R50/53 Outmotoring brake set
Outmotoring brake set
Good day everyone in Mini land!
So my '05S needs some new stopping power and I'm looking at Outmotoring's Brembo set up with drilled/slotted rotors and their recommended pads. Sold as a set for around 450.00, is this a pretty good deal? I don't race the car but here in WV we have tons of steep hills and twisties to drive on an my old OEM rotors are just shot. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to all and have a great day today.

So my '05S needs some new stopping power and I'm looking at Outmotoring's Brembo set up with drilled/slotted rotors and their recommended pads. Sold as a set for around 450.00, is this a pretty good deal? I don't race the car but here in WV we have tons of steep hills and twisties to drive on an my old OEM rotors are just shot. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to all and have a great day today.
Is that 450 for all or per wheel? If for all its real good. An upgrade in either braking or suspension is always good. I find too often the focus for individuals is on hp not realizing you can only go as fast as you can stop.
Stage 1
Try holding a lower gear on the down slopes - saves the brakes. The auto/cvt will also engine brake if a lower gear is manually selected. Lots of drivers don't know that one. (Sorry if I'm showing Granny how to suck eggs).
drilled and slotted on street car is just for looks. Save your money and just get plain face rotors they last longer and are quiet.
We have a great brake package with EBC redstuff pads and our WMW rotors.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/wmwredbrakepackageR53.html
We have a great brake package with EBC redstuff pads and our WMW rotors.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/wmwredbrakepackageR53.html
Comparisons?
drilled and slotted on street car is just for looks. Save your money and just get plain face rotors they last longer and are quiet.
We have a great brake package with EBC redstuff pads and our WMW rotors.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/wmwredbrakepackageR53.html
We have a great brake package with EBC redstuff pads and our WMW rotors.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/wmwredbrakepackageR53.html
While I'm not a geek trying to look cool with drilled/soltted rotors, it just seems to me they would stay cooler than one large piece of rotating iron with only cooling vents?
Prove your rotors worth to me an I'll consider them over drilled/slotted, though I have read that non-drilled rotors do seem to have a bit more stopping power. Thanks again.Last edited by wvmtnbiker; Jan 20, 2013 at 04:38 PM. Reason: Corrections
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Downshifting...
I guess I am one to talk b/c I only put about 1000 miles on Twiggy last year. But I am all about really good tires and really good brakes--they both seem to go along with a strong motor with performance add ons.
Thanks. I think I'll go and try the "egg" thing.
Prove your rotors worth to me an I'll consider them over drilled/slotted
OUCH - I think he was saying don't pay more for drilled and slotted cuz you don't need it.
So if you buy them it is pure bling bling . . . which I agree with 100%
and last time I checked an abused tranny was a WEE bit more $$ to fit than pads and rotors . . .
p.s. physics .. does not drilling and slotting decrease the surface area the pads can grab? So the question is the need to cool and/or out gas. And this is a problem on a street car when?
OUCH - I think he was saying don't pay more for drilled and slotted cuz you don't need it.
So if you buy them it is pure bling bling . . . which I agree with 100%
and last time I checked an abused tranny was a WEE bit more $$ to fit than pads and rotors . . .
p.s. physics .. does not drilling and slotting decrease the surface area the pads can grab? So the question is the need to cool and/or out gas. And this is a problem on a street car when?
Prove your rotors worth to me an I'll consider them over drilled/slotted
OUCH - I think he was saying don't pay more for drilled and slotted cuz you don't need it.
So if you buy them it is pure bling bling . . . which I agree with 100%
and last time I checked an abused tranny was a WEE bit more $$ to fit than pads and rotors . . .
p.s. physics .. does not drilling and slotting decrease the surface area the pads can grab? So the question is the need to cool and/or out gas. And this is a problem on a street car when?
OUCH - I think he was saying don't pay more for drilled and slotted cuz you don't need it.
So if you buy them it is pure bling bling . . . which I agree with 100%
and last time I checked an abused tranny was a WEE bit more $$ to fit than pads and rotors . . .
p.s. physics .. does not drilling and slotting decrease the surface area the pads can grab? So the question is the need to cool and/or out gas. And this is a problem on a street car when?
In addition to removing braking surface area, drilling rotors has proven to create stress cracks near the holes which can be quite dangerous.
If you want really good street brakes get a set of nice solid rotors, EBC RedStuff pads, brake caliper solid bushing set, good brake fluid, and if you have the extra cash maybe a set of braided stainless lines.
Apologies
Ouch was not intended here. Proving worth is education. I certainly meant no harm. There are so many thoughts on drilled vs solid that I thought I would just ask. I know that drilling incorrectly can be dangerous for sure and I understand physics of gas build up--which I will never experience b/c I would never get them that hot. So let me rephrase my question: based upon bling factor as it now relates to my driving, would the cross drilled rotors in question be Ok to run? I have regular solid rotors now and they stop easily and quietly enough. But they are just plain looking. Does this help any?
Like everyone, I really don't want to throw my money away on something that looks cool but could actually affect the braking dynamics of the car. Now that would be bad.
So I'm going to take the majority of everyone's advice here b/c I figure an old dog like me can always learn a new trick or two. So fire away brake gurus, I'm a listening!
To the chap with the brake link to his site: I appreciate your advice. You need not to prove anything. Experience speaks volumes kind sir!
Like everyone, I really don't want to throw my money away on something that looks cool but could actually affect the braking dynamics of the car. Now that would be bad.
So I'm going to take the majority of everyone's advice here b/c I figure an old dog like me can always learn a new trick or two. So fire away brake gurus, I'm a listening!
To the chap with the brake link to his site: I appreciate your advice. You need not to prove anything. Experience speaks volumes kind sir!
Thanks
I agree with this completely. The only benefit of slotting the rotors is to remove gasses which form from extreme heat conditions which will pretty much never happen on the street.
In addition to removing braking surface area, drilling rotors has proven to create stress cracks near the holes which can be quite dangerous.
If you want really good street brakes get a set of nice solid rotors, EBC RedStuff pads, brake caliper solid bushing set, good brake fluid, and if you have the extra cash maybe a set of braided stainless lines.
In addition to removing braking surface area, drilling rotors has proven to create stress cracks near the holes which can be quite dangerous.
If you want really good street brakes get a set of nice solid rotors, EBC RedStuff pads, brake caliper solid bushing set, good brake fluid, and if you have the extra cash maybe a set of braided stainless lines.
The discussion between drilled and solid is interesting. I remember an article Motor Trend published titled, "22 Cars that Stop from 60 MPH in Less Than 100 Feet" Out of the cars listed all except 4 had drilled rotors. The top 5 performers all had drilled rotors. I wonder if these cars would have performed better if they had solid rotors.
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