that I can swap in if need be, but that head is 202K miles old so I'll probably want it rebuilt. All in all **** having internal engine problems. This blows.

 

I mean you can find them in good running condition for 5k so assuming a blown motor 1800-2500 dollars I would say pending on how good the car is in exterior shape... They seem to part out very well here in the North East, but just drop an LSX in it lol. It would be 100% in your best interest to rebuild it unless the money for you is tight and not an option.


Royal Purple is notorious for shearing, and loss of weight over 3.5k mile driving duration... no matter what people drive if they are using RP on a performance vehicle or DD. Spun bearings seems to pop up more then any other common issue associated with oil. Not to mention its not a pure synthetic its a blend.

I would never use RP ever again in my vehicles after my STI was at a loss because it failed to lubricate the bearings due to it thinning.

 

where the hell can you find them in good running condition without a million miles for $5K?

and I know I ****ed up on the RP part. Once I had the time in the next 1K miles I was going to put Amsoil in it, but it looks like it's a little too late. I'm really hoping it's not spun bearings and is just cam/valve problems.

 

Here in New England there were plenty of sub $5000 02-04 mini's laying around that have had decent maintenance to them with around 110-145k... I have zero issues buying a car with 100k miles as I am more then mechanically capable and inclined.

Mini's do incredibly well in city area's Look at any major city state and see what you can find. If you need help, I'll put some time and effort here in the NE area if you give me some specifics.

 

You can buy a crated engine at way motor works. I think they run about $5k, but don't quote me on that

 

I wouldn't assume blown motor first off. Running low on oil isn't good, but if you ran dry (somehow?), the light would go on. And if it was seized, it wouldn't crank but not start. Did you check your crank pulley?

 

I wouldn't write it off just yet. It sounds like diagnosis is nowhere near complete. Used engine may be the best way to go if it turns out you lunched it cuz a non running car is worth whatever someone is willing to pay for a car that can't be started and test driven. It's usally close to nothing for cars that can be easily found in running condition.

 

I think I'm going to to check the crank pulley today to see if that's the culprit because that would be awesome, but wouldn't the throw an EML(?) light before it died?

Also my car has 88,000 miles on it right now and they go for anywhere from 7500 up to 9500 here in Milwaukee with those kind of miles. Right now it has an Altat intake, WMW 16% reduction pulley, colder plugs, belt is less than 1k miles old, brake pads all around 500 miles, tyrolsport caliper bushings, Helix wheel stud kit, and a custom exhaust with like 100 miles on it that doesn't drone at all on the highway but wails when you get on it. I have a megan racing header laying around as well as front SS brake lines, two bottles of Motul RBF600, two bottles of Redline MTL, a can of CHF11S, and two cans of ATE super blue. I can also throw in two R83s spray painted white with Dunlop Graspic DS3s with 2K miles on them and the other two are oem silver with garbage Goodyear winters. I can also throw in two R94s with pretty bald Goodyear summer runflats. The bad is that the rally lights on the front are rusted out and need to be replaced, but the brakets just have surface rust, and there is a small patch of rust underneath the left tail light. I also think the control arm bushings could use replacing. One of the R85s has a flat Kumho AST on it, but the other three are fine besides some curb rash. Other than that it's in great shape and I can fully detail and polish it before sale. Car is BRG with a black roof, sport package, heated seats, aux input, auto climate control, pano sunroof, and has one custom painted offset silver stripe down the middle kinda like a Lamborghini Balboni.

Once I get it towed back to my house I'm going to tear into it and start actually diagnosing it because I couldn't see a damn thing last night.

 

Also if I were to buy a crate motor I would be saving up for a really really really long time, like more than a year probably.

 

I think you would be well-advised to spend some money on a diagnosis from a competent mechanic before you 'tear into it.'

 

Having wrenched on motorcycles and cars since I was about 8 and being pretty well versed in MINIs I think it's safe to say I'm a competent mechanic. Not to mention that I can't afford to have another mechanic look at it right now since I'm also paying for college and if another mechanic looks at it there's no point in him diagnosing it by tearing it apart just like I will be doing and then sending the whole car in pieces back my way.

 

Bring it to a dealership, let them take a look it. If you are a do it yourself pay them to diagnose and you do the repairs. Invest in AAA if you don't have it for free tows, be sure to buy the gold or plus for the extra mileage.

No one here will be able to diagnose your problem unless they can physically see the car in person. Seeing that you are in WI, I know for sure I can't help you. Good luck, let us know what you have figured out.

 

Definately check out the crank pulley

 

IMO crate motors are so overpriced from MINI, it is simply not worth it. For US cars, maybe, but for a MINI, just buy a good, used motor IF you need one...
plenty of MINI's get totaled out with lower miles....
But till you KNOW if you need a motor, it is just speculation....
A failed crank damper SHOULD still let the car run for a short time....simply no waterpump, SC, alternator or AC compressor...
The LOW/NO oil is a concern, but the lack of an oil light means DIG DEEPER...might have just been a CLOSE call on the oil quality, and I'll leave the RP oil debate for a different time!!

Remember, even a crate motor is a used motor once you start it!!

 

$5,054.97 +core
for the motor from BMW/MINI from REALOEM.com
and that is a REMANFACTURED...new is NOT available anymore.

 

I have a feeling it wasn't the damper since I was watching my temp gauge and it never went past middle and I still heard the sc under load. If I do end up needing a new motor ill be going used low mileage, but tonight ill be digging deeper and hopeful finding the culprit, I'll keep you guys posted. Also I never really asked for a diagnosis. I simply was wondering first how much a car with a blown motor was worth and then also seeing if anyone had an idea of what to check first. What ever happened to the good old days of hot ridding where people actually fixed their own cars in their own garages instead of taking the easy way out by going to the dealer?

 

Cause I don't like to wrench anymore and I can afford to pay someone.

 

I will be interested in the final diagnosis. 'Weird squeak' followed by a crank/no start just doesn't scream 'blown engine' to me.

 

If you get a chance check Graigslist. Also, https://www.iaai.com/Default.aspx is where insurance companies auction cars.

 

alright, sorry it's been so long since an update, the cord for my phone broke so I haven't been able to upload any pictures.

I pulled the oil pan to inspect the rod bearings. Even before loosing any bolts the connecting rod on #3 was extremely loose. Pulled the bearings from #2 first which are pretty much toasted, but still usable I guess (will be replacing),but when I pulled #3 I was astounded. The bearing was completely smashed and most of it was gone. Should be obvious which ones are which.

I stopped right there to consider my options and haven't gone any further yet. I ordered a set of rod bearings from pelican parts as well as a few other things. I know i'm going to need a replacement crankshaft and maybe replacement rod for #3 as the crankshaft got pretty chewed up from this.

Sorry about the darkness on the photo. when I put it in the light the reflection was too bad to see anything, so I had to do it in the shade.

 

Wow man -- that is really bad. Not sure if it was caused by the royal purple or not - is a bit odd that you ended up with no oil on the dispstick.

Not that you probably cared but how much oil came out when you drained it?

This is a lesson for those who do not check their oil on a weekly basis.

 

It seemed like there was a normal amount that came out when I drained it. Maybe like a half quart to a quart wasn't there. I also might have seen no oil on the dipstick because the car was on a slight incline when I checked it. Not sure if it was caused by the Royal Purple either as I've only had the car for about 2K miles so maybe the previous owner was running around with low oil for a while and the damage is just now showing itself as the coating on the bearings wore thin and the wear was accelerated. All I know is this puts a damper on my cam, injector and tune fund.

 

Problem was you continued to drive it when it was making noise.
PM me ill see if i can help you out.

 

Sniper..any updates? Did you get the car torn apart?