I've been eyeballing some sway bars for my 2002 R53 MCS and I'm curiosu to know from the perspective of any of you dual purpose "auto-x & Daily driver" type guys, what sway bar combo is worth the purchase?

I know in my miata bigger is NOT better, in fact for auto-x and canyon drives a stock rear is perfect with a beefy front. The mini has a bit of slop and body roll factory that I'd like to clean up but not over-rigidify the thing. It'll probably depend on a suspensio setupas well, I'm sure, but assume a mid-budget coilover setup.

Thanks!

 

First step...look at yours...MANY older mini's have an aftermarket one already installed....factory one is black, and not adjustable.....MOST addon ones have 2 or 3 holes per side to adjust...so typically, depending on you likes, i go soft for winter, the middle for street, and stiffist for "other".
The size of what you pick depends....if you may want camber plates, go smaller, but if you will never get them, you can go s bit bigger if you want...
Some folks love the feel of a huge swaybar, but for me it is about balance and finesse....and not getting snap oversteer from having to let off on the gas on an on ramp or icey/sandy curve....

 

The front swaybar will not be a fun project. I just did that job, with a lift at work I didnt enjoy dropping the subframe down to remove the swaybar brackets. I will have a write up soon on how to do it. Still putting the pictures together.

 

Here is the front sway bar install instructions.

Tools needed for subframe removal:
8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 16mm sockets
Socket extension
¼ drive and/or 3/8ths drive ratchet, ½ inch drive ratchet and/or long breaker bar
17mm open end wrench, (optional 16mm ratcheting box end wrench)
Phillips screw driver
Ball joint removal tool (BMW 32-3-090 or equivalent, NAPA KD3916 used)
Torque wrenches capable of 7 to 74 ft-lb range


Tools for anti-sway bar installation:
18mm socket, ratchet
Long breaker bar or impact wrench
Torque wrench 122 ft-lb capable


Equipment:
Automotive hydraulic jack
Vehicle stands

Remove the reservoir bracket and bend the heat shield upward to allow the reservoir to pass downward; it is easier to perform these steps before lifting the vehicle.


Place the vehicle on stands and remove the front wheels. Remove the lower steering shaft universal joint pinch bolt with a 13mm (ratcheting box end or ratchet & socket).


Remove the power steering fan and unplug the connector.


Remove the bumper cover and bumper. Although this can be done solo it helps to have assistance holding the bumper cover while unplugging the light fixtures and thermometer.


Unscrew this bolt connecting the radiator support to the crush tube.


Unbolt the crush tube; this is where a long breaker-bar or long handled ½ inch drive ratchet (recommended) come in handy.


Disconnect the drop link from the swaybar. The tie rod can get in the way for access with a ratchet so, either use a ratcheting box end wrench, disconnect the link’s upper mounting point first, or pop the tie rod ball joint. The sequence is not critical, but removal is.


Take the wheel speed sensor wire off its perch.


Undo the tie rod nut.


Pop the steering tie rod ball joint; be careful here because energy will be released violently so never operate a ball joint removal tool overhead.


Unbolt the outer ball joint bracket to steering knuckle.


Remove the lower engine vibration damper mount bolt.


Place the lift pad from an automotive jack under the round hole in the center of the subframe and raise the pad till it can support.


Remove the forward subframe mounting bolts.



Remove the other subframe bolts.


Lower the subframe enough to access the power steering connectors and unplug them.


Continue to lower the subframe, go slowly making sure the power steering reservoir passes freely.


Roll the subframe from under the vehicle while continuing to monitor the power steering reservoir.


Unbolt the swaybar/control arm bushing bracket.


Install the new swaybar/stabilizer bar and torque to 122 ft-lb.


Install in reverse.

Torque values:
Subframe 74 ft-lb
Tie-rod ball joint 38 ft-lb
Outer ball joint to steering knuckle 41 ft-lb
Swaybar end link 41 ft-lb
Crush tube to subframe 74 ft-lb
Bumper to modular front end/crush tubes 16 ft-lb
Lower engine vibration damper 74 ft-lb
Power steering fan to pump bracket 14 ft-lb
Steering shaft universal joint pinch bolt 16 ft-lb
Control arm bushing bracket to body, replace bolt, 44 ft-lb + 90 degree turn

 

With the MINI you need to change the roll stiffness balance and increase it slightly in the rear to improve the handling. My MCS is my daily driver that sees plenty of auto-x duty during the summer months and a few track days. I run in DS class and because of changes in the rules in 2012 I was able to change the rear bar. I went with a hollow 25.5mm bar that I run on the soft setting for the street and full stiff for auto-x.

http://www.waymotorworks.com/h-sport...-sway-bar.html

I love the changes it has made. On the street there really isn't much difference, but for auto-x it allows me to get the back end to 'come around' on demand.

Forget the 'mid-budget' coil overs and get yourself a set of adjustable Koni Sport or Koni FSD shocks with the stock OEM springs and they will go a long way to getting rid of any 'slop'. Another cause of 'slop' is worn front control arm bushings. One way to check them is to put a socket wrench on a wheel lug and lift up and push down, if the wheel moves forward and back they need changing. I highly recommend these, and get them pre-pressed, a big time saver.

http://www.waymotorworks.com/powerfl...shing-kit.html

 

On an R53 the Hsport Comp rear sway bar is the best option. for the typical MINI putting it on the Middle setting is ideal. If you need more for autoX or track days you can stiffen it up to the hard setting.

The miata being RWD is a totally different car.