So.. You know that set screw on the rotors? The the one that "helps" you align the rotor to the hub? (which is super easy without it, by the way) Well.. Thing wouldn't come out. At all. Drilled. Torched. Beat on with various hammers. Killed 4 titanium drill bits trying to get this thing out. It's made of magic or unicorns or Jesus powers or something. Because today, I proved that even after abusing the hell out of screw, it's still STRONGER than the rotor.

After this happened, the screw was STILL firmly planted in the hub.



Like I said.

 

How did the rotor break like that?

 

Yanking on the rotor, trying to break the screw head off.

 

WOW!

so you got 3 more corners to do

what's the plan?

want some ideas - besides plastic explosives?

 

We got the other ones finished up just fine with the drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads.

 

Have you tried heating the screw till red then using an impact to remove it. I have always been able to remove them with this method. If you are concerned with replacing the screw you can use a die grinder with a cut off wheel to cut the head off. Using a torch to cut the head off will work too.

 

I don't have an impact. =/ Right now as the car sits, there are none of those screws on it, just the wheel lug nuts holding them on.

 

I would advise you not to do this again on the others or you will risk frying the wheel bearings.

Try this as it worked wonders for me when I had the same problem. This is not the normal WD40
http://www.wd40specialist.com/products/penetrating-oil/

Let it soak and do it again. Also it helps to have an impact screwdriver

 

Do you have a cutting head for your torch

 

Thank you for the advice. I didn't even know there were different flavors of WD-40.

Impact screwdriver. I'll have to add that to the tools-to-be-purchased list. I am a little new to this whole "purchase a car and then swap out all the parts it came with" thing.

 

No.

 

Sears has them under $20.00 so does Autozone and most auto parts stores.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...r-Set/_/N-25dw

Trust me, this will work. Don't torch them. You will have bigger problems and expenses later. Just my opinion from seeing it happen too many times.

 

I'll put it on the list! Braminator, you are super helpful. Does NAM have rep or +1 or anything?

 

I laughed when I saw this, always has to be one that does not come out, my front passenger side had the same prob. but I finally got it off by drilling,something I do not want to do again and when I replaced the rotor I did not even replace the screw because its not even needed.

 

I had the same experience with my drivers side. It was impossible to get off then it eventually stripped. Had to drill it out, I was able to get most of the bolt out but not all. Can that be an issue with the hubs rotation? I would think not as there is normally a whole bolt in there.

Anyways yeah, pain in the *** when they are on there. I didn't use them after replacing the rotor.

 

On both my MINI and my Bimmer, from new, I always make it part of the spring/fall tune- up to take the brakes off, clean and grease the sliders and replace the bolts with anti-seize on them. Every year. Never have a problem getting them off, even living in the snow belt. I never use my brakes (well almost never) so pushing the pistons back and forth also helps keep them from freezing up

 

Harbor Freight sells a cheap as hell impact screw driver that will do the job just fine. They are also a must need for Honda's that are by the shore, and haven't been off the vehicle since the Thong Song was a hit lol. If your looking for a great penetrating oil, go with PB Blaster, or my favorite that has not lost a rust fight yet, Freeze Off by CRC, that's some of the best stuff. Hit the screw for about 10-15 seconds with it, let it sit for 5 minutes, hit with impact, it'll come off like it was hand tightened on. When you go to put the set screws back on, use a very light dab of anti-seize for the next time.