The previous and original owner of my MINI had vinyl graphics on the car for about 10 years. You can see what is left after removing the graphics. Is there any chance that this can be buffed out and can I do this myself?

 

Did you try buffing it out with rubbing compound? I would try that first.

 

Can you tell me a little more about the rubbing compound? Does it take the clear coat off?

 

From what I know, there are a huge vareity of rubbing compounds. The one I have right now is clear coat safe made by turtle wax. I use them every six months to remove oxidation and water deposits.

Generally, you shoud be careful with rubbing compound as most of them if not all, on the market are abrasive at some level.

So if you do buy one, make sure to study it first so you can correctly apply it.

 

The first rule of thumb in auto detailing is "use the least aggressive method to get the job done". In all probability, the paint not covered by the decals is faded and the the paint where the decals were located is brighter. Try using a mild polish in the most inconspicuous area. If you have access to and the skill to use an orbital buffer, this will speed up the process. Try more aggressive polish/es until you achieve the desired results, then attack the entire vehicle with that polish. Once you've done that, then bring the paint gloss back by using successively finer polish, then wax....and, to answer your question, you can "burn" through the clear coat so don't get carried away and create an even bigger problem. In other words, know when to say "when".

 

The paint on the body of the car is faded, but since the stripes blocked the sun for last 10 yrs it's darker ( Original color ) where the stripes were. What you have there is ghost striping.

Absent a repaint, or putting new vinyl where the old was, not anything you can do as the effected paint is under the clear coat....

 

A good quality random orbital polisher makes it pretty near impossible to burn. You would really have to use very coarse polish in order to do so. I agree with the previous poster. A repaint is in order.

 

First, I think this would have been much more appropriate for Detailing 101.

I know you asked if you could do it yourself, but this is not a place where I would start. What I would do is find the #1 Yelp detailer in my area and ask them. They'll be able to put eyeballs (and maybe other equipment) on it and let you know their advice (for free!). This might be a case where a professional paint restoration and detailing would have superior results. Best of luck, either way, I'd love for you post a picture the results afterwards.

 

Thanks for your responses.
I tried some rubbing compound today, but it did not touch it. (Turtle Wax brand w/o a buffer). I like the idea of finding a professional opinion (for free), but I am not too interested in spending money for repainting. Right now I'm saving for mechanical repairs.

 

That's some serious color differential!
IMO, especially if it covers a large area, your only chance of positive results is to use an orbital buffer. I'm a Meguiar's fan, so I'd start w/#2 in a small area and see how it does. You can start w/#9, but I don't think that will be aggressive enough.

 

X2- rubbing compound is only a surface treatment, and will nicely polish your clear coat. That problem is a faded base coat, and short of stripping the clear coat and then trying to polish out the base coat ( low probability of success, and very labour intensive $$$) your options are a respray, or a full or partial film wrap.

 

How about a complete plastidip respray, fairly cheap and you can get a new color

 

Spot on. Polish won't change paint color. It is sun bleached.

 

The paint / clearcoat NOT covered by the stripes or decals is oxidized due to UV rays and other airborne elements that ultimately affect even the finest automotive finishes. Paint is just like your skin- it has to breathe and slough off dead cells in order to look fresh; the "dead cells" in the case of your paint is oxidation, which needs to be removed via a professional-quality "stepped" or sequential polishing system (aggressive > ultra fine) & random orbital polisher; after removing the "dead cells" or oxidation, you then finish with a high-quality carnauba wax or synthetic sealant, just like you put lotion on dry skin to "heal" it; I like the synthetics because they are more durable and typically easier to use; and results are outstanding in my opinion; in addition I would say synthetics better withstand the road salts and snow melt chemicals used during the winter, at least here in Utah. With some patience and attention to detail you should be able to minimize (remove) the difference between the covered / non-covered paint areas.

 

I paint. As many mentioned already, there is no easy fix for sun faded base. Repaint is in order. Any polishing you do is limited to clear coat that has no color hence no effect on color differential.