How well do upgraded rotors, lines, pads and fluid stack up to a full on big brake system like Stoptechs? The stock set up is deffinitely lacking on the MCS for doing serious duty, but I would rather not have to run spacers and I would like to be able to stick with my stock wheels if I so desired. Does anybody have any insite on this?

 

I think the first thing you should think about is what are you going to use your MCS for- street vs autocross vs track and how much of each.

For street and autocross monthly with a little track then a stage one upgrade would be fine.

If you are going to do track more than twice a year then stage 2 brake upgrade and or big brake is possible.

You do not need big brakes for street and autocross monthly.

See webbmotorsports or helix13 for their stage one upgrades for brakes.

Power slot rotors are good and durable
various brake shoes are good from Mintex redbox (street and autrocross) to EBC green (less dust) or red to Ferodo DS 2500 are good for track and autocross.

Stainless steel brake lines are good but pedal pressure and feel increases- so some like to keep the stock brake lines and just upgrade brake fluid to something like ATE super blue or equivalent DOT4 fluid.

Remember you need to upgrade front and back brakes not just add big brake kit for fronts. Also some big brake kits will need 17" rims to fit.

 

Doubt I'll be doing any autocross, but lots of canyon work and some track days.

So it's necessary to do the rear brakes along with the fronts on the MCS? Based on experience from my Audi days and the MCS's weight distrobution I wasn't too concerned with the rear brakes.

 

Both brake systems have strong enough calipers to squeeze the rotor (and thus the wheel itself) so it stops turning .i.e., the tire would skid or slide if you did not have ABS.

Or to say it differently, assume the Stoptech calipers can squeeze at 4,000 lbs of applied force, and the stock rotors can queeze with a force of 3,000. (I'm making the numbers up, the real ones would be much higher ). The pounds of applied 'squeezing force' would measure the capability of the two types.

Given the weight (mass) of the car is constant, you would need only (let's say) 1400 lbs of brake force to lock up the wheel.

Bigger brakes will make no difference in stopping distances. You just need 'enough'; more powerful is 'overkill.'

The only variable is going to be the 'grip' and contact patch of the tires.

BUT If you are running high speed laps with a lot of braking where Heat becomes a factor, a larger rotor will have more surface area and will dissipate heat better and thus prevent fade. That's why race cars have bigger then usual rotors. There is also going to be room for more 'pots' (pistons that apply the force) on the larger rotor, but on a Mini this is going to be a lot of overkill.

With stock rotors under normal, even spirited street conditions, you can probably eliminate fade by upgrading to a brake fluid with a higher boiling temperature.

Hope this helps.