R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 [R50] all kinds of dash lights, power steering died, car won't start

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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 08:09 AM
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[R50] all kinds of dash lights, power steering died, car won't start

Last night I decided I'd replace my serpentine belt. A previous mechanic said it was due for a change, and I also thought replacing it would reduce the buzzing noise under the hood.

Trying to remove the fuel tank vent valve, I found it obstructed by some kind of ground cable. When I tried to disconnect that cable, I broke off the point it was connected to. I have no idea how. I was merely using a socket wrench.

I replaced the belt and took the car for a test drive. Everything seemed OK. While I intended to fix the ground cable, I obviously couldn't right then. I was hoping it was not totally critical and that the car would run fine without it.

Maybe I was wrong. Toward the end of the drive to work, ABS light came on, stereo turned off, windshield wipers became sluggish and, as I pulled into the parking lot, I lost power steering. After parking, car wouldn't start at all. I get no noise other than a growing electrical whine when I turn the key.

So I have three theories:
  1. That ground cable is essential, and without it, electrical issues pop up.
  2. The serpentine belt wasn't applied properly and now the alternator is not functioning.
  3. Battery coincidentally died the after I made these repairs. (By the way I did disconnect the battery before doing any work.)
  4. A combination thereof.
I'm leaning toward 1. I'm stranded now at work and will probably have to have the car towed either back to my house or to a mechanic. Hopefully the former, as I don't want to explain my stupidity to a mechanic.


I've attached a picture of what broke. What can I even do for that? I can't identify what part that is so I don't even know how expensive it is to replace.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 08:43 AM
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Looks like you have the 12/2003- engine support bracket, can tell from the motor mount you have pictured.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/22116763252/ES41678/



You can see in the picture or click on the part, the ground mount is there. I would get fixed to properly charge the battery.

Once you get that fixed , check voltage of your battery. As long as the belt is on and not chirping and spins freely. You should be fine.

Let me know if you can get the ground cable off fine with the broken mount piece.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 09:06 AM
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Thanks for the reply! I feel like an idiot to be honest; I'm thinking that ground cable was just there for good measure and wouldn't affect anything. No idea it would affect the battery charging. The more you know~

I was looking at RealOEM last night for what part I needed to replace; that bracket was in the vicinity of a part I recognized, but the drawing simply did not look like what I had.

My MINI's manufacture date is 03/04, so a 12/03 bracket seems about right, but either way I know what I should be looking for.

Here's the thing: right now I'm stranded at work. Do you think maybe a jumper cable from the bracket to the point where the ground cable was attached would get me around until I replaced the bracket? Or at least get me home without a tow? I'm sure a coworker has a cable I could borrow, or could give me a lift to the nearby autozone on break for me to get one.

Still blows my mind I was able to snap that off... It took a breaker bar and the strength of my entire body to crack the lug nuts off of the passenger tire, and I broke this with one arm. Can't seem to DIY anything without some kind of casualties.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 11:05 AM
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So upon further testing, that ground cable is the difference between the car starting or not starting at all. I got a small C-clamp from Sears to hopefully hold it in place until I get a new bracket. I'll probably be checking it before every trip to make sure it's secure.

My guess is that the cable which was half-assedly attached before I left, came loose during the drive to work, and the car slowly lost power.

I would have never guessed that cable, being separate from the battery, would be so important... Lesson learned.

Other lesson is to save DIY stuff for the weekends where I have plenty of time to be patient
 

Last edited by Eleo; Feb 20, 2013 at 11:10 AM.
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Eleo
So upon further testing, that ground cable is the difference between the car starting or not starting at all. I got a small C-clamp from Sears to hopefully hold it in place until I get a new bracket. I'll probably be checking it before every trip to make sure it's secure.

My guess is that the cable which was half-assedly attached before I left, came loose during the drive to work, and the car slowly lost power.

I would have never guessed that cable, being separate from the battery, would be so important... Lesson learned.

Other lesson is to save DIY stuff for the weekends where I have plenty of time to be patient

Sounds like that will work in the short term. Let me know if you need anything else.

Yes the weekend is a great time for DIY, that way you don't have to rush the job. Good luck and I hope you get things taken care of.

Let me know if you need anything else.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 01:34 PM
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that cable is what completes the circuit from the alternator back to the battery!

Remember that automobiles use the body of the car as the 'negative' path to complete the circuit. That cable provides the reliable connection from the engine block to the body - the ground for whole deal. It was probably just laying against the body enuf to allow you to start the car and then vibrated off. You were then running off the battery Until that died.

When I first bought my 79, some days it would start and other days I'd get in and turn the key and nothing. Come back an hour later and it might start. But it would start from a jump every time. I changed the battery checked all the ignition wires and and and.

And then one day a smart person checked my engine grounding strap which connected to the UNDERSIDE of a bracket so that you did not see the actual nut holding the cable. The cable was hanging on the stud with no nut. Sometimes it made enuf connection - sometimes not. Just opening and closing a door could make enuf vibration to change things. Once started the vibration also kept 'just enuf'

I tightened that nut with a good lock washer and the problem has not returned in 8 years!

You don't REALLY have to replace that mount. A quick stab by someone that can weld aluminum would reattach that broken nub, or attach a stud to replace it (I'm guessing that part is an aluminum casting). Or put a big connector on the end of the strap, loosen that top bolt on the mount and get the wire to connect there. Heck you could just go the the body part - red metal - right there ... grind away the paint to get bare metal. Drill a hole and attach the strap with a sheet metal screw. Less pretty but perfectly functional!
 
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