My car is a Sep 2006 build MCS so was one of the first 100 built.

Seeing as it has had good use although now only on 68k miles, I am looking at doing all the mods I have been planning.

Not long after having the car (not 1st owner by the way) I got Bilstein PSS10's, Hotchkis rear control arm and competition sway bar, Eibach adjustable top mounts, milltek TBE, FJCW airbox, JCW Brembos and OZ Ultraleggeras with non run flats fitted. Also Helix short shift and M7 J Brace.

So with proper cornerweighting set up handling has been transformed but now I need to tackle all the niggles and sort out power and reliability.

I lose a little coolant so suspect thermostat and waterpump. One of my top mounts bearing is shot so it makes a lovely knocking.

Previous work I have done on the car is simply refitting the front bumper for a new one. Mini scuffed this when it went in for timing chain under goodwill so am replacing it again. Car also had decoke under goodwill. I also do my own oil changes, seafoaming etc and have removed airbox to upgrade and done the OEM noisemaker delete myself.

So my mods list is as follows:

JCW Turbo
JCW Exhaust Manifold
Okada Plasma Coils
JCW Spark Plugs
Evolve FMIC
New Downpipe Clamp as old one scuffed when original coilover setting was too low.
Revised Cam Cover with better pressure release valve
Cam Cover Gasket
NM Eng Lower Engine Mount
Powerflex Rear Wishbone Bushes
Quaife ATB
Redline Gearbox Oil
Dimple Magnetic Sump Plug for Gearbox
JCW Dual Mass Flywheel
JCW Clutch Kit
KAV Motorsport Clutch Plate to replace the JCW plate as have heard good reports from R53 users here in the UK
Top Mounts (Eibach copies from ebay seller)
Water Pump
Thermostat
Goodridge Rear Brake Hoses
Brake Fluid
Coolant
Screen Wash
Oil Catch Cans

I lose screen wash somewhere near the right hand side of the car as you look at it front on so feel a hose is at fault from when I removed bumper last time.

There seems to be plenty of DIY guides for most things and I feel if you are logical and not force anything and know where everything comes from (labelling helps)then as long as you take your time most things are possible.

I would obviously leave Quaife and Clutch install to the professionals who can do polybushes whilst subframe is out. Everything else I hope to acomplish.

Just hoping if anyone has attempted any of this can warn me of any pitfalls before hand as once my car is off teh road (daily driver) it is in that state till I sort it out !!!!

 

I would not get the JCW clutch. The dual mass flywheel is no different. I personally get OS Giken. Anyway all of that work you should be able to complete yourself if you have any mechanical know how. I am in the process of upgrading my turbo and manifold and applying meth injection.

 

Already got all the parts. JCW DMFW is a different part number to the MCS variant.

JCW 21207583195
MCS 21207575069

Wanted to keep OEM feel and many have proven the KAV Motorsport R53 clutch plate over here at circa 240bhp so thought it the best option for me as do not want an OS Giken, Spec, Competition Clutch etc

 

Why move to JCW spark plugs? Has your tuner advised this? If you're moving on to a JCW turbo or some kind of hybrid setup you need a proper ECU tune to get the most potential out of the setup. You could dog around town without a tune, but if it were my car it would be straight to the dyno facility after doing a turbo swap even if it's a minor change to the guts of the turbo. Heck you're in the UK so you could just drive to Evolve's shop. I am envious!!! With respect to DIY'ability, if you put the front bumper in service mode it's a lot easier to work on the front of the engine. If you've worked on other engines before I would say it's familiar practice of removing a turbo and exhaust manifold. If you've never done it I would say take it to someone to do it or have a friend that's mechanically handy and familiar with engines & cleanliness help you.

Are you inferring that you're going to redesign the valve cover like gutting the OEM PCV valves and using your own? If you're saying "yes"... good luck because you'll be the first. The OEM system works fine and my only gripe is that the PCV and breather valves are not serviceable if they start to malfunction. I would steer away from this. This screams guinea pig disaster. A screwed up PCV system can lead to blown engine seals. A big pain in the *** for a science project IMO.

I would swap the NM-engineering torque arms for BSH. The NM inserts push out of the mount over time whereas the BSH unit is complete assembly with a solid urethane insert. It's worth the extra money.

Flywheels, clutches, and diffs are not typically very DIY friendly on a FWD car. A lot of things to mess up here. I too would say go with OS Giken if you want the absolute best but that's just my opinion.

How many miles did you have on your original Eibach mounts before they started knocking? Why replace crap with ... crap?

The cooling system components aren't so bad. The main thing is that you bleed the system correctly upon refilling the coolant or else you'll have problems with trapped air bubbles in the cooling system.

Good luck!

 

Thanks.

Most in the UK fit JCW over MCS plugs as they have a better heat range. Some tuners also recommend for mods and I think mini also do themselves.

Evolve tuned similar spec to mine near 290bhp so hoping somewhere near that is achievable. Gave them my spare MCS Turbo to make a hybrid and then my JCW Turbo and they got better gains with the JCW Turbo.

Mount has gone on one bearing through bad roads here in UK. Others have had similar so like for like change is not a problem for me.

Valve cover is the newer MCS one with better release valve compared to what was fitted on early spec cars. Supposed to help so makes sense to fit at same time as OCC and working in that area.

Happy to bolt and unbolt stuff so whilst bumper is off might as well do intercooler, turbo and manifold, valve cover, occ and refit my j brace which I have left off since noisemaker delete. May as well fit the NM bush seeing as I already have it and did now want more vibration as seen from the BSH mount.

Most who have fitted the JCW Turbo see benefits straight away. Yes a remap is best but remap is the last thing I am getting done to tie up all my changes and make the best oou of them.

 

Everything but installing a Quaife is pretty simple bolt on. The Quaife requires removing the transmission and splitting the case. Pressing new bearings onto the diff, and reassembly.

Since you have the tranny out anyway for the clutch, it shouldn't be too bad if you have a press.

But, if it were me, I sell everything, and buy a JCW. If you ever go to sell your car, you will have a VERY small pool of people that would interested in a modded to the gills old Mini, vs a true, JCW. Plus the engine internals on the JCW are a better starting point.

 

This is also their disposable development R56. It's just a matter of time before one of those pistons says "***** you." I think Imran has been running his own R56 like this for quite a few miles but man, I'd hate to be running around everywhere worrying if I was 'bout to blow

 

Well as weather is getting worse here in the UK today only managed to run engine cleaner in with my old oil, drain, and proceed to remove valve cover and replace spark plugs. Hate these winter months for lack of light so have to torque up thespark plugs when I can find my torque wrench and then proceed to fit the new valve cover and my Okada plasma coils.

Not forgetting to refill with Castrol Edge 0w40 as moving away from 0w30 and 5w30 now that I am doing my own changes every 6k miles.

Everything else will have to wait as snow is forecast.